Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Are the switchbacks accessible?

Hi,

I have a permit and going to attempt to summit on June 22nd.
I was wondering if the switchbacks are/will be accessible?
The chute scares me a little as it is my first time. As I did't plan for snow, what should I add to my gear list.

Cheers,

-e

no, the switchbacks are buried in snow.

Your question is a very complex one...The easy answer is that the switchbacks are buried. The "chute" is the way to go. The question becomes...What gear do I need?
Crampons and an axe AND THE KNOW HOW TO USE TOOLS are really the keys to the upper mountain. That said, if you hit the snow field at the right time kicking steps is a breeze. Barring a storm, there will be buckets for you to cruise in. If your timing is poor...Meaning if there is a shadow crossing the snowfield you could be in a real spot. Last season (about this time of year) I was with a group of great athletes new to mountaineering. The conditions were pretty close to what we have this year. As a group we made the "rock island" in the snow field our summit. I have close to 20 trips up Mount Whitney. By a number of different routes and all seasons. Be patient, make this trip a really enjoyable learning experience.
Now the list:
Starting at the feet,
Crampons (Black Diamond Contact Strap) my favs
Water resistant hikers (I use really light weight shoes) 5-10 insights(Do not use these in the current conditions!
Great socks(smart wool/thorlo)
Gaitors
Hiking pants(I do not wear shorts in the high mountains anymore)
Good boxer/briefs
Good shirts
Some light insulation
Full set of rain gear
Hats(one warm, one sun)
Good day pack
Water and food.
Wag bag
FirstAid/Blister kit
That just about gets it.
At the risk of sounding dramatic: As Ed said so well, The summit is optional, decent is mandatory. Listen to your gut. Don't let your ego get the better of you.
To mangle another quote: Croft this time. The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun. HAVE FUN

Tad

Thanks for the detailed response. I have most of the gear and will go and get crampons and axe.
We plan to start the hike from the portal at 3am. Do you think that will put us on the sunny side?

Do you know how to properly use the crampons and ax? Specifically can you self-arrest? The chute is really steep and can be difficult to stop yourself on in the best of conditions. If you don't have the skills, it's not worth buying the gear in my opinion.

I have used crampons and trekking poles before. The ax is new to me. Do you recommend we don't attempt?
How are trail conditions to the chute?

I think the feeling of the climbers/hikers (with a bit of seasoning) on the board is that the first time a person picks up a tool, should not be the time his or her life depends on it. I THINK YOU SHOULD GO! Have a great adventure. Don't be afraid to call it a day if the going gets dicey. You will not be alone out there. Talk to your fellow travelers. Listen to your gut.
As I said in my earlier post, I have spent a bit on time in the Whitney area. My favorite time to hit the trail is about 0100 hours. This puts you at Trail Camp at around dawn. The snow field is crisp and you are not wallowing 2 hours later at Trail Crest. You get to the summit before the crowds. Most importantly, you get back to the snow field before it falls into shadow. And most importantly (yeah I said it twice) down to the store for burgers and beer before closing time! This is some of the most beautiful country you can ever find yourself in. Arc Pass, Mount Muir at dawn...The waterfall at Outpost Camp. The journey is the adventure. I am beating a dead horse to death...Have fun!

Tad

How far down does the snow go? Is the trail actually snowed over before Lone Pine Lake turnoff?

As a bettin man...Pretty clear until Lone Pine Lake.

I did leave some gear off the list from my earlier post...
Gloves! I bring 2 sets Liners and waterproof/insulated.
(Thanx for the reminder!)


Tad

As of Monday the snow began shortly before the log bridge below LP Lake, then was open for the bridges themselves, and then intermittent snow for the next 100 yards or so. About where the "you need a permit to go beyond this point" sign a snowfield begins, with intermittent clear spots from there up to Bighorn Park/Outpost Camp. Pretty easy to navigate in the daylight; can be a bit confusing in the dark unless you're familiar with the trail.

We will attempt to summit this coming Sunday - June 19th. This is our first time on Whitney. We are not first time mountaineers though - climbed Shasta last year after season under very nasty ice conditions using crampons and ice axes.

Reading this forum it appears the switchbacks are closed and unpassable? So the way to go is the chute to the right of the switchbacks. Is this accurate?

How steep is the chute (40 degrees, 45, more)? I am trying to determine if we will be in mortal danger trying to climb it (with crampons and ace axes) in the early morning hours.

Also, is the trail to the top well marked and easy to follow in the dark?

Any advise/info is appreciated.

Thanks,
Michael

Assuming the weather is good, it is my feeling that daybreak is the best time to hit the snowfield. Without climbing with you its hard to know how squared away you are. I have to say on the face of it, Shasta is a perfect way to prep for Whitney. People debate the exact angle of the snowfild. Once you start up the snowfield proper, the angle is about 30-35 degrees. I usually keep the boulder field to my (climbers) right then traverse to Trail Crest towards the top. The trail well marked. Just don't head downthe signed John Muir Trail. As far as the "Am I gonna die?" part...Just climb in good style and be careful.

Tad

Thanks for responding. is 35 degrees the slope of the chute that should be used as alternative to the switchbacks?

30-35 degrees is a guestimate. And yep. Thats the snow slope. The switchbacks are buried Please don't get caught up in how steep or not steep the snow slope is. For a couple of hours just be prepared to make sure each foot placement is a good one.
No drama...Just a good steady pace. When I first start working with new climbers, I try and set a pace that allows for good footing without a lot of starts and stops.
As you move higher don't forget to enjoy your surroundings. Its really beautiful country.

Tad

Thanks Tad.

Another question: can crampons and ace ice be rented from the Whitney Portal store?

As of last season, "Elevation" in Lone Pine was a good spot for gear. Great folks. I also think that helping to support the local economy is cool. From the gas stations to the Portal Store. I do my best to "Shop Local."

Tad

You may want to call Elevation first. I believe that is where I went last year and they would rent crampons but not an ice ax (insurance reasons).

If you are traveling via Bishop, you might want to check with these guys: http://www.sierramountaineering.com/rentals.html
They seem to rent both crampons & ice-axes.

I had them on my list for my trip, but ultimately decided to rent my crampons & ice-axes from the SF bay area itself.

Thanks Juggernaut.

Where in the bay area can crampons be rented from?

Michael
P.S.
I spoke to the Berkely REI - the only way to rent crampons from them is if I also rent the boots (which I don't need). With this the rental price become $50-$60.

Going up a slope like the chute is not the hard part; coming down is... Falling if it's icy is to be avoided and falling while descending is much more likely than while ascending. I'd say you should arrange your climbing schedule to descend the chute while it's still soft....Best luck to you; I wish I could be there.