Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board MR Route cs Main Whitney Trail

I'm heading up Whitney on September 19th this year (my second time on Whitney). I have been hearing a lot of information about the Mountaineering route, and would like to know what skills I would need to attempt it. I have climbed (hiked, for you purists ) several 14'ers in Colorado and actually prefer the shorter (read, less than 11 miles one way ) steeper trails. I've been reading that the MR route is steeper and shorter, but doable without ropes. Actually, the MR route sounds more like a Colorado peak route. Is this true?

The MR can be, and usually is, climbed without technical equipment, though you will need to use your hands and feet in a few places as there are a few sections of Class III or IV (depending on who you ask). The biggest challenge on the MR is route finding as there is not a clear path in many places. If you do a search on this site, you can find many detailed route descriptions and pictures, or you can buy Doug's book from the Whitney store and he describes it well. I have taken inexperienced climbers up this route many times with no problem.

There is plentiful water all along the route until you get to Iceberg Lake at about 12,500'. From there you will need to carry enough water to reach the summit and return. There are good places to camp along the way if you are looking to do a multi-day trip.

Having returned from the MR yesterday with my 6 children (ages 9 - 18), I could offer this perspective. There was more climbing then I remember. I think I was more aware of the climbing since I had to help my children through this area or that (guiding them through the maze of rock and telling them where to step and what to hold onto). This is especially true just above Iceberg lake and the last 400 feet to the top up the chute. My twin boys also climbed the Waterfall pitch with my 16 year old son just below Iceberg lake.

But most of it is relatively easy if you are experienced with off trail scrambling. We didn't have a rope, nor did we need one. In some places (like Upper Boy Scout to Iceberg) there are a maze of trails, so you kind of pick one. Route finding without a guide can be frustrating. Some are bothered by the exposure, on the Ebersbacher ledges and above Iceberg Lake.

But the whole route is adventerous and exciting. I would never take the trail, even if I could get a permit for it.

Congrats to you Kashcraft! What an accomplishment for all of you! One of my other posts asks why people climb and many talk about the passion their parents ignited in them for the mountains - that has to be the greatest gift a parent can give to his children! Way to go!

Question for you - when you say exposure, what do you mean? The rest sounds like what I've done before, and it sounds as if I would actually prefer that route. My favorite part of the main trail is at the top when you can veer off trail and boulder scramble to the top. Now, if I can only talk my partner into this, I'll be set!

Tucker,

When climbers mention exposure, they mean that they will be crossing, or climbing, a section where a fall will most probably be fatal. It's usually a steep drop-off (the ledges are an example; if you look at some of the photos posted to this site, you'll see the cliff that the "trail" traverses across).

That's what I thought, but I did want to make sure. Can anyone tell me how long I should expect to take to climb the MR route? I know that this is subjective to many factors, including my partner's and my fitness and ability to aclimate, but assuming they are fairly average - can someone venture a guess or three?

I really appreciate the information. I'm getting excited about this attempt. I think I'll be fine. I think Whitney main trail had the least amount of exposure of any of the mountains I've been on (I didn't even notice any on the switchbacks, and the windows were just stunning). So, I think I'll be okay with that part. Y'all have been very helpful!

Check out the great photos by Matthew Du Puy, just back from the MR. http://file.internetonastick.net/wmr2004/

They include some great photos of the EB ledges and the chute above the notch. There is even a photo of the waterfall pitch. They portray an acurate representation of the kind of exposure and climbing you will find when you get there.

Those are great photos! It's a gorgeous trail, actually. I can see how tough it can be in spots, though. I have until September to make up my mind. I am leaning towards the MR route. As I do have a permit to be on the main trail, I'm thinking maybe MR route up, the main trail down for my first time.