Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board TR: Nepal (EBC, Gokyo-Ri, Passes) 4/13-5/10/2013

Sometimes a trip feels a little big, and maybe a little complicated, for a trip report. But after a week back in the States, the GI issues and time zone issues are almost resolved, and so it is now or never. Mostly, I took a lot of pictures, and it is fun to share them.

OVERVIEW

I did a 28-day trip to Nepal that included a large Everest Base Camp loop, basically Kathmandu-Lukla-Namche-Thame-Renjo La Pass-Gokyo/Gokyo Ri-Chola Pass-Lobuche-Gorek Shep/EBC-Island Peak-Dingboche-Tengboche-Namche-Lukla-Kathmandu. While I did not realize it at the time I booked, this is probably the most strenuous pre-organized EBC trip you can book through a tour operator (an easier, somewhat shorter, loop skips Thame and Chola Pass, and instead heads up to Gokyo through Machermo). I booked with Mountain Monarch Adventures, a Nepali-owned and -based tour operator, and would not hesitate to book with them again. One of the owners, Pradip, handles bookings directly, and is the epitome of a personally engaged and responsible businessman (I met him several times in Kathmandu).

People ask me how the trip was. The first word that comes to mind is exhausting! Yes, fun, exciting, immersive, beautiful, stunning, rugged, are also accurate adjectives. At one point, I lost all track of time -- had to check my iPhone to see if it was 2013 or 2014. But this was one of those trips that involved managing a fair amount of discomfort, then savoring the big payoffs for all that hard work, when they finally arrived. A couple of factors contributed to how exhausting this was for me, not the least of which were ongoing GI issues and unseasonable snow at high elevations (particularly the passes). That said, conditioning was also a factor, even though I consider myself to be in good shape (there are many folks on this board who are just stronger than me). Kilimanjaro was a walk in the park by comparison.

A key highlight of the trip was hiking up Gokyi Ri with Richard P from this bulletin board. Gokyo Ri is fun in its own right, and getting to meet Richard made it very special.

People ask how many miles I hiked. I don't know, and probably no one knows for sure, because in Nepal, people discuss distances in terms of hours rather than miles or kilometers, as this sign illustrates:



I would guess, though, that we hiked at least 120 miles(by comparison, the traditional EBC out and back is about 70 miles). My altimeter counted 46,800 feet of elevation gain over the course of the trek (Lukla to Lukla).

I previously wrote up the adventure-within-and adventure of getting to/from Lukla here. Ultimately, this was our chariot to Lukla (and a so worth the extra $$$ it costed).



I am posting my favorite pictures from five general categories: (1) mountains/passes; (2)interesting/fun moments from the trail; (3) Namche, because I love Namche; and (4) plants and animals; and (5) Kathmandu. Gonna do this in a few posts.

PART I: THE MOUNTAINS/PASSES

This is what folks want to see, I think. This trip delivered. Here are some highlights in chronological order.

The Himalaya, including Everest, from the 777 in which I flew from Thailand (sitting on the right side of the plane per Richard P's excellent advice).



First view of Everest from the ground (from the Park Headquarters in Namche). My guide had left me for dead following the steep climb up to Namche, but after a little rest, I went out to explore, and this was one of my rewards.



Thame, the morning after nightime snowfall.



On the way to Lungden from Thame, first view of Cho Oyu.



Working our way up to Renjo La Pass (the v-notch all the way on the right)



Finally approaching Renjo La Pass



Gokyo as seen from early morning hike up Goyko Ri



View from summit of Gokyo Ri (that's Everest and Lhotse looming in the distance)



Okay, here's a zoomed image of Everest and Lhotse from Gokyo Ri.

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Just loved Gokyo and Gokyo Ri

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View from Chola Pass

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Hiking down from Chola Pass. Ama Dablam in the distance at center. Arakam Tse and Cholatse loom on the right.

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Hiking from Dzongla to Lobuche. Ama Dablam at center.

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Hiking from Lobuche to Gorek Shep. Pumori now dominates (left of center), with Lingtren (center) and Khumbutse (right of center) also visible. At right is the Khumbu Glacier, which leads to EBC.

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Great view of Everest on the hike from Gorek Shep to Everest Base Camp

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Everest Base Camp, Khumbu Ice Fall

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More Khumbu Ice Fall

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Base Camp

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Memorial Chortens for those who have died on Everest (on the way to Dingboche)

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Scott Fischer's Chorten with Ama Dablam in the background

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Ama Dablam. And yak.

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Dingboche with Island Peak in the distance, left of center.

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Another angle on Ama Dablam

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Island Peak Base Camp

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Ama Dablam at dawn (from 19,000' on Island Peak, about where I turned around due to weather and stomach cramps).

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Classic Ama Dablam

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Last Everest view from the ground (from Namche)

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PART II: INTERESTING/FUN MOMENTS FROM THE TRAIL

Just one of many crazy porter loads I saw (this one near Namche). The craziest is further down in this trip report. (Moosetracks,are you paying attention?)



I got stuck behind this yak (hybrids) train on the way to Lungden. The woman thew snowballs at the yaks (hybrids) to try to get them to move faster. Didn't really work.



Lodge owner feeding yak dung to the stove (main heating device) in the tea loge at which we stayed in Lungden. Other stoves on the trip sometimes were fueled by pellets, wood, or kerosene.



This is how we heat a big pot of water in the Khumbu.



This qualifies as a fun (for me) moment on the trail. Me learning how to jumar up (Island Peak Base Camp).



This would be a typical tea house lodge room (in Dingboche), except for the fact that the walls were covered in astroturf.



Altogether now, "what the world needs is love sweet love...." Random water tap spirituality.



A load worthy of Moosetracks. Them be mattresses...at least 100 lbs worth....



Just about the only chain store I saw the entire time I was in Nepal.

PART III: NAMCHE

I kind of fell in love with Namche, which is a good thing because I spent two days there at the beginning, and another two days there toward the end. TIP: NAMCHE HAS GREAT APPLE PIE.

Namche as the clouds clear revealing the mountains that surround it. I think I took this picture from my lodge.



Namche from the vertiginous trail that leads up to/down from Sygneboche and the Everest View Hotel



More Namche




Monastery in Namche.


This is Khumjung, the green-roofed city, home of the Hilary school, which is a nice day hike from Namche (can be combined with a hike to the Everest View Hotel).

PART IV: PLANTS AND ANIMALS

It took me a while to realize that my otherwise excellent (and very safety-conscious) guide was not as interested in plants and animals as I was (though he was carrying a decent guide to Nepal's plants and animals). So I did not see as much in this area as I might have liked. But here are a few pics anyway.

Rhododendrons!!!





Yaks!!!



Yak Mama and Her Mini-Me!



Livestock!!! These guys (girls?) cracked me up.





Nepal's national bird aka Himalayan Monal aka Danphe

PART V: KATHMANDU

And finally, the crazy, loud, dirty/polluted, mess that is Kathmandu. After I arrived, I could not wait to get out of Kathmandu to start my trek. But at the end of this trek, something happened to me, and I didn't want to leave.

Pictures from Monkey temple, Kathmandu.










Boudhanath (Bhuddist stupa in Kathamandu)



Cremations at Pashupatinath Temple





Women lining up to get water in Patan



Thamel District at night



Tallest Shiva (108 feet) in Nepal, on outskirts of Kathmandu



The story about Namo Buddha Monastery, on the outskirts of Kathmandu, is that a Prince came across a tiger and her starving lion cubs and offered himself up so that her cubs could eat and survive

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Clowns feature in buddhism but I don't really understand how. This picture is from Namo Bhudda Monastery

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Prayer flags at Namo Bhudda Monastery

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So much of it is so familiar.

But, I get to see a lot of what I missed in that I seemed to have bad weather whenever I got to where I should have had these spectacular views.

Gokyo was SPECIAL.

It's interesting that I've been trying to get myself to get to the thousands of photos I haven't even looked back at yet, and my decision for posting (if I ever do get to it) is going to be categories, just like you've done...

Nice!

Beautiful expedition. Thanks for sharing!

Article on Nepal's neighbor: http://observers.france24.com/content/20...ns_service=mail

Assimilation nearly complete.

Hi And I look out the window and see the Sierra the first step of many adventures. Thanks so much for you insights on the experience I am sure you have sparked a few trips . Can't wait for the slideshow!! Doug

Wonderful description of your adventures Karin, your photos and comments really brought your post to life. I notice that despite the trials and tribulations of the journey you never lost your sense of humor, congratulations and welcome back.

Phil

Great photos Karin! Thanks for sharing your most excellent adventure!

I think that Amy and Miles are scheduled for their slide show on June 29th? Might this be a good time/day for Richard and Karin share their slides? Or, perhaps too much for one event?
I would love to hear all about these epic events.

SENSATIONAL! Thank you so much for your time and effort in posting this. It epitomizes two of my life long passions -- travel and mountains.

OUTSTANDING! Adventure of a lifetime. Thank you for the honest TR... The challenges along with the highlights and everything in-between. Amazing photos! Just amazing...

Doug - My Mt. Whitney trip in '87 was the catalyst for many a great adventure... That trip sparked something deep within.

Thank you for all the nice and supportive comments, and glad folks enjoy the photos! Sharing photos after a trip is part of the fun.

Yes, Whitney is a stepping stone ... but then I keep stepping back because many aspects of Whitney remain challenging to me (want to summit via the MR, climb the MT chute, hike in via the HST, etc.). Plus it is my anchor. Which is why, 2 weeks after Nepal, it is drawing me South.

Would love to share photos, tell stories, see folks, but that last weekend in June won't work for me alas.... Would have loved to see the Patagonia pics.

The snowfield up to TC should happen for you this weekend...
The MR can happen any time you want it to this summer...
I enjoyed climbing with you in Nepal and I'm sure it'll be just a fun on our home turf...

That is, if you want to.

You know I do. We're hoping to see you Sunday!

I see some folks are hitting the switchbacks and some are hitting the snowfield. I am wondering how early to hit the snowfield for it to be worthwhile. Looks like there is light at 5:20 am or so, actual sunrise at 5:37 am....

Hi Akichow,
Thank you very much for sharing your albums.
I really enjoyed your every pictures.

Shin

Great photo trip report. Fantastic views and great presentation of the local atmosphere. I like Mini Me

Karin, that was a long way from Baldy, eh?
Well done!
Drooling until 2014.
Harvey