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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 76
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 76
The reason I post this message here is that some people from this community expressed interest in climbing Shasta and Rainier a couple months ago while exchanging experiences about conquering Mt. Whitney in winter.

So if anyone is interested in getting into or exploring mountaineering let me know. Whenever I say mountaineering I mean at least snow or even glacier (crevices) and ice climbing. These trips are free of charge. I learned a lot from other climbers met in mountains and want to pass my experience to those who love mountains but cannot afford to pay hundreds or thousands of dollars for commercial trips.

<a href="http://worldofadventures.com/marcus/trips/shasta/helen_lake/" target="mrd">Mt Shasta trip (29-30/31 of May, 2004)</a> is an introduction to mountaineering. No experience necessary, but you must be in a good shape. We will go the classic route through Helen Lake where we will set our base camp. It's mainly snow hiking on the slope up to 30-35 degree. No crevices, there is no glacier on this route. The elevation gain is about 7,000 feet. Surely, it's a nice work out. I will, however, teach you basic mountaineering skill, the must for more challenging climbs. You will learn and practice self-arrest, climbing w/o crampons on different slopes and snow conditions, and how to maintain the right pace to avoid high altitude sickness.

Mts Adams and Rainier are a bit more challenging. The slope may be much steeper, a lot of crevices, and possibility of rock/ice falls. The weather changes may impact the climbing challenges more dramatically than on Shasta. Therefore, you should have some glacier experience. It's crucial that you are not only in a good physical shape but also mental. You will practice bases of technical climbing. On our way, there may be many obstacles that you have to handle properly, no panic. It requires a big deal of determination and respect. I will select the routs based on your ability and skill. The rope, pickets, and ice-screws is a must.

I took before people on glaciers without previous experience (they used to hike and/or rock climb) and they were able accomplish their tasks successfully. If I recognize your ability on the Shasta trip I may let you jump ahead and climb with me other stuff. That the way I started, climbing Shasta, Hood, Rainier, and Baker in ten days. Each of them in one day and solo, except Rainier, 2 days with two climbers from Germany (could not get a solo permit at that time).

<a href="http://worldofadventures.com/marcus/trips/ntrips.htm" target="mrd">
For more information about these trips (or my experience) check out my website and/or email me.</a>

<blockquote>
Just as remainder about how dangerous mountaineering may be:

About two months ago a climber fell from the Casaval ridge, Mt. Shasta, to his death.

The last night, a climber died on his way to the hospital after being rescued from Mt. Rainier. He fell from Liberty ridge on Saturday morning.

Both climbers died from head injuries.
</blockquote>

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 252
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 252
As long as we're off topic, I'm looking for someone to do a one-day climb of Shasta, too. I used to lead Sierra Club trips there, and we did very well before they banned us locally (no accidents).

And as far as the Northwest goes, I need a partner to carpool and hike some small peaks in Southern Oregon. With maybe a quick dash up class 3 Castle Dome on the way home.

My offer of previous years to drive up to three others from Northern CA to do Whitney in a day still stands. You just enjoy the ride, and it's your choice of food and lodging (I'll camp). Up early on summit day, then give it your best shot.

All at your own risk, of course. Other peaks I can consider, too. Save fuel, save the planet!

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 128
bj
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 128
Hey guys,

If your looking to improve your climbing karma by sharing your experience or just need to find friends who enjoys the same type of masochistic adventures take a look at http://www.outdoorsclub.org/. The site has a wonderful climbing community. I've been involved for about two years and I love it.

It's free for most and cheap for Southern Californians.

BJ


Just a drinker with a climbing problem

Moderated by  Bob R, Doug Sr 

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Mt. Whitney Weather Links


White Mountain/
Barcroft Station

Elev 12,410’

Upper Tyndall Creek
Elev 11,441’

Crabtree Meadows
Elev 10,700’

Cottonwood Lakes
Elev 10,196’

Lone Pine
Elev. 3,727’

Hunter Mountain
Elev. 6,880’

Death Valley/
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Elev. -193’

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