Trip report - Main Trail Nov 11, 2012, dayhike.
I summited Whitney yesterday (Sunday, Nov 11) as a oneday hike from the trailhead on the Main Trail.
Some thoughts for those going up over the next few days.
Temperature - The weather is warming, but it was cold this past weekend when the storm and cold front moved in.
While my car was parked in Lone Pine, the water bottles froze in the back seat over night. This would imply a low temp of low-mid teens
at the Portal trailhead not correcting for windchill. This may not apply for the upcoming days when temps will
be warmer, but I needed most layers I carried with me and added another warm layer on rest stops, hiking in four
layers most of the way. Warm gloves and liners, Goggles, face/neck protection were also needed as were
thermal pants and a shell for the wind. Factor this all in as it adds weight to your pack. You will feel the cold
on that early start. I started at 2:45AM and was waiting for sunrise every minute!
Water - Water is frozen at Trail Camp and most spots the mile before reaching TC; the last water available I recall
was along the trail around Outpost Camp; I heard water running under snow and ice further up which might
also be gotten if you can get through the ice. Keep in mind I didn't go look for water and assumed I'd
need to carry it all, so I did, so with some searching, you may find some higher up. Before I went up, I was
told the ice was too thick to chop throught at TC - I didn't check this, however.
Given the lack of water, unless you have the time and desire
to melt snow (as a dayhiker), you will need to carry most or all of your water. This will also add a lot
of weight to your pack. If you're camping overnight, then just melt snow at TC or if you are camping at Outpost
then the water is closeby. Snow was blown and drifted in
spots, but no more and 6-12" deep in most spots at Trail Camp, with many spots for a tent.
Traction - I used crampons and would advise anyone going up to bring them, as most of the switchbacks
from the cables up are packed with snow and ice, with the dozen or so before the cables also snow
covered but will less severe consequences in the event of a fall. Some people had yaktraks and microspikes-
I never used them so cannot comment on their usefulness, figuring this was one instance, I don't want
to skimp on ounces. G-12s are probably overkill, but that's what I brought and used them, and honestly
they give me more comfort and confidence in walking on dicey terrain, which is what matters.
Trekking poles also will help. I don't think an axe would be useful. I had mine, but it stayed my pack, as
I didn't feel there enough snow to warrant its use and enable a self arrest in the event of a slide.
Most of all, walk slowly on the icy parts of the trail, a lot of the ice is not evident.
Trail conditions:
Trail clear up to about 10,000ft where small patches of snow and ice start appearing;
Above 10,000, ice and packed snow are on trail in more spots. The higher you go, the more
ice you will see. Some of this ice is under a thin coating of snow and you won't see it making
falling probable (speaking from experience!) Walk carefully. For those of you who have not been on this
trail, pay attention around the 11-11,500 mark where the trail is tougher to follow in a few sections.
Most switchbacks are snowcovered. While lower down you can get by with no traction, it can't hurt to use some,
since you will want it anyway higher up.
From Trail Crest to the back over the ups and downs thereafter as you enter the National Park,
there is intermittent snow and ice, some of which you will want traction on.
After these junction spots to where the route finally gains the remaining elevation to the summit,
there is patchy snow on the trail to the top but doable without traction here; Icier in cooler conditions.
I would say traction is helpful until this point, where
you can take it off on the rockier spots for the last 1-1.5 miles to the top
Creatures - I saw two deer lower down, but saw no bears, mountain lions or bigfoot.
Portal Road - I saw some small bowling ball sized rocks tumble down, which you should be mindful of
when driving up. Road was otherwise clear with no ice or snow on it.
Closing thoughts - comparing this to my earlier summer/autumn day hike trips, or even the Spring snowclimb this past
May, this hike was brutal since I carried all my fluids (7L - yes I drink a lot), several more clothing layers,
and winter gear, which made for a HEAVY pack to hike 22 miles with.
Good luck if you are heading up!
