Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Ice Axe

I've told there's a new "guideline" for ice axe lengths. People are going to shorter ones, getting away from the; just touching or just above the ground with the arm straight. Anybody hear this?

I'd say there are differing opinions. Maybe "old school" versus "new school" or maybe just a function of how you learned and when, combined with exactly what sorts of climbing you'll be doing.

Back in the 80s when I learned summer snow travel and relatively-low-angle climbing, the guidance was that the head of the axe should just touch your palm, resting on the floor while you were wearing your normal boots.

I've heard recently that the tip of the axe should hang to your ankle bone when you hold it standing straight. (about 5cm shorter than the first case)

Personally, I'm used to and comfortable with the slightly longer axe for the summer climbing I've done over the years.

There is another whole debate about how you "leash" the axe. I was taught (and still use) a long enough piece of webbing that the "leash" stays on my right wrist when I change directions and put the axe in my left hand. (Axe always in the uphill hand as you switch directions.) I like that because it means I won't lose the axe if I drop it on the exchange. The tradeoff is that you have an extra loop of webbing dangling when the axe is in the same hand as the "leash" hand.

I would never claim to have the "final answer" on this subject, just reporting my own experience and preferences...

I hadn't heard that myself, but am not surprised.

I've always felt that the length, like most things, is a compromise. If you want an axe for self-arrest and well as a probe, then that argues for a longer one as it will be better for a probe. If it's too long, it will tire your arm unnecessarily (been there, done that). If you doing some moderately steep stuff (not technical) a shorter one is easier to use as a climbing aid. Often it's used as a brake in glissading, so even if you go shorter, make sure it's long enough to go across your body as you don't want the pick directly in front of your abdomen or chest.

Or, simply get two. My first was a Grivel Pamir, an old standby, and a few years later got a BD Raven Pro because of the buzz even though it was 40% more. Guess which one I prefer?