Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mt. Langley - Final Approach Route?

I need some real help here. I've read probably over a dozen Mt. Langley trip reports and searched WPSMB quite thoroughly regarding Mt. Langley. Tons of info on the advantages and disadvantages of Old Army Pass (OAP) vs. New Army Pass (NAP). It seems the consensus is that NAP is the preferred route in early season when OAP is too treacherous due to snow covering the "trail." OAP is preferred once the snow completely melts. Our permits are for July 25th so OAP should be clear so I'm strongly leaning towards that route.

On final approach matters are much less clear. Supposedly the far eastern end of the "ridgeline" sometimes called a "headwall" is very tricky and scary Class 3+. The westernmost end is easy Class 2 but appears to be a longer more circuitous route which is also a sandy soul-sucking scree slog. Neither of those options seem very attractive to me.

Many people refer to one or a number of "pick your favorite" Class 2-3 routes which are more direct, mostly clean granite, challenging for a beginner, but not scary or difficult. I have found this picture of a "rock chute" on at least 4 different trip reports. Its is supposedly near the top of the ridgeline and looks like it might even be "fun" in a way and not too vertical or slippery:

http://stryker2002.smugmug.com/Mountains/Mt-Langley-Photos/30345792_MzSkt6#!i=2613916734&k=z3gjv4J[/img

same chute further back:

http://stryker2002.smugmug.com/Mountains/Mt-Langley-Photos/30345792_MzSkt6#!i=2613912958&k=nZRJFxm[/img]
further back still:

http://stryker2002.smugmug.com/Mountains/Mt-Langley-Photos/30345792_MzSkt6#!i=2613916138&k=3537BSQ[/img]

A trip report online by a Dr. Habermeyer who used a GPS to mark and track parts of the route says that the rock chute is located at the red dot. The red dot is at the top of the ridge, on the horizon, between two fairly prominent rock formations I've labeled on his photo as "RR" for "Rusty Rock" and "CF" for "Cathedral Formation" since it sort of looks like one:

http://stryker2002.smugmug.com/Mountains/Mt-Langley-Photos/30345792_MzSkt6#!i=2613913757&k=RBVSLsB[/img]

My main question is: Does anyone have a compass heading, some photos or a detailed description of how to get to the rock chute from the gap between RR and CF?

Also, I marked this photo of the ridgeline which is from way further back to get confirmation from someone who has actually been there that I'm on the right track. This photo is marked with what looks like the RR on the far left, then the CF, then the two really large formations I'll call "MF" for "Middle Formation" and "EB" for "Eastern Blocks. Is this correct? Thanks in advance for any help, sincerely, Russ

http://stryker2002.smugmug.com/Mountains/Mt-Langley-Photos/30345792_MzSkt6#!i=2613915128&k=6FXQhjC[/img]

I don't know how to make these photos show up directly without people having to click on the links - sorry!

My memory is not sufficient as to specific rock formations (though I think I do recognize the most distinctive one). But that last picture sure looks like the typical west side approach to the summit plateau--where you end up if you just follow the most well-used use trails.

If that is the case, the rock formations you have marked are not all that far apart from each other. At that point in the hike, we hiked up a the best-looking use trail in the sandy section to reach the steep rocky part in that last picture. We then found some good cairns marking an easy class 2 chute that, in about 50 feet, spit us right out onto the plateau (our chute could well have been the first 3 pics in your collection). Going to the right after crossing that sandy section (which we did at first when we failed to notice the cairns) got us into more burly class 3 that we preferred to avoid so we backtracked.

I guess what I am saying is, if you make good, thoughtful choices in terms of selecting the most trodden and logical use trails, and if you search for good cairns as you approach the rocky section, you'll probably find yourself at that class 2 chute as I think my own group did. And yes, it was short and fun for me, a relative newcomer to scrambling who otherwise is afraid of heights.

I don't recall specific rock features, either. I have climbed Langley numerous times. At first, I slogged up the sand. In more recent years I prefer to stay high on the ridge and angle to the right (more boulders, less sand) as I approach the summit. I have found it to be generally easy and fun scrambling, occasionally requiring backing off slightly to go around an obstacle. There is no use trail needed for Langley; just head due north from either pass, then choose sand (left) or boulders (right).

Thanks Akichow and Hightinerary. I'll look for the cairns when I get close enough. I've subsequently found a few more trip reports and a couple youtube videos that describe a "Class 3 scramble" that still doesn't look too difficult. If I don't find the cairns it looks like by just going left of center most people are finding multiple ways through without getting trapped.

I've done Langley several times, and you can make the last couple of miles above (Old) Army Pass either rather difficult (Class 3 & 4) or rather easy (Class 1, possibly 2). The easy way is to stay well to the left until the last .5 miles, when you turn right and ascend the last 200' or so. On the left side of Langley's ridge there is a series of "shark teeth" which are usually visible during most of this part of the hike. Head towards those, and you find mostly sandy/gravelly/small rocks. Whenever you find rock walls, you're too far right - go left. As the season goes on, they'll be multiple herd paths through this area which may help.

On the descent, remember to stay right for 15-20 minute. Resist the temptation to drop straight down unless Class 3 is your thing.

Watch for the shark teeth on the horizon of Langley's western shoulder, and head for them, before turning for the summit.

We went up and down that chute on Sunday. Going up, just after we stopped on a rock outcropping for a snack we decided to take the use path closer to the summit rather than the ones going the other way. It was between where we were sitting and the next set of boulders going across a sandy area. Another couple took the other route and had a very easy, gentle slope up to the summit. We ended up going up the chute which has a bunch of beautiful blue flowers at the top. On our descent, we wound around, trying to stay in the mid-section when we noticed at least 5-7 cairns in one area. Checking it out we realized it was marking the top of the chute...there was our blue flowers and an easy way down.

Here's what to look for at the top of the chute: [img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/ba7poh30dqdnijx/BlueFlowers.jpg[/img]

Looks like polemonium, or Sky Pilot. Said to occur only in the Sierra.

Sky pilot is a common name applied to a number of members of the genus Polemonium including Polemonium eximium which is endemic to the Sierra and others such as Polemonium viscosum which grows in similar habitat across the Great Basin, also in places worth visiting.

Dale B. Dalrymple

Yup. Like I said - "Said to occur only in the Sierra".