Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Easiest Way up Mt. Russell

After departing the portal at 4:00 am on May 24th we went up the North Fork and tried to make it to Ice Berg Lake. The snow conditions and postholing between Upper Boy Scout and Ice Berg Lake kept us at Upper Boy Scout for the evening. Departed UBS for Ice Berg Lake at 3:30 AM, camped at Ice Berg that night with Russell being the goal for the following day. Trying to beat the snow by getting up and back early we departed Ice Berg Lake for the pass at 3:00 AM with the South Face right side being our route. We are 50 + year old hikers, not climbers. At about 13,900 feet we crossed a snowfield at the top of this chute arriving at a spot that was someone referred to as the headwall. You could go right and do a bit of rock climbing (which we have never done) or go left up a “ramp” that was filled with snow and ice. We had to do a “move” at the start of this ramp that bothered the heck out of me when looking off and down (way down) to my left. We scrambled up another 100 linear feet or so up this ramp. I didn't like the idea of kicking steps into the snow and ice on the way up and I really did not like the idea of going back down the same way. I figured that going further was beyond my capability (for the time being) and we bailed out. I still feel comfortable with the decision because we have done nothing more than class 2 hikes before. But I still want to get to the top. My questions are: 2) is that ramp more easily negotiated later in the season without that snow and ice?, 2) what is the easiest route for ro****s to get to the summit?

That missing word in the last sentence of my Russell posting is Ro****s.

The prefered route to Russell for non rock climbers is the East Ridge route. Starting at Upper Boy Scout Lake walk a little toward the East across the sandy shelf (toward the trees). Then climb up the steep sand hill (toward the North) all the way up to the Russell Carillon Saddle. I prefer to stay a little more to the right because there are more big rocks and less small scree. Once on the top walk North West across the saddle toward Russell. As the Russell ridge steepens you will stay a little to the right side. There is a crack in the Granite at the base of the wall to walk along. Off toward your right side the cliff rolls down to a thousand foot drop off. You can walk up this crack (much exposure but easy walking) until you get close enough to climb to the East peak. The traverse across to the west peak ( a little higher) is very exposed across a thin knife ridge.

Utah Chick, can your route be done as a "dayhike"? On the order of 16 hours, like Whitney Main Trail? Thanks...

I did the route in the fall in about 7 hours up and 4 1/2 hours down, from the portal. It seemed easier then either of my 1 day Whitney hikes. Coming down the sand hill was very fast to Upper Boy Scout Lake (which is why it is not fun to go up). While up on the summit Ridge I looked down the Headwall for a route up from Iceberg Lake. That didn't look easy for me ( a non climber). In the summer the route from Iceberg lake looks very sandy and loose all the way up to the headwall. You can ready about the East ridge route in the California Fourteeners book.

Dear Utah Chick,

Thanks for the input on Russell.