Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Crampon Question

I was wondering if you guys could shed some light on the types of crampons.
I am headed up to do the Main Trail in 2 weeks and am currently getting our group the necessary gear.
I have bought the Austrialpin Neve Crampons, but it almost seems like you need hard full on Mountaineering boots to make the step in heel work. So I just bought 3 sets of the Black Diamond Neve crampons, and they seem more appropriate for hiking boots. I have 3 sets of each, I am planning on returning whichever is not fit for our basic hiking boots.
Thanks for any input.
Krisztian

I attached links to both, so you can see them.
http://www.backcountryoutlet.com/outlet/MAM0032/AustriAlpin-Neve-Crampon.html

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/product...d_id=GoogleBase

You'd want the more general attachment system. But here is a less expensive alternative:

The Climb High/Austri Alpin CH-10 Crampon
at Campmor.com $90

Yes, for hiking boots you want a strap attachment system, rather than a step-in or hybrid (new-matic) system.

Keep in mind that the BD Neve crampons are aluminum. While lighter, they will dull quickly if used on rock. See Black Diamond's website for more info:

www.bdel.com

Dan

Interesting point, did some reading on that.
So I went from a step in crampon to an aluminum one that is designed for snow only. I am assuming that there will be plenty of rocks along with snow.
So the question is, if only used 2-3 times a year max, will they dull to the point that its a problem.
I would really prefer to keep the Black Diamonds, but if I have to will return all 6 and get another set.
I guess I just jump at a great deal too fast.

If your using them only 2-3 times per year, they shouldnt dull out to quickly. But, it all depends on the terrain you expose them to. The rockier the duller(are either of those actually words). I'd go with the BD's.

I'd stay away from Austri Alpin crampons - they're inexpensive, but prone to breakage. Brands such as Grivel, Black Diamond and Petzel (among others) have been around a long time and their products hold up better. But, they're more expensive. You don't always get what you pay for, but in this case you do.

A couple of other thoughts - aluminum crampons, while lighter, don't hold up in mixed alpine conditions - they dull easily. Not that you need crampons extra sharp for general alpine use. The best all around alpine crampon IMHO is the Grivel G10 - the points are shorter and less sharp than the Black Diamond Contact Strap. With shorter points you're less likely to trip, and that also means you're less likely to stab yourself and/or tear gaitors and other clothing with sharp points. BD makes excellent gear, but for my money the points on the Contact Strap are way too sharp. Extra sharp points are needed for waterfalls and vertical ice, but for general alpine mountaineering a less aggressive crampon works better overall.

Also - another thread contained a post which indicated that new crampons needed to be sharpened. I've never found this to be the case. And if/when you do sharpen them, always use a hand tool, never a power tool, and even with a hand tool make sure you don't get them too hot or you'll weaken the metal.

Skills?

Thanks fr all the help.
Looks like I will be sending all 6 of the crampons I bought back.
This is good though, at least I am learning now, not the hard way out there. So, no aluminum, and step ins don't work on regular hiking boots.
So, would this guy be a good choice?
http://www.backcountry.com/store/GRV0060/Grivel-G10-Light-Crampon.html?id=FaLULBKW

Or this one?

http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores...6&langId=-1

Personally, I wouldn't buy either. The Astri Alpin (Campmor) don't hold up well - either the steel snaps, or the nylon toe straps pull away from the grommet. Have seen too many of them fail. And the Grivel G10 model is aluminum. Great if there's only snow, but that's rarely the case. Keep in mind that the steel used by companies like Grivel and BD is unbelievably hard - while they will dull eventually, they will withstand lots of trips over mixed conditions (snow and occasional rock) before they need sharpening.

FWIW - check out the Grivel website. They used to have an excellent primer on various attachment systems they offered, and hopefully it's still online. For example, with the G10 and G12 lines, they offered 4 different attachment systems, depending upon the type of boot you used and/or your personal preference.

Stay away from aluminum. "Light & fast" is all the rage now, whether it's crampons, packs, tents and all things backcountry, and aluminum is lighter than steel. But, shaving a few ounces on basic safety gear is foolhardy.

Well said.

Thanks Kevin and Kurt.
I appreciate the input.

Let me add to what Kevin and Kurt said.

When it cold stay warm and dry come to the forefront and the idea of a light weight pack recedes. Once the crampons, axe and warmies become an issue the 30 L day pack stays in the closet and the pound heavier 40 L pack comes out.

If you are bringing ice axe, crampons and warmies to go along with the extra water you will need to do the Trail Camp RT, you are going to need a pack that will support all this extra weight.

Have you planned on carrying the extra clothes you will need to stay dry thus warm? The extra gloves, hats, tops, etal?