Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board JustBob

I have been thinking about JustBob.

If his Aconcagua climb is on schedule, he should be somewhere around Camp 2 at 18,000 ft.

I hope all is well and looking forward to his safe return.

I just got home from my second of two trips this season on Aconcagua. I was in touch with Bob before I started in on my trip. We reached the summit on January 11 on a very pleasant day. I think Bob and his group were scheduled to start in on the 10th. If the weather has continued to offer favorable climbing conditions and he and his group have stayed healthy I think they should be getting close to being in position for a summit attempt. Keep those guys in your thoughts and prayers. We should be hearing some news soon!!

Here's the SMI Blog post that contains some pictures and below is a summit photo of my last group who I'm very proud of (minus me since I took the picture) on January 11. The entire photo gallery is here: Aconcagua January 2011.

Nice Kurt!

All Bob made it to the Summit!!! His entire team of 6 summited now they are heading down the mountain....Continue to pray for Bob's safety down the mountain...

Yeti.

email today:

I'm still here in Argentina and wanted to let all of you know that we summitted all 6 of our climbers on Mt.Aconcagua yesterday. It was quite an exciting day, dealing with high winds, freezing cold temps and finally a good snow fall once we were on the summit. Coming down was an experience as well.

A special thanks to all those who sent their prayers and well wishes along the way.

Now on to Peru and Chile............

Bob

Hi Kurt,
Congratulations for you and your team!!!.
I enjoyed your picture very much. I felt like I was on the trail with your team. Looking your pictures is 100% better than reading up the guide book.
I wish I could just see the mountain someday from distance.
Thank you for sharing the trip report and photos.

Shin

Hi Bob,
Congratulations!!!
I am looking forward to hearing your experience from your mouth at nice Persian restaurant. All your hard training paid off nicely. Please send my regards to Robert.
Have a safe trip home.
Shin

Shin something in my gut tells me if you and Richard bag the Orizaba together this year, in 2012 there might be an Argentina expedition for Team Richard and Shinmeista!

Congratulations Bob and crew!! Looking forward to hearing stories and seeing pictures soon. In the meantime travel safely and enjoy Peru and Chile!!

Congrats BOB!!!!!!!!!!

Hurray Bob!!!!!!!!!!!

I just heard from Bob and he summited on 1/23 at 3.23 PM.

Hey for him!!!

Can't wait to hear his stories

Bob is back!!!

Well!?!?

Where does one start.......Other than to say this was not a trip, it was an experience!

Through the last 18 months of planning, training and planning and training some more I though I had everything dialed in and knew exactly what to expect once in Argentina.
On arrival in Mendoza, Argentina I found everything to be exactly what I thought it would be and then some. This is a city, larger than I anticipated, with the friendliest people I have ever met.
Getting used to "siesta" was an eye opener. EVERYTHING in the city closes at 1:00P.M. and doesn't reopen until 5:00P.M. Eating dinner at 10 and 11 P.M. was interesting. The food throughout the trip (in Mendoza) was nothing short of great. (I've never eaten so much beef in my life).
I climbed with Grajales guides and couldn't have asked for 2 better guides than "Uli" ("ONLY" 47 summits of Aconcagua) and Augustine (ONLY 7 summits).

The weather moving up the Horcones valley was good the entire way with temps around the mid 70's. Once in base camp (14,500') I found it interesting to encounter so many people from so many locations throughout the world who were all there with one common goal in mind. Lots of laughs were had every night in the "mess tents" over beers, pizza and burgers.
During the time in base camp we did 3 acclimatization climbs to Cerro Bonette (16,500'), Plaza Francia (@15,500') and then to Camp 1 (@ 16,500')and back to base camp. After a rest day it was all business and no more rest days or beers!

Moving up the mountain to camp 1 I found to be easy since we had already done several acclimatization climbs to this altitude in the previous days. Sleeping at that altitude though was a new experience. I found myself waking up during the night gasping for air and had to talk myself in controlling my breathing.

On our climb to camp 2 the weather began to change for the worst and it became cloudy, windy and cold. Once in camp 2 we had just enough time to have a quick meal then crawl in our tents/sleeping bags as it continued to get colder.

The following morning we were met with clear cold skies and trudged to camp 3. (19,300'). It's amazing at how slow one must travel at these altitudes to avoid sickness and how it affects your appetite and desire to drink fluids.

Once in camp 3 we were again met with strong winds, cold and then SNOW! Throughout the night it snowed to the point I believed the guides would call off our summit attempt.
Then about 4 A.M. I heard "Uli" going to each tent saying "Be ready in 1 hour". Once dressed I stepped out of the tent to find about 18" of new snow, no wind and a clear sky displaying millions of stars.

Prior to starting out for the summit we had a group meeting and instructions were given. The trail leading up the mountain was covered by the fresh fallen snow so the pace was extremely slow.
As we worked our way up the mountain the dreaded "Canaletta" came into view. This, for 18 months, had been a most talked about portion of the climb, where many a climber had been turn backed. (The Canaletta is the steepest portion of the climb with up to 40 degree slopes just before the summit). I found myself in this section doing 8 steps then 10 breaths, then 5 steps then 10 breaths, then 1 step then 5 breaths! (That sucked!).
Finally after almost 2 hours of this I made my way onto the summit and couldn't believe that I was standing alone on top with only me and the aluminum cross that I had viewed so many times on Utube videos.
These were truly a few memorable minutes that I had to spend alone there. The satisfaction I felt of summiting made all 18 months of planning and training worth every minute. Shortly thereafter a group of Peruvians came up to the summit and "high fives", hugs and hand shakes were exchanged.

All in all it was a GREAT trip and I would highly recommend to anyone with high altitude aspirations to set their plan in motion, go to Argentina and climb Aconcagua.

Bob

P.S. - Cindy - You were right I gladly paid the $10.00 for the shower afterwards!

Gongrats Bob. Sound like you had a great time.

Congratulations, Bob! I know that you were as ready as anyone could be, and it sounds like it really paid off!

Bob on our next Baldy climb together you'll have to tell me about it. I'm Mtn Biking BlackStar this Sunday if you are interested...
and btw, CONGRATS, once in a lifetime achievement! To stand on the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas is wicked awesome...


Yeti