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I was inspired to write this thread after my 2004 hike with new people on the trail. See <a href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002276">July 10, 2004 Report</a> Q: Is the main trail hard to follow? A: Aside from the rocky sections above Mirror Lake and three forks, the trail is pretty easy to follow. Here is a synopsis of the four major sections of the trail: From Whitney Portal to Lone Pine Lake: The trail goes through the hallway of information signs, and after about 4 switchbacks the trail heads straight back for several hundred feet. After crossing Carillon Creek (with a stone path) the trail turns right and goes east about 1000 feet before turning back west at the next switchback. The trail then traverses back above the previous segment, crosses the Carillon Creek again, continues west over the trailhead, and eventually crosses North Fork Lone Pine Creek. (Ignore the cut log just before North Fork, as it is the unmarked entrance to the Mountaineers Route). Just after North Fork there is a sign for the John Muir wilderness, followed by 10 switchbacks, a traverse, and 14 more switchbacks before you head into a shaded/forested area as you approach Lone Pine Lake. You eventually will pass over another creek via a series of flattened logs and emerge into a clearing with the fork to Lone Pine Lake on your left. (Shortly after the Lone Pine Lake junction you will see a sign stating that you are entering the Mount Whitney zone and that a permit is required. You can hike up to Lone Pine Lake without a permit). From Lone Pine Lake to Trail Camp: The trail traverses across a series of flat areas/plateaus at ascending elevations with a series of switchbacks between each level. The first plateau is the Lone Pine Lake area. The second plateau is Bighorn Park where you may encounter some muddy areas on the trail. At the far end of this area is a waterfall and Outpost Camp before another creek crossing (and a solar toilet). The next level is Mirror Lake. Above Mirror Lake the trail goes above the tree line and transitions into a path carved in the rock face. In this area the trail is more rugged as you gain elevation on the knolls up to Trailside Meadows and eventually up to Trail Camp. There are several overlooks of the area as you go up and eventually you will have several views of Consultation Lake to the south. Later the view to the south will be masked by rock as you pass the solar toilet and the main part of Trail Camp (next to another small lake). From Trail Camp to Trail Crest: The trail passes through Trail Camp delineated by a rock boundary and then enters the 97-switchback area (see <a href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002169"> Wayne Pyle's map</a>). After switchback #9 there are two turns in succession that are about 90 degrees, but only the first one is enough to count (see <a href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002409"> switchback pictures</a>). Between switchback #23 and #24 (or beyond #25) there is a spring that usually has water in the summer (again see <a href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002409"> switchback pictures</a>). After switchback #45 you will enter the area with the cable railing. After switchback #97 there is a longer traverse over to Trail Crest that eventually goes a little downhill at the end (you will notice this going back). At Trail Crest there will be the back of a USFS sign (13,600 feet) followed by the front of a NPS sign for Sequoia National Park that says "Pets and firearms prohibited." From Trail Crest to the Summit: There are four main sections to this part of the trail. The first section goes on the back side of the ridge downhill to the John Muir Trail junction and continues up the right fork to the Mt Muir area (This is one of the areas with the most severe drop-off on the left side and where trekking poles can help out a lot). After passing a window, the next section of the trail goes up several switchbacks on a less severe slope (more uniform boulders) as you approach the ridgeline and traverse north. After going right around a bend the third section is more concave and looks somewhat like a lake bottom with redder rock, several rock columns, and various drop-offs along the way (more like section 1). After another bend you will enter the final concave section and see the summit in the distance. Like section 2, the drop-off to the left is less severe. Nonetheless this is the area where persistence pays off, since you are so close and yet so far away as you traverse across to the base of the peak and then hike up to the summit. While there may be shortcuts up the right side of the peak, the main trail cuts across the base (including a probable snowfield) and goes up on the left side of the peak. Trail Landmarks: As for milages on the main trail, you will find different milages for the same landmarks posted on a number of web sites. One site I checked noted that the trail is 10.7 miles long in the narrative and then said 11.0 miles in the landmark table. The main trail from the current trail head to the John Muir Wilderness sign is about 0.3 miles longer than the "old trail" (that starts at the end of the loop between the big rock and the stop sign). See the posts under <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003546">Mile Markers</A>. The following information is approximate (and based on the old trail), but it is what I remember. <font size="2">
Approx. Approx.
Milage Elevation
From
Portal
Whitney Portal 0 8,360
Lone Pine Lake (fork) 2.7 9,950
Bighorn Park 3.5 10,300
Mirror Lake 4 10,650
Trailside Meadows 5 11,300
Trail Camp 6 12,000
Trail Crest 8.2 13,600
Summit 10.7 14,495
</font>
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Q: What about the windows/needles along the upper trail? Are they safe?
A: The trail is flat and at least three feet wide in the areas next to the openings on the east face (and there are rocks/boulders next to the trail). Many windows extend several feet from the trail before they drop off. They should not be any more of a problem than the rest of the trail. Of course, trekking poles are a good idea on the upper part of the trail because of the uneven terrain.
Actually, the trail is more of a scare just beyond Trail Crest where the trail is cut into the back side of the cliff. As you descend to the John Muir Trail junction, there is a vertical "wall" on your right, a steep drop off on your left and straight ahead you can look down toward Guitar Lake (the trail curves to the right at that point so you have a drop off in your forward view). At the windows you can at least look straight ahead and ignore the side views, while you cannot easily ignore the drop off below Trail Crest. In 2004 a couple of people in our group decided to turn back after going several hundred feet beyond Trail Crest. This is an area where hiking poles can help out a lot.
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Q: Is it better to do a day hike or stay overnight on the trail? A: Both approaches have their advantages and their disadvantages. Unless you are an experienced mountain backpacker, you probably would find a day hike easier to plan. Just be sure to acclimatize before starting the trail and carry along some emergency supplies just in case something unexpected happens (See the reports <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003272">3 ladies survive the night outside</A>, <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003535">storm on July 28</A>, and <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003637">storm on August 15</A>).
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Q: When is the best time to leave the Portal for a day hike?
A: That depends on a number of factors, including the amount of time it will take you (and the rest of your group) to hike up to the summit with all of your breaks included. Certain sections of the trail are relatively smooth while other sections of the trail require some rock hopping and will slow most people down. Also, above Trail Camp it is harder for people in a group to stay together without impeding each other’s progress (since you have limited sight of the trail). As a rule of thumb, you want to plan to be at the summit by noon and leave the summit by 2PM. That gives you some extra time to play with in case your trip up takes longer than expected (most likely) and hopefully will give you enough time to avoid any afternoon storms that may materialize. For most people that means leaving the Portal before 4AM. Although that is before sunrise, there are long lasting LED headlamps on the market that use little power, and a headlamp is a good backup to have in case somebody in your group cannot make down to the Portal before dark. Also if you want to be able order a burger at the grill, you will need to leave the summit early enough to be back down by 6:45 PM to place the order.
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Q: Where can I get water or Where is the last place I can get water?
A: LOOK AT YOUR MAPS! If you don't have your maps yet buy them now. There is water all over the place to the point there shouldn't be any aniexty as you traverse the trail to Trail Camp. However, at Trail Camp you must tank up for the 10 mile round trip to the summit.
There is water on the switchbacks above Trail Camp at about 12,400' to 12,600' flowing over ~10 switchbacks but this source can be unreliable in the morning but is a great source on your return trip if you are low on water or just want something cold and refreshing.
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Q: When is the best time of the year to do a day hike? A: Most people hike the trail in the summer months, but there is always a risk of unexpected events and adverse weather no matter what time of the year you go. If you are concerned about having enough daylight and yet want to minimize your exposure to ice on the trail, July can be a good time to go. If you want to see as little snow as possible and have a long lasting LED headlamp, August or September may be a good time to go. If you want to celebrate the next anniversary of the trail, go in mid-July (The 100th anniversary was last month). Once you decide the time period to hike, you can decide if you want to have moonlight. If you would like to have the moon up in the morning when you start your hike, pick a date several days after a full moon. If you would like to have the moon up after sunset, pick a date several days before a full moon. You can also calculate moon almanac information for your date on various web pages such as: http://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/docs/RS_OneDay.html
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Q: How familiar to do I need to get with the trail before my first trip? A: It is always a good idea to team up with somebody who has done the trail before on your first hike since a number of things need to be considered as you experience the trail. If you do not have that option, a previous post by another member suggests doing a dry run day hike up the lower part of the trail (<A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001826">dry run</A>) before your main trip if you have the time. The whole idea is to not push yourself too far too fast even if you have done plenty of training hikes. As noted in recent posts, it is not hard to get a walk in permit for a day hike. You also can hike up to Lone Pine Lake without a permit and can train on the trail to Meysan Lake from the Portal. Also remember that the mountain will still be there next year.
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Q: What is the temperature like at the summit? How much clothing should I bring on a warm summer day?
A: It always is a good idea to bring a variety of light weight clothing since you never know if it is going to be cloudy or sunny at the top. Polypropylene underwear has a good dynamic range since it wicks away moisture. You can get it under different brand names such as Capilene by Patagonia at places such as REI. Be prepared to cover your head and hands if it gets cold. If you acclimate at the Portal, you can also get last minute reports from hikers hanging out by the WP store in the late afternoon.
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Q: I hike Whitney in a week any last minute advice?
A: posted September 02, 2003 01:47 PM
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Change your hours around!! I have hiked Whitney 5 of the last 6 years. We hike it for time so the moment we hit the trail its full speed. We usually start at 5:00 a.m. In general I am not good for any intense physical activity before 8:00 a.m. So the week before I leave for Whit I start to change my hours around. I will work out at 7:30 one day then 7:00 the next and so on waking up and working out earlier and earlier each day. The day before I leave its up a hill at 5:00 a.m. with a pack on for just a mile or so out and then back. Also I don't normally eat until after I work out but at Whitney I am trying to get something down at 4:00 a.m. before the hike, both food and water. So each day on that last week I am trying to get something into my body before I work out.
I feel that if you wake anyone up at 3:00 a.m. throw a pack on them, stuff them full of food and water and throw them into intense physical exercise, that person is going to feel horrible at sea level much less at altitude. With the hours changed around it also makes it alot easier to fall asleep early the night before the hike. This has helped me greatly and I am ready to crank when my boots hits the dirt. I am now 42 and this has help better my time dramatically over the years from over 16 hours the first time to 14 the next to under 9 the following two years. Last year we came in at 7:44. Shooting for sub 7 next week.
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Q: What is the temperature going to be on a given date?
A: This is one of the most irrelevant question first timers ask. The question you should be asking is what should I do to protect myself from wind, rain, hail, snow, slush and a mean old electrical storm.
The temperature is what it is. It can be 60 F on the peak 5 straight years on 9/3 but 22 F in year six. You can easily prepare yourself for temperature but not for weather conditions, as those mentioned above.
The Mt. Whitney Trail is so close to the Sierra Crest you do not see the weather developing on the Great Western Divide until you reach Trail Crest in many instances, so it behooves you to be prepared for the worst conditions. You don't want to run down The 97 Switchbacks in a t-shirt and shorts in middle of August being pelted by pea sized hail as the sky rumbles, I've seen this a few times at a couple Sierra passes in the middle of the summer.
Bill
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Q: Does the Whitney Portal Store sell groceries?
A: Aside from the grill, the food items in the store are mostly cold beverages, energy bars, and snacks. There is a small supermarket in Lone Pine (Joseph’s Bi-Rite) if you need to buy other food. On our last trip we did not bring along a lot of food, and ate all of our evening meals at the Whitney Portal Store grill. It was a lot more convenient considering the bear activity in the area.
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Q: What items are on the WPS grill menu? A: For breakfast you can get a huge “10 inch” pancake for about $3 and get eggs for a few dollars more. For lunch and dinner you can get hotdogs, burgers, and chicken sandwiches. The burgers are huge, come with fries, and cost around $8. The chicken sandwiches also come with fries and cost about $9. It is very convenient, but remember that grill orders are not taken after 6:45 PM (or 75 minutes before the store closing depending on their most current schedule). Please Note: The store hours listed on the home page are no longer correct. They changed in 2004 (after the web page was first created) and were never updated (as of July 2005). The summer hours in July 2005 are 8 am to 8 pm (with grill orders ending at 6:45 pm). You can also see a recent post on <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003430">Portal Store/Food</A> and a post on <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003420">WPS showers</A>.
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Q: How long will it take to hike/climb Whitney?
A: Plan on anywhere from 10 to 20 hours. Seriously. It really depends on your physical fitness, how you handle altitude, and how frequently you stop. Another factor you have to consider is your hiking companions. The man who organized my first trip was fabulously fit, hiked many many miles on average and climbed Mt Dana to see how he would handle altitude. He summited, then on his way back, where the trail ascends again (groan) he sat for 45 minutes, trying to figure out how to tie his shoes. The trip down was interesting to say the least.
I've seen a number of posts saying that 12 hours is the average. But, for some reason, most of the people I talk to say the first time took them 15-18 hours, including time at the top - and they have been at altitude, and they hike a lot. So plan on a longer hike, and if you do it quicker, fabulous.
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Q: Is it good to take along trekking poles? Will ski poles or a long stick work instead? A: There are a number of posts on the topic at the following thread on <a href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002503">Trekking Poles</a>. It pretty much depends on whether you view hiking as "recreation" or as "work." People who hike for recreation buy trekking poles to make the trip less work. From my experience, I have hiked the trail three times with a single ski pole and once with a pair of adjustable trekking poles. Going uphill it seemed a little easier to walk fast with two poles. At the same time, I had to be careful not to trip on my poles when going downhill (so one pole may be better going downhill). I certainly would not do the upper trail beyond Trail Crest without at least one pole because of the uneven terrain. The pole(s) can also come in handy in a pinch. My suggestion is to try using a set of old ski poles (or a single ski pole, from a garage sale or a thrift store) before you buy a set of expensive trekking poles. If you like using two ski poles, then consider the alternatives. Collapsible trekking poles are a lot easier to carry on your pack and adjust to fit the slope/terrain. In addition, the more expensive poles are made of lightweight titanium alloys and come with spring-loaded shock absorbers. As noted in <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003579">hiking poles</A>, you can even buy mislabeled trekking poles at WalMart at a discounted price. Fred
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Q: What types of restaurants are there in Lone Pine? How about lodging? A: The High Sierra Café (formerly PJ’s) is known for its 24-hour service. The Mount Whitney Restaurant has a lot of b&w photos on the wall from the movie days. There is a Pizza Factory restaurant in town as well as restaurants from two fast-food chains: McDonalds and Carl’s Jr. There are several posts on the subject of lodging such as <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=003495">LP Lodging</A> and <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003276">Lodging Recommendations</A>. A topic in <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001043">2003</A> has a list of motels and phone numbers in a post near the bottom. The Comfort Inn is the newest motel but it is not in the center of town.
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Can I drive my SUV up there?
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Q: Are there any training aids on the trail besides member pictures? A: There is a video produced by Peter Wagenleitner at <a href="http://www.hikealongvideo.com/Whitney.html">Trail Video</a> that is available for about $20. You can also look at a member post on the subject at <a href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002552">Whitney Video</a>.
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Q: Is there cell phone coverage in the area? A: Here are some previous posts made on the subject in <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002949">2005</A> and in <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001888">2004</A>. Service in the area has improved in recent years. Here is some additional history from my experiences. In 1994 somebody in our group with an analog phone could call from the summit. In 1999, I borrowed a Pacific Bell digital phone from a friend and had no coverage, but somebody at the summit was able to make calls with AirTouch (which ironically was once owned by Pac Bell). In 2000 I bought a tri-mode (digital CDMA and analog) phone with a national calling plan from AirTouch right as it was merging with GTE and Bell Atlantic under the new name Verizon. AT&T wireless was also coming out with national plan service (and had an IPO early that year). Pacific Bell eventually merged with Cingular and recently AT&T wireless merged with Cingular. When I upgraded my Verizon tri-mode phone in 2004, the agent was able to show me a map of the digital coverage zones around Lone Pine on his computer. While I was only able to get analog service from the summit in 2000, I was able to get good digital coverage in 2004 from near the edge of the cliff. Even though I had good signal strength, it still took several attempts to make a short phone call, most likely due to the limited capacity of the circuit. If you do take a cell phone with you to the summit, please practice good etiquette. Do not turn it on until you need it, and keep your calls short.
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Hi Great list of Q&A'S Thanks Doug
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Q: What are the closest airports to Lone Pine? A: Here are some posts from other members on the subject: <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002814"> flying in from east</A>, <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000141">flight options</A>, and <A href="http://home.earthlink.net/~bclk/directions.htm">more info</A>. You have your choice of coming in from the north or coming in from the south. You have a lot more options if you come in from the south, but the terrain is mostly desert and can get HOT on summer days (particularly in Death Valley). The route from Reno is longer but is generally at higher elevations and more scenic. You also can make stops in Lee Vining or Mammoth Lakes and make side trips to Mount Dana and Yosemite NP (if Tioga Road is open). AAA members can also get information on the area between Bridgeport and Lone Pine with their Eastern Sierra Guide map. There also is limited bus service from Reno Airport to Lone Pine (via Bishop) and from Ridgecrest (near Inyokern Airport) to Lone Pine. For more information check on the <A href="http://www.inyocounty.us/transit/CRESTpage.htm">CREST web site</A>. You would still need to work out transportation to the Portal from Lone Pine. Whitney Portal is about 12 miles west of (and about 4,600 feet higher than) Lone Pine. Here are the approximate distances of various airports from Lone Pine along with some airport information links. I stopped at Palm Springs, since it is about the same distance away as Reno. I also included some general aviation airports that are closer than Inyokern. As noted in the other posts, the driving times are affected by a number of factors besides distance. I-405 and I-5 can get pretty jammed during rush hour, and I-15 can get a lot of traffic as well. Commercial airport north of Lone Pine Reno (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KRNO">RNO</A>) – 257 miles (US-395) Commercial airports south of Lone Pine Inyokern (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KIYK">IYK</A>) – 70 miles (US-395) Bakersfield (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KBFL">BFL</A>) – 165 miles (Cal-178, Cal –14, US-395) Burbank (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KBUR">BUR</A>) – 197 miles (I-5, Cal-14, US-395) Ontario (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KONT">ONT</A>) – 197 miles (I-10, I-15, US-395) Los Angeles (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KLAX">LAX</A>) – 215 miles (I-405, I-5, Cal-14, US-395) Las Vegas (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KLAS">LAS</A>) - 224 miles (I-215, I-15, Nev-160, Cal-190, Cal-136, US-395) Long Beach (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KLGB">LGB</A>) – 232 miles (I-405, I-5, Cal-14, US-395) Orange County (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSNA">SNA</A>) – 237 miles (I-405, Cal-55, Cal-91, I-15, US-395) Palm Springs (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KPSP">PSP</A>) – 259 miles (I-10, I-15, US-395) General aviation airports Lone Pine (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/O26">O26</A>) – 1 mile Independence (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/2O7">2O7</A>) – 16 miles (US-395) Bishop (<A href="http://www.airnav.com/airport/KBIH">BIH</A>) – 60 miles (US-395)
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