Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Alternative to Upper Chute

A friend and I are contemplating the Mountaineer's Route end of August or September. He's been up the trail a couple of times and I've been up to LBSL quite a ways back but never past that. We're both in good shape and would like to take a shot at doing the MR in a day. The question is... I've heard there is an alternative to the upper chute out of the notch near the top that involves moving west about 300 yards, and then back up onto the summit plateau. Can anyone advise on this as an option? I'm experienced technically and think I would probably do O.K. with the chute but my friend might balk at 3rd class, especially that high up. Thanks!

To Chute or not to Chute....When you get to the top of the Notch you will walk forward a bit and then you will have two choices. One is referred to as the chute. They are medium size blocks which are not difficult to climb. I like starting in the middle, crossing to the left and then crossing back over to the right (either in the middle or toward the top - above the snow which fills in the center). Another option is to continue straight until you come to the gradually sloping summit ridge and then loop backward to the summit. This can be a little bit of trouble, only due to the icy packed snow which stays late in the year. If you fall there it can be a problem. When you get to past the notch, look up the chute and take the route that looks the best to you. Saying that however, we have always taken everyone, experienced climbers or beginners up the chute.

Bob R. has a cool photo of the chute. Go to http://members12.clubphoto.com/robert634908/943486/guest.phtml. It looks like a giant staircase. Look at row #3 picture 1 (from the bottom looking up) and 2 (looking down from the top). Enjoy

Another photo in Bob R. pictures shows all the routes up the various chutes. It is in row #2 of the pictures already mentioned. Another link showing the route you asked about is on page 9 of the message board...(May 5, snow coverage overview by bearbnz) It shows the flat summit ridge from the west taken from an airplane. As you come down from the summit left and down (about 45 degree angle) you come to the notch, which looks like a V. Imagine starting at this V and then crossing the North side until you come out on the back. Picture was taken in May with lots of snow but you get an idea how it would work. You can also find that post by searching for "bearbnz" about in the search link.

You describe precisely the route we descended on the MR. The traverse is definitely the easier way to go up. I suspect it does take a little longer, but it is much easier and certainly less technical. (i.e. class 2 instead of class 3)

Copy and paste this link for a picture of the traverse from June 9.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/76935795/78053354VZuZww

There was no way we were going to try this way. We just went up the chute. It is class 3 and you have a little exposure - but if you slip on the snow and ice on that traverse, buddy you are a goner. Easier? It looks like it would take a lot longer to me. If you've made it up to the top of the notch, then by this time you've already done a fair amount of scrambling over rocks, you should be okay to just go up the chute. By the time you are talking about going (August/September) maybe it will be clear of snow, but I still think the chute is a lot faster way to the top.

Now to me the traverse as shown in the link above looks like it did when I was there last year, that is to say, less hairy than the chute(s). Personal preference I guess. When I traversed it was 95% rock rather than 95% snow, but a trail like that with crampons is my idea of smooth sailing. Imho.

The chute would save you about 15 minutes.

There have been posts about the traverse before. The problem is that the slope is about 50 degrees. A few times people have sliped and fallen there, all the way down to the bottom. Some have died. If you have the skill, I don't see it as a problem. If you don't have the skill and experience to walk sideways across the traverse, you shouldn't try it. When icy and hard it can be fatally dangerous if you slip. As has been said before....one slip and you can be a goner. It kind of depends on how full of snow the traverse is and how icy it is. I have never chosen to go that route.

Thanks, everyone, for the info on the route. I guess experience is the best teacher. We'll take a look once we get there and go with what we think is best, but your input really helps.