Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Winter Access Forum Main Trail in January, 2008

So far a few of us are planning a trip on 13 to 19 of January, 2008. This time I'm planning to stay there a whole week, regardless of the weather. The main point is to anticipate and experience tough conditions, not a quick ascend. At least one night is planned above 13,600 feet, along the ridge and/or on the summit.

If you think you would be willing and capable of spending a whole week in the area and to share suffering, email me.

By the way, the planned route is Main Trail. But even if we decided to take MR, descend is intended through MT.

The road up to Whitney portal may be snowed in.
I'm not sure what the road conditions are now or will be then, but this sounds like a cool adventure. And since I just left my day job, I may be able to join you.

I just spent some time at Lassen during the snowstorms of the past few days, so I like harsh weather and I have all my gear for something like that.

Joe

Joe welcome to the team. There is a possibility, however, of postponing the trip one week. I will post the final date in a few days. Hopefully you would be able to make it either way.

I'm still concerned about the weather. (The weather, however, is not a factor of canceling the trip.) Is it going to be enough snow? We've recently had some rain falls in BA. How about Whitney? How is it there right now, any pictures?

OK, the date has been changed and it is final. The first climbing day is on 13 of January and the last day is 19 of January. The 12 (Saturday) and 20 (Sunday) of January is reserved for driving to Lone Pine and back to BA. So far there are five of us going for sure (99%). I never say 100% till it's over. There are a few others thinking. You don't have to be from BA to join us, but you need to let us know.

I am in the north bay and may have that time off to spend a week getting a winter workout. Do you still have room on your trip.

Joe Mac

Sure. I don't set any quota, the nature of the trip does. Not many people like such an approach or have time to do it.

It appears I will be blazing the trail for your team. Myself and seven folks from the Surreal Summit team will enjoy the main trail January 4 through the 8th. Be safe.

chad Hanford, ca

Have fun with that. This storm should be just finishing up the dump when you get there. Multiple feet on unconsolidated snow makes for a good time.

Yes, it appears the snow gods have smiled upon Team SurrealSummit.com. Also, to make the climb more interesting, the new moon will be on Jan 8!

I'd be cautious about heading into the backcountry in the next few days. With something in the neighborhood of ten feet of snow expected by Monday (see dmatt's forecast on the main forum), the avalanche hazard level will be in the HIGH to EXTREME range until things settle down. Avalanche terrain starts at the first switchback and continues to the summit. There are a few safe zones here and there, but you can't avoid crossing through or beneath slide paths. Rescheduling a trip planned to start this weekend would be a smart move.

I concur. In addition winds as high as predicted will pick you up and blow you away - literally!

Anyone knows if Team SurrealSummit.com has returned from the mountain? I emailed them yesterday asking about the route conditions but have not got any response yet. They were supposed be coming back home on 10th.

We are leaving tomorrow morning for Lone Pine and will start climbing/hiking on Sunday. I am interested primarily about snow conditions above 12,000 on both MT and MR. Thanks

Any update here? Just wondering how the surrealsummit team found the conditions.

Well, I talked to a woman just before reaching Whitney Portal on Sunday (1/13) and she told me they did not go back due to the weather conditions.

As of our trip... The weather was one could not dream of any better: blue sky during the daylight and bright stars at nights day after day; the wind factor practically none, occasionally blowing snow at higher elevations. The lowest temperature measured was -10C at Mirror Lake. Running water was in many places below Outpost Camp, frozen above. The snow trail (footprints) ended a few feet after the North Fork split, but the first switchbacks were perfectly defined to follow the route; after that no indication of the trail. The snowshoes were mandatory even though in many places the snow surface was quite hard. Once again, beautiful weather and snow conditions but...

The trip was a few days of a snowshoeing experience up to Mirror Lake (our last camp), nothing exciting but workout. The seven day plan failed for many reasons with the final obstruct of inability to run the stove. How did it happen? We had three stows, two white gas (with two different fuel) and one propane (as emergency). The first stove broke after one day, so we started using the second one. At Mirror Lake we ran out of one type of fuel but that stove did not work with the other type of fuel (don't ask). Of course, I did not want to use the propane stove because it was only in case of emergency. This was not any emergency, so we descended the mountain.

This trip was designed to experience rough winter conditions and test our equipment and ourselves; summit was just a direction but not a must. I was hoping, however, that we all would get at least to Trail Camp and then, whoever was willing and capable, to the ridge or even the summit. We were over prepared and still failed for unexpected reason.

Ironically my dream weather was at the time of my original trip schedule, a week earlier, not a constant peaceful blue sky with moderate winter temperature. I postponed the trip only because one person, who really wanted to join us, could not make at the original schedule. He did not come anyway. Imagine the failure if we kept the initial schedule, but at least it would have been a rational excuse.

I doubt I would still find time to come back to Whitney again this winter, but if I do, I would surly come alone.

There is no such thing as being overprepared. Either you are prepared or not.

Good efforts on your parts guys. One advice when in a group and especially with things like stoves and compatible fuel, I would rather everyone in the group have same type fuel stoves, not 3 different ones. In your case this may have been a lesson learned by making the mistake.

How far down the road did you guys have to park?

Why where you wanting to spend a week to start with?

Why were you burning this much fuel?

mafiose13

I planned this trip long time ago without knowing weather conditions. In fact I do not cancel or reschedule the trip because of weather conditions. Usually I do it (solo) every January. Mt Whitney in winter provides a great and reasonably "safe" environment for such an exercise.

My plan and objective was clear from the beginning: exposure to and sustaining up to seven days in various weather conditions. So far my time spent here in winter was 3 to 5 days.

Not a concern of this trip: A quick and/or light ascend or technical climbing. (accomplished)

Parking: Due to the length (in days) of the trip, the parking place was designed in the "safest" area, down the WP road by the road closure gate. (accomplished)

Preferred Camps: Whitney Portal (accomplished), Outpost Camp, Trail Camp, Ridge and/or Summit.

A must gear:
Snowshoes, crampons, ice-ax. (accomplished)
On average one stove per two persons. (accomplished)
Comfortable food for seven days, plus emergency food for additional days on a strict diet. (accomplished)
Fuel for seven days plus.

Anticipated weather conditions: powdered and deep snow, high winds with whiteouts, very cold.

Q/A

There is no such thing as being overprepared. Either you are prepared or not.
You are right, but in this case, with actual very mild weather conditions, we were overprepared; the goal was to anticipate the worst.

I would rather everyone in the group have same type fuel stoves...
I agree and this is my mistake for being incompetent in white gas stoves technology. To me white gas is white gas. I took the propane stove just in case (e.g. if I would have been separated from the group, let say, above Trail Camp).

How far down the road did you guys have to park?
As planned; we did not have to. Some cars were parked higher.

Why where you wanting to spend a week to start with?
This was supposed to be "expedition/training."

Why were you burning this much fuel?
Don't know. I have a little experience with white gas stoves and always rely on my teammates' expertise. However, after one lesson learned some time ago I always take my propane stove just in case.

...this may have been a lesson learned...
I learn lessons from every trip regardless of the outcome, and also believe in "There is no such thing as being overprepared." (This is a huge topic, however.)


CLARIFICATION: A word "safe" has a very relative meaning in this context; by definition mountaineering is a very dangerous activity.