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#102554 05/15/18 11:32 AM
Joined: May 2018
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Joined: May 2018
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Does anyone have any beta on the rappel stations above the notch? Like where they are, how far apart they are, condition of them... I haven't been able to find much information on rappelling and wonder if its an unnecessary option to get down to the notch from the summit plateau.

Im going up in early july and am under the impression the conditions will be icy in the upper chute. I was thinking about bringing up some cams and a rope for the way up and rappelling on the way down to avoid some sketchiness. Is hauling the climbing gear worth it or are there enough options to walk/climb around slick spots?

Joined: Mar 2009
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I’ve been there many times, but not recently. I’ve never used a rope or noticed a permanent rappel station. Guide services and some private groups use ropes there. Most experienced climbers just scramble up and back down, unroped.

It’s class 3 rock. That’s not very difficult by itself. Snow and ice can make it much harder and more dangerous. I’m just guessing, but I would expect you to need crampons and axe at least part of the way to the notch. Above the notch, you might or might not be able to sneak around the snow and ice.

Watch the boards for trip reports. If conditions are right, you can do the entire trip in trail runners.

Joined: Jun 2005
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It'll most likely be icy in the chute. It usually is in early July.
The ice comes from snow melt that freezes at night. Usually an ice axe is helpful to break it up enough to pass through it.

There are no set rappel stations. If you rappel you should plan on leaving your own anchors. The guides downclimb it and have clients roped up going up and down.


Kurt Wedberg
info@sierramountaineering.com
http://www.sierramountaineering.com

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