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#103922 07/07/20 04:44 PM
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Has anyone been up Cleaver Col in the last few days? Or have a sense of what conditions would be. Going to be heading over there in a few days for the first time - should I expect any snow to get up and over?

BFR #103930 07/08/20 03:59 PM
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Went up to Lower BSL several weeks ago and looked up that direction,looked dry but I would expect stiff snow/ice on the north side as it stays some years all summer.
Also I never know which route everyone calls Clever Col,some call it southeast of Tunnabora,others just south of the pothole at the end of the canyon ,just watch for the easy scramble up to the ridge above the lake and avoid the vertical crack .

Doug Sr #103931 07/08/20 04:29 PM
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Can the snow you are referring to be avoided? Do I need to bring any gear or should it be ok?

BFR #103932 07/08/20 04:43 PM
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The snow would be at the north face and as you exit down towards Wallace you may find snow /ice but most often you can scramble around the patches.Poles would help and strong boots.

Doug Sr #103933 07/08/20 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted By Doug Sr
The snow would be at the north face and as you exit down towards Wallace you may find snow /ice but most often you can scramble around the patches.Poles would help and strong boots.


Got it, makes sense. Thank you.

BFR #104424 06/08/21 11:07 AM
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Has anyone been up Cleaver Col this year? What are the conditions?

Thanks!

BFR #104428 06/09/21 09:12 AM
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If the chute you are referring to is the one at the end of the Carillon drainage (then turn left and up the chute) then my guess is it is likely dry in this low snow year. However, the top of the chute was a bit of 3rd class I think so who knows what could be hiding in the shadows.

Have not been up that chute in quite a while. The rocks, talus, etc. in that chute are very loose as I remember. With a full overnight pack was a tough climb.

JamesL #104429 06/09/21 07:56 PM
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The trick is as you enter the crack/gully/chute and the famous mounatineering term couloir don't fall for it start up and as it would turn unto 3 class bear left and walk up the slope to the ridge. This avoids the loose rock and the thin crack about 75 'up . One should fine tracks on this little bypass.


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