What can I say, the forecast was accurate
Headed up with a buddy on Wednesday morning, persistent snow began at LPL as many had mentioned. From LPL we took the high traverse that branches off just south of the main trail following LPL. I haven't climbed this early in previous years and the route was "in" much better than it will be in a couple weeks, provided it warms up sometime. The skull and crossbones "Not Trail" sign was amusing, but certainly did it's job as a couple other groups were making decisions at this point. We continued up the Consultation Lake drainage along this route which is in great shape now with little melting having gone on. Do take some precautions as there are a few spots that you would certainly need to arrest, also there is significant evidence of rockfall coming off Candlelight. We didn't see any active fall, but the proof is there as far down as the boottrack. The remainder of the high traverse was in good shape and we were in TC in good time. No current water sources other than melting snow/ice at TC, so if you choose this route fill up at LPL.
The forecast for Wed night at TC was 9 degrees with gusts to 60 which I would only describe as accurate, sunrise was a welcome sight. With the cold temps, the chute was well frozen and in great shape. Fortunately the winds deminished and we were able to climb the chute in good time. From Trail Crest to the summit there is still a good deal of ice to negotiate. Crampons aren't needed at this point although care should be given in a few spots certainly as this is an easy area to try to rush through.
After a quick climb through the boulder field we had summit to ourselves, a nice treat. On the descent, the chute was still too hard in my mind to consider a glissade so we walked down with relative ease. In a humorous twist, the flat area between the chute and TC was glare ice and greeted my newly crampon-less self accordingly. In all seriousness, even a better reason not to glissade until it warms up in my mind...
With the improving weather we were greeted with more climbers readying themselves for the next day at TC than we had previously seen. After a lighting fast descent through the high traverse we were back at the portal just in time to miss the kitchen closing by 15 minutes...d'oh! It's too bad as my partner was hell bent on attacking the Moose Burger which I would have liked to see.
Enjoy the mountain and be safe.
