The view from up on the Switchbacks on Groundhog Day, 2007.If ..."> The view from up on the Switchbacks on Groundhog Day, 2007.If ...">
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Joined: Jun 2003
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<img border="5" src="http://piotrowski.smugmug.com/photos/127867132-M.jpg" align="left">The view from up on the Switchbacks on Groundhog Day, 2007.

If you look carefully, you'll see that the Switchbacks zig-zag across the bulge in the lower, right-hand corner. Gives you a little bit of perspective on how steep the terrain up here really is.

I was thinking how much of an engineering marvel the Switchbacks are and was wondering whether they purposely built them where they are because the steep terrain had probably already shed most of the rock that will flake off.

Consultation Lake (right of center) is finally covered in a blanket of snow.





















It's getting to the point that I've done almost all of the "easy" stuff that's possible to do on Whitney. I wanted to get in a February ascent (to keep the streak alive) while conditions were easy, but also wanted to do something different. I knew that we were close to the full moon, and when I looked up the cycle on the Naval Observatory site, discovered that it would happen in Lone Pine at 09:46pm on Thurday, February 1, 2007. Since I planned on heading up to the Portal on Thursday, why not make an attempt at a Winter Full Moon Ascent?

Reports had led me to believe that only about two inches on new snow had fallen with the recent storm. I should have known that this wasn't true when I noticed that the drive up 395 had me seeing snow down into the five thousand foot level.

I stopped in Lone Pine for some food and coffee and then headed up the Whitney Portal Road. Things still didn't register when I noticed that I was driving past, and through, snow WAY down in the valley.

From about the turnout up, there was snow on the road. Several vehicles had passed, so it was almost easy for me to follow the tracks up. (The poor little Sentra didn't have the ground clearance required to keep from scraping on the high spots between the tracks. Car scaping? Two inches of snow?????)

I was actually having a lot of fun barreling up the road. I made it almost to the "famous photos switchback" before I completely lost traction. Since I couldn't park in the middle of the road, (I knew 4WD would make this easy.) I had to back down. Below the Meysan Lakes Trailhead parking area, I was able to move forward again and just punched the car into the snow drifts at the side of the road. (Five, or so, inches deep.)

I was on my way at about 09:28pm.

Here are the stats for the climb (I left the data in Military Time):

21:28 Leave Car At Meysan Lakes Trailhead
22:30 North Fork Of Lone Pine Creek
00:43 Outpost Camp
04:00 Trail Camp
11:03 Trail Crest
14:34 Mt. Whitney Summit
14:38 Leave Mt. Whitney Summit
17:18 Trail Crest
18:45 Trail Camp
20:33 Outpost Camp
22:29 North Fork Of Lone Pine Creek
22:52 Whitney Portal
23:11 Arrive At Car

Yeah! You're right, it wasn't a Day Hike. It took nearly TWENTY-SIX HOURS for the round trip!

I had figured on 07:00 for the summit, at the outside, if I was having a bad day. I was over seven-and-a-half hours slower than that!

Like I mentioned in another thread, I was able to follow tracks to about the elevation of Trailside Meadow. Beyond that, it was all me! smile

I hadn't used a headlamp at all, so when I ran out of moonlight, as it dipped behind Trail Crest, I decided to take a break and wait for daylight. I was surprised to see that my light down jacket was enough to keep me warm at about 12,400.

It was a little after 06:00 when I started climbing again.

When I got near the Cables, I stopped to eat and put on crampons. I should have known what I would be in for when the approach to the Cables turned out to be more sketchy then I would have liked. The crossing was interesting. The terrain above became a game of keeping the "pucker factor" under control. It was real interesting. (I keep using that word. I'd tend to substitute scary.)

When I was within a couple of hundred feet of the last long switchback to Trail Crest, I started wishing that I had a copy of Wayne Pyle's Switchback Spreadsheet. The drifted snow made it difficult to tell where they were and I finally lost them completely.

By this point, I really was too scared to continue a straight-line ascent up, so I headed on a traverse on a "weakness" that I thought would hold good snow. This turned out to be mostly true, but eventually, I reached the mixed snow conditions of the bowl. By mixed, I mean I was able to stay on top at times, sink to my knees at times, sink to my waist at times, and sink up to my chest at times. The big drops required backtracking out of the hole and finding another path.

On the last hundred feet to Trail Crest, I'd say I almost quit about a million times.

Wind at Trail Crest made trying to eat and drink a pain.

All I have to say about the trip up and back to the summit is: POSTHOLING FOR TWO MILES AT 14,000 feet. If you think about how hard this terrain feels under summer conditions, multiply the effort required by several times and then maybe a couple more. It was hard!

The summit was actually too warm to be comfortable. Since it was late, I tried to be as fast as possible in signing the register and tagging the benchmark. It took over four minutes to do these two tasks. I WAS getting tired.

I had been thinking that some of the traverses to the summit had been "you slip, you die" terrain. On the way back, I was "lucky" to find that this wasn't the case. A posthole that I had created on the way up collapsed when I weighted it. As instinct forced me to react to save myself, my mind was thinking that it was all over. I punched my heels down into the snow as I started to slide and caught the edge of the trail. I could see (thru three layers) my heart causing my shirt to thump. Needless to say, I started moving a LOT slower and much more deliberately.

On my way back, I had decided that I would do the snow slope directly to Trail Camp, rather than retracing my steps.

I ran out of daylight about three-quarters of the way down.

Shortly thereafter, I saw what I thought was a UFO over the Inyos. I stopped and stared for the longest time. I finally realized that it was the moonrise.

This was only the first of many hallucinations that I would experience. (Remember, by this time I was going beyond thirty-eight hours with no sleep.)

I don't remember much of the way down below Trail Camp. I do remember thinking that I was seeing the set of "Close Encounters of the Third Kind" as I approached it.

I couldn't believe how many people I was seeing on the trail, only to find that it was another hallucination.

I do believe that I did quite a bit of sleepwalking on the way down. (My parents told me stories about how I would get up out of bed and check to see that the doors were locked, so I know I've done it in the past.)

I'd say that I wanted to just lie down and go to sleep at least a hundred times. I knew I had the gear to survive, but didn't know if I had the will to put it on, so I just kept pushing for home.

Someone stole my McDonald's coffee cup that I left at the last running water just below Mirror Lake.

Reaching the Portal felt miraculous!

I couldn't believe that there was a very goodlooking cheerleader cheering me on as I headed down the road to my car. Another hallucination. It was the 15mph sign just before the "famous photos switchback."

When I got back to the car (11:11pm - auspicious numbers!), I realized that I was wet on the right side from having blown out the zipper of my pants on that side. I stripped off my gaiters, boots and pants and slid into my synthetic sleeping bag, knowing that I'd dry out inside. I was out cold in seconds!

I slept for nearly twelve hours solid, only rolling two times. I didn't get out of be until 04:00pm.

Side Notes:
-----------
- I later learned that Rick Kent and Len Lochmiller had a conversation right outside of my car on Saturday morning. Len even rapped on the window. No reaction from me.

- Len had thought that I had headed up the North Fork early. He went up thinking that I had a tent up there for him. He ended up doing an open bivouac at Iceberg Lake.

- I ended up going better than 43 hours with no sleep (a new personal record).

- This beats my slowest ascent by 4, or so, hours.

- I think I'm going to try and start a new trend with the people who like to do drugs. The hallucinations that I experienced due to sleep deprevation were pretty cool. And, as long as you're not operating any machinery, I don't think it's nearly as dangerous as drugs. Hike at your own risk though.

- Some people have already asked me why I do these types of things. Hey, it may seem stupid, but in my mind, this sort of thing builds confidence that I can handle the setbacks that may occur on an expedition. That's a good enough answer for me.

Photos are at: http://piotrowski.smugmug.com/gallery/2438404

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Congrats on a new 43 hour ( no sleep) PR. As a ultra runner I have had plenty of wierd mind tricks , I ran from badwater to whitney last year in 51 hours.Your mind plays lots of tricks on you, thats half of the challenge. As to Why we do these things? the short answer is, as Ed Viesturs would say," If you have to ask you would never understand."

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Amazing Richard...you musta been scared...only 12 photos..and your handwriting in the summit register looked like you were really concentrating compared to March 27th :p

Seriously..great job..and thanks for taking us along with the report. Sounded...uh..interesting there on the switchbacks. Glad I could read it from the safety of my desk here! No wonder I was worried about you..you must have been sending out the "oh crap" vibe over 2000 miles! Glad you're back safe...

The full moon is why I planned our Telescope trip on March 3rd.. smile It's nice to move around at night without having that blasted headlamp on huh?

Get some sleep..!

Chris

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Damn! 7 hours from Trail Camp to Trail Crest? Holy crap! Talk about staying focused. You must have an iron will.

Ugh. I'm tired just reading your report.

Like Len I too was puzzled when you apparently were not in your car. On Sat & Sun the more I thought about it the more I wondered if I might get back to see messages regarding your demise. But then I kept telling myself, hey, it's Richard. He wouldn't do anything silly.

So are you ready to go again this next weekend? heh! Maybe we could hit all the needles along the way. smile

Congrads on such a challenging "dayhike". And that above photo is fabulous!

-Rick

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Great job Richard, The next time I hear John Denver's "Rocky Mountain high" I will think of your trip and Whitney. Thanks

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Hmmm... When I met you last summer you didn't LOOK insane...

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Richard, Great to see you can post re. your 'solo' temptation of the mountain. Please don't take this the wrong way, but you have violated one of the rules of backcountry travel, especially under adverse conditions--going SOLO--. Please address this before your 'guru' status encourages others to attempt same, perhaps not with your abilities, and have a very different outcome...............steve


When I get a little money, I buy books; and if any is left I buy food and clothes.
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Certainly for an average hiker going solo in mid-winter would not be recommended. With upwards of 60 ascents however few know the mountain better than Richard. When we go solo we assume the risk and the outcome. I don't think Richard has a death wish. I'm sure he was far safer than his report may indicate. For the average hiker though the standard disclaimer applies:

WINTER MOUNTAINEERING CAN BE DANGEROUS. DO NOT ATTEMPT. YOU MAY DIE.

Ok, a little much, but it gets the job done.

-Rick

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Hey Richard, I assume you were on snowshoes until Trail Camp right? Or did you just force your way up without them? Also, how was the snow slope? Postholing most of the way down?

-Rick

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Great TR, Richard! Glad to see you're back safe.

-Dave

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Richard, I love ya, babe, but that's INSANE! smile Now I really am glad that I stayed in the lala land area for some fun this past weekend. Congratulations on a wicked summit. What a feat! Looks like I'll have to wait until April before it'll be at my level, maybe over on the MR? I'll start doind a snow dance so we can go play.

As for the solo part, well, this was extreme. But as I sit here I'm planning my solo trip this summer. All I can say is: preparation, preparation, preparation. That's the best you can do. I agree with RickK: WINTER TRAVEL IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. DO NOT ATTEMPT OR DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU MAY DIE. You could also roll out of bed the wrong way, fall back and crack your gourd open on the corner of the nightstand.

-Laura 8)


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RichardP,

Congrats on your very stout Feb ascent. A 9:30pm start gives a whole new meaning to a “Piotrowski Start” smile I agree with RickK’s comments about your iron will to continue slogging for sooo many hours and thru so many suffer points. Loved all those hallucinations.... Cheerleaders LOL. Great stuff!

Cheers,
RickG

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Richard, Richard,....

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Richard, great climb.

I generally think of the mountain as unclimbable around this time of the year....primarily due to the unconsolidated snow that generates severe postholing. That isn't to say that some people could not do a siege-type expedition climb, but why?

However, your climb should be in it's proper context...extraordinary.

One could find fault with going solo, however, I don't. And that is because I know that you were prepared for different eventualities should something have gone wrong. I'm sure that you were prepared to set up a bivy at any point, if that had been neccessary. I'm sure that reliable people knew where you were, and knew when to launch a search, if you didn't call in.
I think you have adequately scouted the mountain previously. smile

Yes, solo slices the margin of error to a very thin slice, in these winter conditions. But you are mountaineering at a level in which, as long as you use your good sense, the calculated risk is reasonable.

However, the mountain is ripe for an accident.....the front coming in will likely dump some significant snow, and apparently the base is such, that it is perfect for avalanches. A real large accumulation is likely to generate some very large avalanches, of which we see evidence in a variety of places...I'm particularly thinking of the chutes off Thor. But with this crazy weather year, who knows?

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Simply amazing Richard! I wish I had a cheerleader cheering for me when I finshed smile

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Richard

An amazing TR! You are one tough mountaineer! I like to write quotes...here is one for you.

"Testing one's limits may create a risk factor but it is the only way to find out what you are truly capable of." mc


"The mountains are measured for their height but the achievements of one who climbs the mountains are immeasurable." m.c.
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Richard -- you're really tough, really persistent, and I'm really sorry to hear about your stashed Mcdonald's coffee cup.

I think I can explain that last item. You were out of town and missed the great review of Mcdonald's coffee in Consumer Reports. Those cups are valuable souvenirs now!

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/food/coffee-taste-test-3-07/overview/0307_coffee_ov_1.htm

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Wow. It is amazing you would be willing to stick it out that far and long in winter conditions. The pictures are breathtaking.

Thinking back, it seems you have been on long winter ascents before. I remember another extended hike with Rick Kent.

That must say something about you. Either you are superman, or you try not to remember painful hikes from the past. We all love this stuff, the stuff Whitney legends are made of.

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Hmmm... When I met and hiked with you two summers ago you didn't LOOK insane...

Only 4 minutes on the summit??
Something wrong with the work-versus-reward ratio in that number...

The 7 hours from Trail Camp to Trail Crest really got my attention. I caught myself uttering an involuntary gasp! when I saw that!!

But Bob R's response pretty much says it all (I laughed so hard when I read that).

BTW, my record for sleeplessness (not hiking) is 52 hours (when I was younger, I had a night shift job -- 6pm-6am, and stayed up during two consecutive days between working nights when I should have been sleeping instead). If I had to do that again, I'd rather do it hiking.

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Mike: you had a cheerleader this past weekend! smile She just happened to be dressed in REI winter pants and a bright orange jacket!!

*SWAK*
-L


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