The Wall Street Journal's extreme sports and mountain climbing writer, Michael Ybarra, is missing in the Sierras. He planned to traverse the Sawtooth Ridge near Yosemite. He was supposed to be back last weekend.
hi Mr WhitWalker - sorry to hear bout your friend. I saw a WSJ piece yday that said he had died but that assumes searchers found his body and i did not see that mentioned.
As per Peter Croft's book "The Good the Great and The Awesome", the Sawtooth Traverse is Grade VI 5.8 The grade is subjective as it is proposed by one of the strongest climbers in the world. The grade is given as starting on the North Arete of Matterhorn Peak and finishing on a descent of Blacksmith Peak. However the traverse can be done in reverse as well . I havent done the Traverse but i have done the starting route N Arete of Matterhorn .Matterhorn rock is good but it is said that portions of the traverse are crumbly 'kitty litter' granite . I've also climbed routes in the area in a neighboring canyon (Little Slide Canyon) and experienced shocking variability in the rock quality. Incredible Hulk was solid high-quality granite all the way and Outguard Spire across the canyon was probably the worst kitty litter granite i've experienced in the Sierras. I felt lucky to have topped out on Outguard and would never recommend that route to anyone.
More importantly, if they havent found his body then there is still hope that he can be found alive in the area. He may be injured from a fall and not able to move from whatever sheltered spot he may have sought refuge from the elements. I wish him luck
Google Earth shows Matterhorn Peak at the South / East end of Sawtooth Ridge. Ironically, the Sierra Challenge, subject of much current discussion, starts this year with Eocene Peak, at the extreme western end of Sawtooth.
