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Joined: Feb 2025
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Joined: Feb 2025
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We have a group of 6 who are putting in for the permit lotto this month and need to decide if we want to do it in a day hike or backpack so we know which permit to apply for. We will put in for any date in August and September. We’re in our 40’s, most of us are fairly avid hikers, usually in the 8-12 mile range, some have completed Half Dome. None of us have backpacked before, but aren’t opposed to trying it. Either way we do plan to spend a couple nights in the Portal area before we take off to help acclimate to the elevation, and will complete some training hikes at higher elevations in the NorCal area in following 6 months.

So my questions are… Do you have any advice for first timers? Have you both day hiked and backpacked it? What was better and why? Pros and cons? Thank you! :-)

Joined: Dec 2002
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You have ask the age old question , my bias is for a day hike , cuts the weight carried down to a few pound and since you are not geared up for overnight , first time overnight trip would open the door for gear choice problems , how much and what is needed , you can rent most of the gear but again what do you need and are willing to carry that weight. I think in terms of energy output over the distance .

Overnight hike again I differ from many : 3 days . Hike to Outpost first day summit the second day return to outpost and spend the night exit on day 3 . This cuts the carryweight down to about 7 miles vs 12 miles to trailcamp also allows for extra day to adjust to the elevation , carry a very light day pack to the summit . Trail camp can be windy colder and crowded. Trailcamp elevation is 12,000' so about the area many will not enjoy a restful night.

Day hike as you suggested arrive a few days early , Stop in Mammoth and if the gondoal is operating ride to the top spend some hours , Bristlecone Pine area out of Big Pine another area to get some elevation 10,000 -11,000 and see the amazing trees , spend the days high and sleep down in the valley . Horseshoe meadow drive to 10,000' short hike around . Focus on hydration and electrolytes and snacks , I don't suggest doing long hikes a few days before a Whitney hike. On the day you plan the hike think about a pace of about 1 mile per hour I know that sounds way slow but it allows an easy pace that you can maintain all day ( call the guides pace) You can increase the pace coming down but focus on the group and see how every one is doing. The hike can be 14-18 hours so going slow up gives you some reserve enery to come down.

You mentioned your group hikes are in the range that adding a few miles on training hikes should get the group ready for the distance , foucs on some long hill climbs and long down hill hikes , down hill can put pressure on your feet and lower body . Poles will offset some of the down hill pressure.


Hey last hint try to pick a full moon period , keeps you out of the sun exposure (heat) cool period before sun rise and watch the sunrise around trailcrest !

Which every you choose Whitney is a great hike for so many reasons .

1 member likes this: EmmBee
Joined: Feb 2025
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Thank you so much for all the information! And the Mammoth and Bristolcone Pines recommendations - they weren’t even on my radar. Our initial plan was day hike, but we’ve waffled a bit due to concerns of hiking in the dark as most of the recommendations I see say to start around 2am. Your feedback is definitely helpful, and we’ll make full moon dates our first choice for lotto.

Do you recommend sleeping at Whitney Portal night before or somewhere lower like Lone Pine?

Is it accurate that the Whitney Portal average high in Aug/Sept is 90’s - 100’s?

Can’t wait to reward myself at the end with burger and fries from your store!

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I am big on the rem sleep that few hours of deep sleep, I don't think you can get that sleeping in the dirt if you are not use to it and the Portal can be very busy at night people coming down and others going up , vehicle noise and car alarms often . I am not a fan of the 1-2 AM starts , most leave with little sleep and add those hours to the long day ahead can be a setup for problems.

So yes I think sleeping in town and starting between 4-5 AM . Also have everything ready in your packs and as soon as you reach the trail head park and hit the trail . Coming to the Portal the day before the hike to find the Trailhead and the parking lots will be helpful.

I should mention we can have a bear issue at the trailhead some years , the bears wait till you park set the packs out as you get ready and will take a pack same with the bathroom or the group photo at the trailhead sign , they are just after food and know the trick of waiting out of sight till someone leaves a pack . getting up the trail quickly solves that problem as the bears will stay in the campground area or around the Portal

On the full moon hikes we take hours to reach trailcamp there we take a power nap , do from trailcamp to trailcrest very slow another break as we check the group for any issues then pick the pace up to the summit and down to lower elevation spending a limited time at the upper elevation.

On the temperature our highest in 37 years is 83 degrees most often the range is upper 60's to mid 70's for a very warm day .


. As you travel up the mount you can use 4 degree drop for every 1000'. If the Portal is say 70 the summit would be low 50's but with the sun exposure effect of the sun/thin air and reflection off the granite it will feel warmer.

Nights can be cool and early mornings will have a slight breeze as the sun hits the upper elevation and create
a natural breeze , also late after noon the warm air will move up and can make the hike down a little warm . Layers will help to adjust .



The hike isn't that hard based on you experience maybe a little longer and the elevation element but you have months to build up to the distance . The elevation you can focus on as you come to the area .

1 member likes this: EmmBee

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Mt. Whitney Weather Links


White Mountain/
Barcroft Station

Elev 12,410’

Upper Tyndall Creek
Elev 11,441’

Crabtree Meadows
Elev 10,700’

Cottonwood Lakes
Elev 10,196’

Lone Pine
Elev. 3,727’

Hunter Mountain
Elev. 6,880’

Death Valley/
Furnace Creek

Elev. -193’

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