Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board OT: Scheduled for my Mount Washington climb!

I'm finally taking the plunge into winter mountaineering! Yeah..it's a baby-step..just over 6000 feet..but it IS the home of some of the worst weather in the world. Originally I wanted to do a 3-day overnight mountaineering course but my schedule won't accommodate it..so I'm just doing a single-day guided ascent with Eastern Mountain Sports out of North Conway, NH.

Getting together all the equipment and clothes has been half the fun I can definitely say I'm outfitted correctly..although I will be using EMS rental boots (I guess they are plastic ones) and crampons.

I'll post some pictures and a trip report when I get back later next week (my "attempt" day is Tuesday).. The weather has been pretty ferocious up there the last couple days..so I'm hoping for a break early next week.

Current conditions:

Outside Air Temp: -15F
Windspeed: 84 mph
15 Minute Gust: 95 mph
Wind Chill: -53F

Wow!

BeachAV8R

Awesome, Beach! Sounds like you've taken a wise approach with using a guide. Can't wait to hear your report. My only concern is, since we seem to be hiking the same routes, now I have to plan a trip to NH. Looks like I need to use some Southwest Airlines award tickets...gee, I'll just need to explain to my family that it's Chris' fault.

Good luck!

Beach and Mark...
I have some experience with Washington... which route are you going up???? Huntington's, Tuck's or Lion's Head? Any way you go, it's going to be awesome. I was there in December and it was amazing looking. Since then, there has been 3 significant snow storms, including one this past week. If you type in "tuckerman" and "avalanche" into yahoo you'll be able to find local avalanche info and some pics of recent conditions. Good luck and take some pictures. For fun, drag a sled along and drop it off at the base of Washington. Then, on your hike out, take the sled down the trails and use your ice axe as a break...that can be REALLY fun:) Just make sure to take your crampons off first!
Gusto

Chris,

Sounds amazing, especially for a first winter experience.

I just hope you trust these guys and they've outfitted you properly. (I know you said you are.) While one can die on any mountain, in -53 degree conditions, you're margins are razor thin. Way thinner than say on Mt. Whitney in the winter.

For example, one of my colleagues once exerted himself heavily while on Whitney in the winter and burned his lungs because he was panting in the extreme cold. Not good. But, nothing compared to what you could potentially face.

And don't forget "Into Thin Air": Lose your gloves in that 80+ mph wind, and you can lose your hands. Do you have hooks on your hardshell sleeves so you can clip your gloves on? (Not that you would want to ever take them off, but you never know.) And bring more than one spare pair - just in case!

Or am I just being paranoid? Seems like everyone's pretty casual about going up there. But I remember reading about a SAR mission where a couple of the rescuers lost their lives and the two young guys they were trying to save lost parts of their bodies. Not anything to take lightly doesn't seem to me.

Love to hear how it goes!

Thanks for the suggestions and concern. I would hazard to say that if the winds and temperatures are extreme the guide would cancel the hike. When I called up there the other day he said nobody was heading for the top.

I'm definitely taking spare gloves. I have a great pair of Mountain Hardware expedition type gloves that have removable inner linings...plus I'm going to carry expedition mittens just in case I need extra protection. For the upper half I have expedition weight thermals from REI, an Arcteryx shirt, a down North Face Nuptse jacket that zips into a North Face Mountain Light Parka with a hood. Face mask, balaclava and snow googles are mandatory per the guides instructions.

The only thing I'm sketchy about is the plastic boots..I've never worn that type so it will be interesting to see how they feel.

Looks like they are about to get a bit more snow up there over the weekend...hope it clears out for early next week. Even though this course is just a license to learn I hope I can make it out to Whitney maybe next winter and try out a hike out there...

Regards...
BeachAV8R

PS - I'll take lots of pictures!

Beach,

Did this trip in March of '93 using the EMS guys in N. Conway. They are well qualified and will not take undue risks. If they say no, believe them.

My concerns are abated because you are using a guide. Most of the people that get into trouble are without guides. Avalanches are frequent occurrences on Washington on any of the three primary routes.

If you have never used plastic boots, try finding a pair of ankle weights and wear them around for a day with the stiffest boots you have. This will indoctrinate you into the experience. Also, go with multiple light layers, we went up the Lion's Head route and there are a couple of sections that are very steep and you will work up a good sweat. Remember too that you are further north and hours of daylight are less up there and the guides will insist on getting down before sunset.

This was a great experience and one that I have often wanted to repeat. Good luck and be safe.

BeachAV8R,

I went up mt. Washington with an EMS guide right before New Years. We left Pinkham Notch around 9:30-10 and were on the summit at 12:30, and back around 2-2:30.

They know what they are doing so don't worry about it. My guide (and I think most of thier guides) is part of the search and rescue.

I think you would probably do the Lion's Head (winter)Route, that way you wouldn't have to cross any avalanch paths.

When I was on the summit the windspeed was 58mph and I found it almost impossible to walk. I was getting pushed back by the wind at times. However it was worth I.

Don't expect to see much from the summit because visability usually is not too good, but it has an awesome view on the way up or if you pick a good day, Have Fun