Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Winter Access Forum First Time in the Snow

I've read all the great tips for first timers and learned a lot from them, but I'm interested in making my first ascent in the snow, not a little snow in late June or July but full on snow in spring 2011. Tried in May last year and got turned around by a small snow storm - I didn't have enough navigation skills to feel confident in the low visibility and lack of clearly trodden path.
So, anyone out there like to generously share tips about their first time on a winter/spring climb? I'd be grateful for advice!

Baldy's not bad for an intro to snow hiking. It's fairly well traveled every day of the week.

JustBob

Take a snow travel course from SMI. Kurt and his team will get you the skills to confidently self arrest, use various crampons techniques, etc. Get Freedom of the Hills and hit up Baldy, Icehouse Canyon and other SoCal areas and head up to Whitney and work your way up the North Fork several times mid-winter to early spring. All of this should get you comfortable enough on snow to do a spring ascent of Whitney. It is not a technical mountain so getting yourself comfortable on the snow and on moderate slope angles should be what you need to feel comfortable.

I followed this method and am now a rather competent climber and mountaineer. If you know a more experienced person to tag along with then great, but that is not always an option. It wasn't for me.

What is SMI and how much it cost? What are the basic equipment really needed?
When going through Ski hut trail, do yo need crampons and ice ax?

Thanks!

Christobal,

Since you are taking a fancy to winter climbing, I highly recommend that you purchase Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, which is the Bible of mountaineering, in my opinion.

Mt. Baldy is an excellent training area for snow and ice travel, once winter conditions set in on Mt. Baldy. That is where I first practiced with my ice axe and crampons. And since I lived in Pasadena for 27 years, I also practiced up in the San Gabriels when we had good snow fall. I also lived in San Diego for eight years, but traveled to Baldy, San Jacinto and Gorgonio for winter camping and climbing. Those areas are also excellent for snowshoe training.

You can't beat professional training by SMI mentioned above. I took the glacial training by RMI on Mt. Rainier, which was excellent training for ice axe control and team-climbing.

I'm in a position similar to Cristobal. In particular I'm looking for an intro to winter climbing this March/April and the Mount Whitney Trail seemed like a promising start, which appears to be consistent with what's been said in this thread so long as I'm competent in self arrest and crampon use.

Unlike Cristobal I don't live in California, so Mount Baldy isn't an ideal practice area. I was hoping those of you who condone the use of Baldy as a training climb could help explain what distinguishes it.

I have the same question for the North Fork trail and why a segment of the more difficult mountaineer's route is appropriate practice for the easier mount whitney trail.

Thanks in advance for any help.

YEs....A few friends of mine are scheduled for early June. Has anyone yet summitted this year onto Whitney? Any recommendations? Thanks!

People have definitely been summiting all year but conditions seem to have been changing daily. A couple weeks ago, it was quite warm and snow was melting fast. Doug posted that new snow fell - on top of old iced up snow. Current forecast is showing very high winds.

I would say watch the board (and weather) daily for updated conditions as you get closer to your trip. You might not have a reasonable guess as to conditions until a day or two before you go. You'll probably need to be prepared for pretty much everything.

Brandon