We arrived at the portal campground Friday afternoon, July 13. This year my hiking partners had all dropped out and I would go solo. My hike starts Monday the 16th.
After talking to Doug at the store, we learned that this is a bad year for the bears. My wife and grandson Alec (one month short of 6 years) would be left in camp while I hiked. First thing Saturday morning Alec & I went to the creek and within a few minutes Alec caught his very first fish. Over the week he would catch a total of twelve! We had one of Doug's famous pancake & egg breakfasts and ate fish for lunch/dinner.
Sunday late afternoon we heard someone below our campsite yelling "Bear" and sure enough, there was a large bear walking on the road. We started banging pots together and others were yelling and the bear walked away. During the night though, the bear returned to our neighbors' camp and we were all rudely awakened by the yelling and a dog barking. I joined them in with an air horn and big flashlight to see that the bear had gone on its way.
I got started Monday morning at 6:20am after weighing my pack at the trailhead. I was a little disappointed since I expected my new pack and tent to drop the total weight but still came in at 36 pounds for the second year.
7:30am - Almost to the logs, sweating like a pig (from my notes). Sunday afternoon looked very dark on the mountain but this morining was clear. On my way up to Lone Pine Lake I ran into a group who had summitted Sunday and had experienced wind, rain and hail. I also heard their complaints about the smell of their wag bags.
By 8:30am I am at Lone Pine Lake finding clear but hot conditions.
9:10am - Outpost Camp - Ate ham & cheese sandwich brought from camp and fitered water. I can't believe how small the waterfall looks...a very dry year. Left Outpost Camp at 9:44am
10:14am - At Mirror Lake (from my notes) I thanked God for my many blessings and for being able to be here to do this hike for the 6th time at age 57.
11:30am - Trailside Meadow - Clear skies. Already dreading the next section in which I am slow and suffer. I filter more water and eat the last ham & cheese sandwich.
12 Noon - Leaving Trailside Meadow - carrying a full 100 oz water bladder and 1 full water bottle. It's hot out now and I hate this section...seems to take forever to get to Trail Camp as you look up the mountain & see prople way up on the trail.
1:04pm - Trail Camp - Different arrival this year because the trail building is gone. In past years when you saw it you knew you were almost there. (From my notes) I took many breaks, most only a minute or so, to catch my breath and sometimes after only 20 steps.
2:20pm - Tents are all over the south side of the trail. I grabbed the first site I saw. I am the only one on this side of the trail. No rain but it looks real bad. The new tent is up and secured with stakes and guide lines. Oh how I would appreciate this effort later.
4:34pm - I take a nap. There are dark clouds but no rain yet. Chipmunks are all over around my campsite...no marmots at this site. As I sit in my tent alone and listen to other groups talk, I write that I am disappointed that I couldn't find a hiking partner to go with me this year. This is my first solo trip. It has been a tough day and I hope my legs are up to the challenges of tomorrow. I go visiting my neighbors across the trail. Three men ( 2 older than me) who plan to film the John Muir Trail. They had huge cameras & I asked about their pack weights. Astounded at their answer - 66 pounds!
5:30pm - Hot chocolate and poptarts are the best! I'm ready for bed. I hear young kids set up a tent in the site beside me to the east. I get up to have them take a picture of me & the site. Later I hear the young girl (maybe 14 or 16) say that her dad or stepdad is down the trail and refuses to carry his pack. She leaves and arrives back with the pack and later I see this guy who may be about 35 years old in shorts, black socks and tennis shoes. Talk about preparation! I feel sorry for these kids. I didn't see them again. They didn't summit and were gone when I got back from my summit.
Tuesday - July 17 - 5:30am Out of tent and used the wag bag. Now that experience I could have done without. Seems I woke up every hour last night but did get some sleep. I repacked the pack with only some food, warm clothes, rain gear, full 100 oz bladder and a full water bottle. I leave Trail Camp at 6:34am.
8:45am - Trail Crest - hard hump. Harder it seems than last five years. I am happy with my time though. Hitchcock Lakes and Guitar Lake are low but Guitar Lake still looks just like a guitar. Leave Trail Crest at 9:45am.
9:45am - Talked to some people and a guy from Ohio waiting at the Junction for his friend coming from Cottonwood Pass. He is very cold and is wanting to get going.
10:30am - I walk up on a guy who is dumping his day pack. He says he doesn't think he can make it and I tell him to slow down his pace and breath right. We start off again with me behind him and I started breathing real loud so he can hear me. He sets a great pace and I tell him how close we are to the top. We don't take any more breaks and both reach the summit.
11:00 - On the summit I get a couple to take my photo and I take theirs. The guy I helped runs over to me and tells everyone within earshot that he wouldn't have made it without my help. Truth be known, he helped me too. I am happy that I could help during this, my 6th summit in 6 years. The weather is great...no wind, not a single cloud. Some haze way to the south, maybe from fires. I see the guy from Ohio. He met up with his friend at the Junction and now waits for him at the summit. I head down at 11:44am.
12 Noon - I run into one of the guys doing the John Muir Trail film and he has me walk back by him again so he can film me. I do, wish him well and continue on my way.
12:30pm - I run into the film partner carrying a full pack to the summit. I ask why and he tells me he wants to spend the night on the summit. I remind him that there is no water on the summit and he says he brought extra. I wish him well too and head down. I wonder what his pack weight was. It was huge.
I stop to talk with a guy who is running this trail and we talk on how tough the hike really is. He is almost to the main mountain and it has taken him only four hours to get this far. I'm amazed!
1:17pm - I am at the Junction dreading the walk up again to get out. Others I talk to agree with me.
1:30 - Trail Crest - I write - That was hard! Now it is all downhill.
3:11pm - Back at the tent. I'm beat and my feet hurt but there are no blisters. It is so hot out. I lay in my tent for a while. I thought my face was tan enough and I didn't need sunscreen...big mistake.
5:00pm - Another group set up camp beside me - an older guy and his son. They are from Orange County. I am surprised that they are getting here so late and wonder if they have what it takes to get to the summit. (They didn't go any higher)
5:30pm - I have dinner consisting of Top Ramin and a Snickers Bar. I should sleep good tonight. Go to bed at 6:00pm.
Wednesday 7/18 5:00am - Up all night! It was very, very windy. I sat holding the inside of the tent so the poles would not break. I put leaned my pack against the side of the tent and tried to sleep sitting up against it. The wind would stop just for a minute at a time then start up again with terrific gusts. I thought it might just blow me out of my campsite. I pack my sleeping bag in my pack first, then comes the tent and everything else on top of that. How do I pack up with this wind? I thought it would stop at daybreak, but no. It was still cold and strong. Finally at 6:30am, I was all packed up and ready to go. I was shocked that people continued to walk by and could see them on the switchbacks going up.
7:22am - Trailside Meadow - still windy
8:00am - Mirror Lake - still windy
8:23am - Outpost Camp - I filter water and eat breakfast
8:38am - On the switchbacks going down to Lone Pine Lake the pines smell so good only to be outdone by the wag bag smell coming from behind me. Double bagged and still smelly.
10:00am - I talk to some hikers going up and ask if they have seen a lady with a small boy. One guy said yes but they were walking down the hill. I start to walk faster, then run and finally start yelling out their names. I didn't see them but I hear sweet music to my ears, "Grandpa?" What a treat to walk out with my wife and grandson.
Overall a great #6 trip for me. We are not all super stars or super athletes but to try and summit this mountain makes me feel so good and I have great respect for everyone who tries.
My wife filled me in on the adventures back at camp. A bear came into camp on Wednesday morning around 3:00am and she used the air horn to scare it off. She discovered in the daylight that it had torn a hole in the screen tent over the picnic table.
Thursday 7/18 - We had another huge pancake breakfast at the store and bought our souvenirs. Talking with Doug, he told us that he was awakened early that morning and found a bear sitting INSIDE the store. We had a great trip as usual and it was even more special seeing things through the eyes of a child camping for the first time.
If you camp at the Portal, be bear prepared.
Personal comments: train harder and lighten my pack.
Enjoy your achievements. If you walk on Mt. Whitney, be proud and if you summit, be even prouder of yourself.
Mtn Dreamer
