Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Trip reports for 2017

We were planning on doing a training hike this weekend. Our original plan was to day-hike up to Trail Camp and back, but it sounds like conditions might still be pretty snowy. What is everyone's thoughts on how far can we expect to safely get with just boots or microspikes? We're both experienced hikers, but not in snowy conditions.

Hi I think with the heat today and more snow clearing you should make trail camp if you stay on the trail and not try any thing steep. I would worry more about the soft wet snow after the sun hits the area.
From what I can see people are still using the steep section above Outpost and not following the trail on the NORTH SIDE of Outpost Camp

Mt Baldy Mark and team are heading for MUIR as they near trailcrest Mark has a shot east showing the track from below Trailcamp to close to Trailcrest .

So let's see if a track is in and everyone takes that track and the track gets deeper each day and then you are on rock ... so we see the same pattern each year a thousand tracks but not one route.

A hint if you do much cross country hiking you will always find animal tracks and most often the try follow a nice gentle slope and many times will take you to the low point on a ridge.So if then are we not ?

We did the Mountaineer's rout on the 15th, and found about 30 people who had gotten to the summit on the trail. We had climbed Russell on the 14th, and it looked like there were good steps kicked into the snow chute and people were still bypassing the switchbacks.

We're hiking the regular Whitney Trail from the portal on June 28. What do you know about the condition of the switchbacks? Also, tell me a bit about the steps kicked into the chute; were they going straight up, or were they trying to attempt a gradual grade? I appreciate your help, and thanks for your insights!

8 days out so it will be a whole new story,switchbacks may be open with snow on the lower section and the cables will have ice, lower portion of the trail to Trailside Meadow (5 Miles) should be snow free but trail could be a river in sections as we are now in the peak melt cycle,roads and bridges are closing by the day so best road reports are on

INYO COUNTY SHERIFFS FACEBOOK PAGE

Many are making the summit now since the snow is soft and they can reach trailcrest , the back side is mostly dry with a final snow area just before the summit , but if you make it that far it is not a problem.

I'm not sure how helpful this post is anymore, as conditions seem to be changing very rapidly, but who knows (also, I really appreciated reading all the post before we left). We've been up to the top of Whitney June 5-6 (2 day hike). Back then snow started just below outpost camp. We brought crampons, ice axe and trekking poles, no snow shoes. This was the correct gear set for us.

We started the first day at 8am and reached trail camp by 2pm. Due to 'heavy' overnight packs we took it pretty easy. If you have crampons it is best to leave as early as possible, since hard snow is easiest to get grip on and takes less effort compared to post holing. Also, the later in the day you leave, the bigger the rivers are that you have to cross. Do not expect to keep dry feet!

The 2nd day we started going up the chute at 3:30am. We wanted to do the chute before the sun would warm up the snow (sunrise was close to 5AM). If you have crampons and an ice axe this is the way to go (straight up the chute in the boot pack). We found this easier than the more gradual accent route. However, do take it very, very slow. You don't want to have a large increase in altitude in a short time frame, and you want to drink a lot of water to reduce the chance of altitude sickness. We didn't check, but I think we reached the top of the chute around 5:30 maybe 6AM. From there the crest trail is pretty much snow free. We reached the summit around 8-8:30AM (I had to walk the crest trail very slowly, as I was feeling the altitude). We spend a fair amount of time on top, eating and chatting with PCT hikers. We also decided to stay for a while, because we wanted to wait for the snow to get soft so we could glissade down the chute on our way back (of course you always have to watch out, but glissading down was awesome! I had my crampons and ice axe to slow me down, though you almost don't need that with the wet snow). We got back to our tent at noon, rested then packed up and headed out (~2PM). The way down was very wet, so we kinda slid down on our boots (without crampons). Once we left the snow, the trail was very wet and the rivers were pretty intense (this will probably be even worse now). Maybe it would have been better to start heading down immediately at noon, but when you are on your way down, having wet feet doesn't matter anymore. We made it back to the portal at 6-6:30PM.

For directions: in the snow we just followed the boot pack, which was very clear. The place where you could loose the trail is before the snow starts, where the trail goes from snow to river to snow to trail to river (something like that). However, if you prepare, bring a map and download an offline map/app you should be fine. There are also many people on the trail. At this moment, I would be more worried about the river crossings than loosing the trail.
During our hike we met many other hikers, some made it to the top and others didn't. Mainly day hikers didn't make it (which I completely understand... it is not an easy hike, especially not with the snow) or people who were less prepared/went up the chute too fast or just got altitude sickness symptoms (so drink water and go slow!)

This hike was the hardest thing I've ever done, but also the most beautiful hike I've ever done. Being on the ridge for sunrise was breathtaking! And the beer at the portal after the hike tasted amazing :-)

Monday, June 19th, 2017

Crossposted to a few other forums; relevant pictures can be found here: https://imgur.com/a/CeiUP

With Kilimanjaro coming in a few short weeks I really needed to get some more mental prep work done. Whitney is something that is great at being a test of your mental mettle.

On the journey out we stayed in Anaheim for a couple days prior to visit some friends. I really didn’t think much about it until the drive to Lone Pine when I was thinking about the ocean. And now the first doubts started to creep in. I had been scouring the various message boards and groups to get as much info about the trail conditions for several weeks. WIth the record snow in the Sierra’s now melting, that alone had planted the seed of doubt into my mind.

I started up the trail around 1:30AM. Instantly I had to backtrack as I left my camera back in the car. I snatched that and started to head back up again. A few minutes later I noticed that my backside was wet. My Camelbak was leaking. It was a good thing I was dropped off at the trailhead otherwise I might have packed it in. (Ok, not really) Turns out, I think at least, the connection with the tube and bladder came loose. All I know is that it didn’t present any issues for the rest of the day.

With the amount of snow the mountains received this winter the stream crossings were going to be their own mini games. The first crossing was crazy! It was pretty unsettling starting across a stream and not being able to see the bottom, nor the other side, due to the darkness. The really creepy part is the sound. It sounds angry, powerful, and downright hateful. One mistake and it is ready to send you rushing down, down, down.

I was shocked that I passed two separate groups on their way down. I made small talk with the first group, about trail conditions and the alpine start; but the second group was an Asian collection who didn’t say much.

The log bridge crossing was hairy. One of the logs broke and is angled weirdly, necessitating a leap. The water underneath the logs (just barely) is rushing by in a low rumble as well.

I had read that the snow abruptly starts right past Lone Pine lake and that was spot on. The sign stating that you need a permit to proceed was buried. I grew up on the east coast, in the lake effect snow belt of upstate NY, but was still in awe. The snow, at times, caused the trail to disappear into the night. It made for quite an ordeal in trying to follow it. There is quite a well trodden path in the snow but it can easily be missed in a few spots that transition from dirt to snow.

The waterfall by Outpost Camp was monstrous. The sound literally shook the ground as you ascended around it. I was making decent time at this point. I took the approach of just going but not overly fast. I wanted to try to maintain a decent clip but able to breath and talk.

Approaching Trailside Meadow the trail is submerged under ankle deep water for the majority of it, with some points being at mid-calf. Thankfully the gore-tex boots I have, along with the gaiters, kept my feet dry throughout this trip.
Much of the route past this point is directly over snowfields. This presented a whole new set of issues. The day before I read a triplog about how a guy fell through into waist deep water. Well, with that vision in my mind I stumbled upon the first of many cavities in the snow fields that harbored raging water. Now, not only would a spill into one of these end your summit attempt it very well could end you. If you were sucked down under the snow I can’t imagine any sort of positive outcome to that situation.

I reached Trail Camp a little before sunrise. I strapped on my crampons, pulled out my axe, and started weaving my way up the chute. The sunrise was breathtaking; just like the climb. The snow was crisp and firm making the traction easy to be had. Oxygen was the rare commodity and I fell into a routine of a few steps followed by a rest period and a few breaths. The chute took forever and a day. I managed to catch up to a couple groups, who had mercilessly been sending chunks of snow down on me throughout, right near the top. We chatted a bit about the conditions and then parted ways.

From Trail Crest to the summit the trail is basically clear. I really had to mentally force myself through this section. The altitude hit me like a ton of bricks. It wasn’t in a headache or nausea kind of way; just in a way that sapped all energy and desire to continue. This is what I came for, although I didn’t want to deal with it. I just focused on the summit hut. I went when I could, I stopped when I had to. It was slow going, but eventually I reached the base of the plateau. Typically, the main trail sweeps around the western side of the plateau but with the snow the chosen way was climbing the boulder field of the southern face (I hope my sense of direction is accurate).

The summit hut had its door blown off this winter. Inside, from the ground to the roof, was snow. I am pretty amazed that a couple people were able to survive in there, overnight, a few weeks back.

I made it back down to Trail Crest and had a decision to make; either glissade down the chute or plunge step. I decided to plunge step to play it safe. It is remarkable how fast the descent is compared to the ascent.

Upon reaching Trail Camp I ran out of water. I had brought up a full Camelbak of 100oz. I pulled up the lake and got out my filter. Turns out (and I should have tested this beforehand) that my filter was busted. So I was left with either no water or drinking unfiltered water. I chose the unfiltered water approach on the assumption that I could make 6 miles before my intestines exploded. With all the water out there I figured my odds were good. Going on a day and a half later and my stomach still doesn’t hate me.

Just below Trail Camp I bumped into a solo SAR member from Inyo County SAR. We chatted for a good amount of time about what I saw, how far I made it, my gear, etc. Apparently with all of the tragedies that have already transpired this year on Whitney they are out trying to do preventative work.
The stream crossings that were troublesome in the early morning hours were downright terrifying during the midday melt period. Thankfully I made it through them all but I am not so sure it isn’t just dumb luck.

Overall, my 4th ascent of Whitney was my most challenging to date. The conditions out there were no joke, but more importantly, the mental aspect of it was tough. It is really easy to keep going when it is a new peak, trail, etc; but when it is something you’ve seen before, it can become easy to throw in the towel when the going gets tough. The lessons and experience garnered from this adventure will last me a lifetime.

I have a question about gear: we did Shasta last year, and we did not bring ice axes. We relied on trekking poles, and that seemed just fine. We didn't glissade on the descent.

What are your thoughts on ice axes on the Whitney Portal Trail? We don't plan to glissade. Are we doing something wrong by not using them on the ascent?

Thank you for your insights!

Hi,

We assume you are referring to the popular Avalanche Gulch route on Mt Shasta. (Of course, there are many routes on Shasta, each with specific condition-driven equipment needs, including some with none...I've summited by the South routes safely in the summer with just trail runners.)

The snow chute (Trail Camp to Trail Crest) currently on the Main Mt Whitney Trail is similar to a small slice of the Avalanche Gulch route in a typical early summer. You are not "doing something wrong" by not taking a ice axe currently on the Main Trail. Rather, lack of an axe and knowing how to use just increases your risk of injury or death.

Of note, in the last several weeks at least two deaths on Mt Whitney were due to unintentionally skidding down snow without being able to stop.

This is my take on your inquiry. Maybe others see it differently.

Jim

Yesterday June 21 (Summer Solstice) reached the Summit by the Main Trail. Some details follow.

Afternoon of June 20:

Took the Old Trail (starting in back of the Portal Pond) to avoid having to cross the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, which is indeed raging as others have reported. By the way, on the Old Trail a few switch backs have been "built" to bypass where the stump of the fallen tree has been obstructing passage for a number of years. Are these switch backs a product of the recent National Trails Day (June 3)?

The 11 logs at the Lone Pine Lake creek crossing were stable and provided dry passage. Stream crossings in Bighorn Park required getting feet wet.

From the ridge above Mirror Lake to Trail Camp, the consensus route is still the snow field to the south of the Main Trail. Just before Trail Camp, this route goes through campsites at Consultation Lake (beginning to thaw) where I set up camp lakeside at the Presidential Suite. A really good Whitney Portal Store double cheese burger was enjoyed for dinner. The evening was pleasant, no mosquitos, the bear canister kept the little mice out, frequent rock fall was heard from the other side of the lake.


June 21:

The 05:30 sunrise over the Inyos cast spectacular colors on the Sierra Crest. Went through Trail Camp at 05:45 and soon worked my way up into the Snow Chute to Trail Crest where snow conditions were good. The rock band in the middle of the Chute was well exposed. All day, no hikers were seen attempting the switchbacks.

On the Back Side (Trail Crest to Summit) the trail is clear until a snow field is encountered just past the Keeler Needle. Since the Main Trail consensus path had not yet been cut through this snow field, I again relied on the Old Trail and directly headed towards the summit. The Old Trail rejoined the Main Trail a couple of hundred yards before it reaching the Summit Shelter. The Crabtree Ranger (who has arrived for the season) has not yet placed the Summit Register for those who wish to "sign in."

On descent to Whitney Portal, it seemed the water levels everywhere had risen some. For example, one of the 11 logs at the crossing at Lone Pine Lake had floated off (again), requiring walking in the creek. Also noted was an appearance of mosquitos beginning at about Mirror Lake.

It will be interesting to see how long the season goes until the switch backs "open up." For now, it is sure easy to get a primo parking spot at the Portal.

Jim

Any likelihood that the switchbacks will be partly exposed by June 29th or is that completely out of the question? Given current conditions would Yak Traks or crampons be recommended? Is water easily accessible at Trail Camp or is the lake frozen?

If you need traction, bring crampons or microspikes made by either Hillsound (preferably) or Kahtoolas if you need a minimal amount of traction. LEAVE THE YAK TRAKS AT HOME! They shouldn't even be sold. They aren't safe for use across a flat, frozen parking lot. Seriously - they create a false sense of security. If they're new, try to return them.

FYI.. I've been using YakTrax Pro style cables on Mt Baldy for the past 4 years without any complaints... Generally have 8pt crampons with
me also, but prefer YTs unless going straight up the bowl where one needs to kickstep. I'd take both for Whitney and use as the conditions warranty. Sounds like the trail from crest to summit is
mostly clear. YTs would be more comfortable on this basically level section... Just my humble opinion.
Safe and Happy Hiking, Rick

Hi Johnny Trail,

Water is available at Trail Camp. I prefer sources that run into the Trail Camp pond (no longer frozen). One such current source is a small seasonal stream about 20 yards off the end of the 9th switch back (which is now clear of snow). As the stream is above and off the trail, pinpoint its location by the sound of flowing water. However, if temperatures drop, it might be frozen at night or early in the morning.

On June 21, looking down at the switch backs from the trail near Mt Muir, I estimated that the majority of switch backs were clear of snow. I saw no hikers on the switch backs. Sometimes in the early season we try the switch backs, but find the progress so slow that we abandon the ship and traverse into the chute so we can get to Trail Crest more efficiently.

Have a great hike June 29. It would be appreciated if you could report your findings.

Jim

First timer on July 6th. Any predictions on what snow conditions may be? Will crampons still be a good idea?

With thanks to those who responded to my request for thoughts about crampons, yak traks and water at trail camp ahead of a June 29th day hike on Whitney Trail, I called the visitor center today and was told that snow still covers the switchbacks and that hikers are ascending to trail crest via the chute.

My sixteen year old son and I don't have enough snow hiking experience for me to feel that we're minimizing risk. Hiking back to the portal through the snow after sunset was also a factor in deciding to postpone for another time. Whitney isn't going anywhere. Thanks again for your advice and best wishes to those who are venturing forth.

Rather than postpone, go on up to Trail Camp, setting that as your high point goal. If you have never been on that trail before, lots will be gained from just reaching that point, and the two of you will still have a great time and maybe learn a thing or two. And you are right, Whitney isn't going anywhere, that is a given.

Here are some insights from our hike that might be helpful for those who are about to attempt the Whitney Trail.

1) The snowfields begin about a mile below Consultation Lake. You will need crampons at this point.

Before that, you will cross intermittent snow patches, but none of them are significant nor cause to make you wonder if you are on trail.

2) Most people we met on the trail did not have a map nor did they have a working understanding of where the trail went. This might ordinarily not be a big deal in a dry year, but with the upper section mostly covered in snow, this could be a big error. For example, on the stretch between Mirror Lake and Consultation Lake, I met a group of hikers who said they were returning because the snow was too tough. They pointed to the ridge they were hiking on... and it was far to the north of the Whitney Trail, and the snow track they pointed out was actually going away from the Whitney Range.

3) Another significant example of people not knowing where the Whitney Trail went occurred once arriving at the last camp before the summit, Trail Camp. Everyone I talked to assumed that the famous 99 switchbacks were merely covered by snow in "The Chute." Of course, this is wrong. "The Chute" is an alternative route just to the right of the 99 switchbacks when the latter are covered by snow.

This error might not be a big deal, but if climbing the very* steep and challenging chute is not what you want to do, then you will be out of climbing options and out of luck.

However, if you are able to identify the general route of the switchbacks, then you will be able to pull off something cool. The beginning of the switchbacks are covered in snow. The only track in the snow goes straight to the switchbacks, turning slightly to the right.

However, if you merely go straight to the rock field in front of you, you will find that the upper portion of the switchbacks (which, like all of the prior route) are free of snow. The switchbacks are easy going, and aside from a difficult stretch near the cables and a few snow patches that may require some careful navigation, the switchbacks are alive and well, hiding in plain sight.

So, my suggestion: go online and look at pictures of this ridge. The best views are from Trail Camp looking up at the route. Here's a link to one: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMjci8YqEkI/maxresdefault.jpg

The relatively gradually sloped section in the center of the picture is where the switchbacks occur. The "chute" is on the far right of this section. The switchbacks enter this section more from the lower left of this sloped section.

As you arrive to this part of the trail, you should be able to say that you recognize the terrain and notice that where the snow ends, the switchbacks are accessible (even though the snow trail merely bypasses it altogether).

I hope this is helpful. If the chute is what you're aiming for, climb on! If it is not, then consider doing your homework on the trail so you know how to access the switchbacks, even though its lower portion is covered in snow (You might also want to watch youtube videos of people's recently* uploaded hikes, and you'll be able to see what the current snow conditions on the lower switchbacks look like.)

Have fun, and know your options before you get to Trail Camp!

Thanks for posting. Great detail!

Sure wish everyone who hikes Whitney knew about this board and could see this post. Scares me when I hear peeps get lost or are climbing without gear that makes travel safer in current conditions.

We did Langley via NAP last weekend and met two girls as we descended the summit. They knew where they were going, but they climbed a couloir up Old Army which we had decided looked too dangerous the day prior since it was still holding a large cracked cornice and one of them had climbed it with just boots and poles. No way to self arrest had she fallen, I kindly told her she was nuts. I prefer reducing the risks by doing homework on route-finding in current conditions, traveling with necessary gear and getting to The Portal in time for a delicious burger!