Just got back from the Himalaya having taken a friend with terminal cancer for one last Great Adventure. She had never been out of the U.S. so I took some money out of an old IRA and funded the trip for both of us. Since she has lung cancer, we did not go any higher than 12,300' which was a loop thru Pangboche and then Phortse, which is the phenomenally picturesque potato-growing settlement completely terraced by rock fences. Basically we went about 2/3 the way into Everest Base Camp.
The monsoons were supposed to be gone by October, but 2 cyclones were hanging around India and Thailand. We got rained on for the first 3 days. Luckily as we got to Tyangboche Monastery and Debouche' the weather finally broke and we were finally able to see Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and the very treacherous looking Ama Dablam.
The trail was the hardest either of us ever hiked, basically rock and very steep rock steps, over 2 ft high in lots of places. The last hillside climb to Namche' Bazaar was a killer, straight up switchbacks forever, made dangerous by rain, moss and tons of slick yak poop on the rocks. Since we both practiced on White Mtn and Whitney, basically the trail will be like the last mile on White and the 96 switchbacks and west side of the Whitney Trail to the summit. If you go, be prepared. I would hardily suggest loading a backpack with 45-50 lbs and doing stairs in a high-rise building to prepare.
On the good side, found out you all can do the Solokhumbu on a shoestring. Met many Americans self-guiding, staying at lodges all the way to Base Camp, traveling light. Lodges are $20 peer night, $15 with communal toilet. All have restaurants, all great meals and SAFE! I only caught the "Khumbu cough", but no dietary problems. The locals are diligently practicing Western hygiene. Very reasonaly priced too.
Everyone seems to speak enough English to get by. Plane fare is the big expense. Once you get over there it's not too bad. Credit cards are accepted most places. Don't miss this one if you can. Yeah, the flight to Lukla is the most dangerous in the world (according to a History Channel TV show) and everyone says a prayer during the landing. The locals have erected a stupa with a plaque naming all victims of the crash on 10-08-08. I'm sure there will be more plaques, but I've flown to Lukla twice and I've got to hand it to 3rd world pilots, they're the greatest!!!
