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Hi Fiber and conduit on the last few miles now, Should be online by July and your house very soon! We have meetings week after next in Sacramento, three days to see if we can get more funding for small providers and adoption plans to get out to the very remote locations. It's been a ride. Stay safe and keep us in the loop. Thanks Doug
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Funny question, maybe, but is honey available over there? Honey was the thing that helped the most when my brain felt sluggish at altitude on Kili. Gonna bring some to Nepal if it's not readily available... Post-Google P.S. Ooh, I'd like to try some red honey. This is fascinating. http://www.visualnews.com/2012/06/04/the-honey-hunters-of-nepal/
Last edited by Akichow; 03/05/13 06:10 AM. Reason: Google says honey is harvested at high altitudes in Nepal...but is it available to buy?
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Honey almost everywhere in Nepal. They use it for syrup for pancakes, etc.
I'm in Ngadi (Nadi) and I've just been cursed by a competitor of the establishment where I stopped for lunch ( after only a little more than a mile). She used a chopping motion at the end of the curse. I hope that doesn't mean I'm going to be beheaded as sacrifice for better business.
Last edited by Richard P.; 03/05/13 06:21 AM. Reason: At this rate i may be going home right after the AC/ABC
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good to hear my nuts are now international.
Hope you continue to have a great time with no foreseeable beheadings.
Thanks for the updates.
Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.
Helen Keller
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March 5, 2013
So, a little more on being driven - I got Shotgun in a cool 4WD. The ride to Bhulbhule cost about 2.50.
Hooked up with YoYo (Yolanda) after the curse in Ngadi. I'm hanging out with a young, gorgeous German woman with my tongue hanging out (not because of lust... I'm just too pathetically weak for the Himalaya right now). I think she trusts me because a lot of the conversation has been about my wife.
She's heading to Manang for two months of Volunteer work with one of the NGOs.
We called it a day in Bahundanda instead of continuing on and it turned out to be a good choice because shortly after we stopped, we were treated to a great lightning/thunder/rain storm.
It was a whopping 6.3 miles for me. YoYo had walked from Besi Sahar via an alternate route. (Which is what I wanted to do, but the TIMS folks said I should just walk the road. They hadn't a clue...)
Haven't a clue how far the legs will be willing to take me today.
##########
March 6, 2013
Bahundanda to Chamje
FYI regarding phone service: if I had a do-over, I'd buy a dual SIM phone and put Nepal Telecom and NCell cards in it. NT is working up here. BTW: anybody know what "Restricted Access Changed" means? My phone had service farther up canyon than I expected until this popped up.
Today would best be described as a Classic Sweatfest. I don't remember when I've had so much pouring off of my forehead. I didn't think it possible for Nepal to be this hot and muggy this early in the season. I thought of Gary from Hotlanta a few times today. I'm sure he deals with conditions like this on a regular basis.
We got rained on a bit today and then the skies really opened up (hard rain for quite a while) after we arrived at the lodge.
It's not a competition, but some of the other groups are turning it into that, and they aren't fairing too well. YoYo and I are a perfect pair of Plodders... but we never stop. Three separate groups of Israelis went smoking by, only to have to stop to catch their breath. I gave them the evil (long) smirk as I walked past. (Along with the HaHa under my breath.) We didn't see them again until at the Lodge. Then there was the Oz/Kiwi (?) pair of studs. Same thing. Haven't a clue what's happened to them other than they called it a day down canyon when they couldn't keep up with the Old Man and the Hot Babe.
BTW: I found out today that YoYo is only 18. First question was "How did you get your parents to agree to this?" This young lady really has it all together though.
BTW2: The most awesome, radiant smile when I said "You're the perfect hiking companion for me right now."
BTW3: The story has now changed to: she's my granddaughter. Keeps me from having to explain my lack of children and changes the odd looks most of the Nepalis have on their faces when the Old Geezer walks in with such a young woman.
BTW4: The scenery has been magnificent... First sighting of snow-covered peaks, awesome "rainforest," awesome waterfalls... makes me forget that I've been beat to s4!7 these first two days of walking ...
%%%%%%%%%%
March 7, 2013
Chamje to Danaque
We kicked it up a notch today and did about 20K (12.07 miles). Trying to keep up with an 18yo on a day of steady uphill (with the frustrating occasional downhill) was rough.
There was a significant change in weather (and my attitude) as we crossed into the Manang District (the stifling humidity that been punishing me the last few days has disappeared).
Four days into this trek and we've only made it to about the altitude of Morris Peak.
Our days will start to get significantly shorter, timewise, as we need to start focusing on acclimatization.
$$$$$$$$$$
March 8, 2013
Danaque to Chame
8.09 miles today and we're finally above the elevation of the Portal.
Another butt-kicking staircase to start... YoYo left me in the dust...
The views went beyond fantastic...
It seems like all of us Trekkers wanted to stay together tonight because our lodge is crowded and the others are mostly deserted.
Met a couple today who have spent the last few years teaching in South Korea. Met a Japanese man yesterday who is on a world tour. He was down in Patagonia recently.
I'll be losing service again after tomorrow morning so it may be a while...
I'm still alive so the hex hasn't worked yet (unless you count the fact that I've been suffering a pretty bad case of indigestion the last few days.)
I'm trying to post a few more photos but it doesn't look like there's the necessary bandwidth to get it done.
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... I'm just too pathetically weak for the Himalaya right now I have this sudden urge to shout, "It's all relative, dammit!" Next you'll be telling us you're hauling Ensure in your pack . . . Enjoy yourself Richard, and bring back lots of photos.
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the village before Manang is much better to stay as is the "village" just an hour after. by village i mean 3-4 buildings and a couple of families. there's a nice french lady there who has been coming back for the past 5 years and stay for a season. she made delicious muffins with local berries. the views from the restaurant is the best on the whole trek. probably the last of the grand vista of the annapurna range. i'm going to bet you will like her.
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Hi Sounds like things are working out maybe you can get a picture of YoYo for us, well you know just something that lets the young people know about the outdoors. Thanks Doug
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Hey Kevin, I emailed your hotel to check on availability. I was aware of them because their tripadvisor reviews are fabulous, and then to get your positive report...seems a no brainer. (I was supposed to be at the Shakti hotel, which is used by my provider, but that place does not have great reviews. My provider will give me a credit if I stay elsewhere.)
I'll email you my dates of travel. Hope it works out!
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i just mentioned your name to Michelle, the hotel owner. i actually live at the hotel as are a few others and we have magical wine glasses that never goes empty 
Last edited by kevin trieu; 03/14/13 02:40 PM.
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March 9, 2013
Chame to Upper Pisang
A day of walking wonderful forests...
Lots of time on the road, unfortunately...
Outstanding views again...
A walk with short horses...
Hoping to finish early to clean things up...
Damn it's cold when the wind blows...
We were at 10955' at the lodge. Since I went thru (lower) Pisang the mileage was 10.42.
Oh, the motorcycles on the road... one brushed by YoYo and after that I kept turning, looking for one to "clothesline" and then kick his ass. Funny how they stay far away when you're glaring at them...
###############
March 10, 2013
Upper Pisang to Manang
I said goodbye to YoYo because I couldn't decide whether I wanted to make things a little easier on myself (Almost all of us trekkers are suffering a respiratory/sinus infection of some type. It's spreading like wildfire.) by just walking the road. Everybody had left and I was having a conversation with the owner and he stated I shouldn't miss the high route... He was right!
A day of rain, snow, mud, more snow...
No views...
Fantastic forest walking...
One BRUTAL climb...
Having too much fun motoring the rollers and downhills...
Finding a fantastic hotel, with private cottages...
Having finished in time to watch the HEAVY snowfall from the comfort of a heated dining room!
I'm at 11560' here and the highpoint today was at 12420.13.87 miles.
We're planning on jeep/bus rides down to Tatopani... I want to get away from this and into the Sanctuary as quickly as possible. (We is Stephanie from OR and Tobias from CA .)
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
March 11, 2013
Acclimatization day in Manang
A day of awesome spindrift off of all of the mountains in view.
I walked up to the Praken Gompa at just shy of 13k and took a 1 1/2 hour nap.
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March 12, 2013
Manang to Yak Kharka
~6.5 miles, 13,200' elevation.
Don't remember much of the day, probably because thoughts of the pass crossing start to dominate.
:::::::::::::::
March 13, 2013
Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi
How many times can one be Lucky?
We were intending on going to High Camp, but by the time we got to Phedi, I had a dull headache.
Along the way, I stopped to take a couple of photos. When I turned around to start uphill again, I heard a thud above and looked up to see a large rock heading towards me. I only had time to lean back a little as it went whizzing by. I felt the wind as it passed.
How much time can you burn discussing a start time?
I walked away from that one and decided I would just go with the flow.
***************
March 14, 2013
Crossing the Thorong La
The decision was for a 0400 breakfast...
Pretending to be KW.
Guess who was designated as the leader? I just pretended to be KW on the way up to High Camp and then stopped for 2nd Breakfast.
The respiratory infection I picked made the pass crossing harder than I thought it would be. I crawled up and then just put my head down to get to Muktinath.
Nice hotel... cell service again... good views.
We changed plans again and will walk a high route to Jomsom today and then bus it to Tatopani tomorrow for a much needed rest and cleaning day down low.
==========
Kevin, everybody told me to stay in Bragga, but I just walked on to Manang. I'm not sorry I did. The Tilicho Hotel was a fantastic place to stay for a couple of days.
Doug, there's a group photo in the album I linked to in a message above. I can't seem to get to the properties of the photo to post it here.
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Hi Thanks for the update. Kurt is back and been to Whitney and Baldy!
WOW climb had a strong march in whiteout conditions, very cold and windy.I did the Nevada, Long Beach ,Sacramento loop and off to Nevada .
Jr bought a Husky 511 I took one ride , very nice sits high 2 stroke throttle and 4 stroke power.
Yup German If you see YoYo again tell her part of my family came from there like about 1/2 of Americans in the mid west.
No word from Amy or Myles so think they went back in for the final climb before coming home.
Take care Doug and the Crew
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That Husky is a cool bike. I looked at one a while back.
I've been taking photos of TALL towers to whet Amy & Myles appetite for a trip over here
March 15, 2013
Muktinath to Jomsom
15.34 miles of Nepali Downhill today. We've dropped down to a little above 9000' and the air feels really, really thick. That's nearly (probably more) 8000' of descent in two days.
I added a photo of a kid that latched on to me in Jomsom 13 years ago. I got a couple of leads on where he may possibly be now. I'm going to spend a bit of time looking for him tomorrow morning. It'd be cool to see him as a young adult.
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Read your updates. Great trip. I like your image of the Jac donald's. Funny and cute
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Richard, Thanks for the updates, I'm really enjoying reading your reports... what an adventure!!
Take care of yourself and that respiratory infection!
"What we have done for ourselves alone dies with us; what we have done for others and the world remains and is immortal." Albert Pike
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March 16, 2013
Jomsom to Tatopani by bus.
Think KTM - Pokara, KTM - Jiri and multiply the "pain" factor by about three! There has been only one other bus ride that I would consider worse and that was for about 45KM of "road" from a very remote section of the Langtang Region to KTM.
What's happening in Nepal? An older woman and a young woman get on the bus and the young girl takes a seat and makes the older woman stand. I wasn't about to give up my seat, but did indicate to the woman that she could sit across my armrest and knees. She did and my arms were pinned to my chest for the next few hours. (Respect for Elders?)
Last night we were sitting in the Bob Marley Restaurant smoking a reefer that I made out of pot that I had harvested and dried from the other side of the trek. (Of course I'm joking, but the reality is that this could have happened without fear of being shot at.) (They did do my laundry.)
I'm really pigging out on this rest break. We've found a nice family run restaurant that we're returning to and also eating at the hotel to keep the owners of the establishment happy. (If you don't know, in Nepal, you get free, or cheap, accommodations because they expect you to spend lots of money on overpriced food.)
Outstanding views up the valley to Nilgiri. There was a lightning strike yesterday afternoon that set off some fires on the lower slopes. Interesting light show last night.
Day after tomorrow we walk again.
###############
March 17, 2013
Sitting around in Tatopani
A little girl gets the traditional ear piercing and cries for around 15 minutes.
Down by the river, there is a cremation fire.
Spending time with a village elder, talking communications electronics that went way over my head, the best places for best prices, and the American who is building a home on the hill above the village.
---------------
March 18, 2013
Tatopani to Ghorepani
10.02 miles. The guesstimate was 2000m of elevation gain.
Lots of sweat again. Lots of cold soda. Cool mountain views again.
***************
March 19, 2013
Poon Hill & Ghorepani to Chhomrong
Poon Hill actually seemed better this time. A new tower on top of the hill that allows you to get the people out of the photos if you wish.
Stephanie is fighting what all the rest of us had had and needed some additional rest. I need to move on from the Annapurna Region, so I've started pushing the pace a bit.
Today was another sweatfest down in the jungle, but the day ended with the most spectacular sunset on the Fishtail.
13.08 miles; lots and lots of ups & downs. The stairs near Chhomrong were as bad as I remembered.
BTW: The Rhododendrons are out of this world right now!
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March 20, 2013
Chhomrong to MBC
12.18 miles up to an altitude of 11,920'.
With the usual downhills in the Nepali up hills, this was over 5000' of climbing. I was planning on pushing all the way up into the Sanctuary, but with whiteout conditions (I couldn't even see where the "upper" Guest Houses were.), I stopped at the lowest lodge.
Watched a couple of movies with some Russians who were going to helicopter out of the Sanctuary in a few days.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
March 21, 2013
MBC to the Annapurna Sanctuary and down to Bamboo.
2.41 miles to ABC @ 13,498'.
11.87 miles total, ending at 7,556'.
Live 'N Learn.
A couple of large groups had booked 25 rooms in the Sanctuary, so there were none available. One lodge owner offered me the kitchen or dining room, but since I got what I wanted as far as views of the South Face of Annapurna, I decided to head down.
It snowed, hailed and rained a LOT the whole day. By the time I got to Bamboo, I was ready to get out of the weather. Shortly after grabbing a room, the downpour started.
A few groups had to keep walking as I happened to get the last room in the village.
WILD Women...
A Brit, 4 Ozzie's, 1 American Folk Singer, a bunch of Nepali women and the Token Male (seriously!).
One of the Nepalis had climbed Annapurna...
Interesting (women's) conversation (l didn't blush)...
Great singing, which I had mentioned that I missed because Porters now wear MP3s.
BTW1: I missed getting to look for the boy from Jomsom because our 9:00 bus actually was a 7:00 bus.
BTW2: Saw Taka (the Japanese world traveler I kept crossing paths with since the start) and Tobias and Stephanie.
***************
March 22, 2013
Bamboo to Bherikharka
13.38 miles down to an elevation of 5,974'.
Another hot and muggy day. I was planning on exiting today, but managed to miss a junction and ended up on a long traverse out past the Australian Camp and Phedi (both tomorrow morning). As this is a BUNCH of Tropical Walking, I'm really bummed I missed the turn to NayaPul.
I should be back in Kathmandu on Sunday.
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Very interesting reading Richard. Thank you for the posts.
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So, I've finished the Annapurna Region portion of my trip over here...
- 155.67 miles. (According to my GPS. I couldn't figure out how to have it tell me elevation changes without saving a track and I didn't want to do that because of battery consumption.)
- it'll be 20 days by the time I get back to Kathmandu tomorrow.
- a little less than $500, unless I go hog wild with the women...whiskey...food here in Pokhara.
Thoughts on the changes I've seen:
- I won't be back on foot...
- because too much of the trek was in sweat fest territory... (which I don't recall from the previous trek I did later in the season)
- I may head back up to Manang by motorcycle because I really would like to see Tilicho Tal, which was still closed while we were up there...
- I'd probably take my wife on the Circuit by jeep so she could see some of the Temples, etc.
- Good to see that telecom, etc is available for even the most lowly laborers, but I think they're still being exploited (non-tourist Porters) by their own people. I haven't a clue whether Tourist Porters are making a decent wage out of the much higher costs that agencies are charging these days. They're still carrying pretty heavy loads.
On to Langtang...
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