Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Cottonwood Pass to Old Army Pass - Conditions?

I am planning to leave Friday morning from Horseshoe Meadows, heading up to Cottonwood Pass and then over to Soldier Lake for the night. On Saturday, I'm hoping to head east to tag Cirque and then Langley and then camp in the Cottonwood Lakes basin. From what I've read on this board, it sounds like New Army Pass is not an option for descending to Cottonwood Lakes. How is Old Army Pass? Still covered with snow? I'm thinking of bringing an ice axe to glissade down Old Army. Are there any portions of this route where crampons would be advisable or necessary?

In general Old Army pass has snow and ice much latter into the season, since it is north facing and more in the shade.

New Army pass is south facing and drys out sooner. Recently a report said there was still a cornice toward the top. New Army pass is close to High Lake, I believe and not far from Cirque peak.

Here is a picture of Cirque Peak taken last weekend by Rick Kent. To the right of Cirque peak is the area the New Army Pass trail goes up.

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=53218"> Cirque Peak photo</a>

One would expect the New Army pass trail coming up from the east side to be fairly dry by now. Once on the top of the ridge you would do Langley first, and then Cirque peak next.

After you do Cirque peak it doesn't make sense to go back toward New Army or Army pass. That would be further.

It is more direct to come down south of Cirque peak somewhere along the ridge in the photo.

Actually, this photo is of New Army Pass, directly in the center, and there is no snow on it.
http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=53223

New Army is always passible before Old Army. You should definitely climb Langley before Cirque, if you are coming up from Soldier Lake, otherwise you are doing a lot of backtracking.

That may not be quite accurate. I believe New Army Pass is just to the far left in that last photo. I was hoping to get up to Cirque Peak so I could provide some good photos of New Army Pass as I have done in previous years:

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewer.asp?FolderID=405">New Army Pass 6/22/03</a>

Unfortunately I didn't get that far. This is the best photo I got:

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=53226">New Army Pass 6/17/05</a>

If you look at the full size version of the photo a sizeable cornice is visible along the top of the ridge.

-Rick

After looking at my last photo I realize that there's a fair amount of detail when zoomed in (7 megapixel is coming in handy). Here's the same photo blown up:

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=53283">[img]http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/sendbinarydb.aspx?ID=53283&width=500[/img]</a>

and a link to several versions of the photo:

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewer.asp?FolderID=406">New Army Pass 6/17/05</a>

For either New or Old Army Pass, I would definitely bring the ice axe and possibly crampons. Things may still be a bit icy. I say possibly because in Bear's case if you're only descending with a glissade you won't be wearing them. That said, if it's too icy it would be preferable to walk down with crampons on. If you're not comfortable with steep slopes you may not like either of these. As I recall last year I actually downclimbed some of the steepest portion of Old Army facing into the chute so that I could take advantage of my front points. With conditions as they are, Old Army Pass is probably preferable since you usually don't have to deal with a cornice.

For reference, here's what Old Army Pass looked like in May of last year:

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=34549">[img]http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/sendbinarydb.aspx?ID=34549&width=500[/img]</a>

-Rick

Ken,
If I am not mistaken, Your very fine picture of NAP shows the pass on the left side of the picture- not the center- and it does show a lot of snow and a cornice. When you blow them up to full size and look close, there are two cornice sections and the trail over the pass goes up and over on the right section- near that one big round boulder. We were the first tracks over 2 years ago- after a mild winter- on June 24. My friend, who just got back, but took no pics, said that there was a massive cornice at NAP- not do-able yet, but it might be possible to go to the far left and x-country it a bit.
BTW, What camera are you using?- 7 megapics huh? nice job!
Mark aka markskor

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Here's a bit of trivia that might help in getting up-to-date trail conditions for NAP:

Two years ago (not as much snow that year), we saw a guy coming down the NAP trail carrying a shovel. He said he was digging out the top of the pass.

When we got there the next day, you could see where he had shovelled out the path through the cornice, but didn't quite finish. We traversed right before the last switchback or two (in front of a large, house-sized, prominent block).

Later, I asked at the ranger station if they were with the FS. The ranger replied that they probably were working for one of the horse packers that used that trail and who wanted it open for July 4 business.

So, you might be able to call the pack outfits in the area and see what they say.

Bill Law
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How 'bout the Cottonwood Lakes? Anyone know if they're thawed, even partially? Thanks.

Apparently my mistake! You know what this means: I'm definitely not getting up there often enough to refresh my memory.

On a happier note, led a backpacking trip about 10 miles west of Kennedy Meadows, and was pleasantly surprised by the lack of mosquitos!

Olancha in essentially free of snow.

We were up at Cottonwood lakes 6/24 and 6/25. The lakes are thawing. The meadows are a little damp, but plenty of dry campsites.Glisading down Old Army is not an option at the moment because of the features in the snow. We ascended the pass with ice axes and crampons around 10:00a.m(topped out).Went over to Langley and then descended the pass around 1:00pm. Snow was very soft by this time and coming down the near vertical sections was a little hair raising. We actually had to back down about 75% of the way. Partner took a 75ft slide before he was able to self-arrest.Considerably more snow present than what is shown in the picture posted from last May.Weather was fantastic, overnight temp hit 33.