Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Thor Peak May 10, 2008

We had plans on climbing the left eastern chute of Thor Peak...full of snow. When we scouted it out the night before there was a large boulder section right in the middle. What a difference a few weeks makes in the snow pack.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2441536190061435028PXFGkA

So we climbed the SE chute up to the intersection. From here, most continue northeast up the chute until it connect with the top of the eastern chutes...in the middle of the bowl.

That was our route last year, which was all dry by late May 2007.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2345911670061435028DvbxXk

Always looking to experience a new route, we turned straight west and up at the intersection. This route goes straight up to the southeast corner of the Bowl. From the intersection you can not see the top of the route, which curves around a large rock outcropping to a narrow chute toward the top. Even though I had climbed this route years ago, I was still feeling a little anxious about the top section until it unfolded into view. There is a small 20-30 foot class three section close to the top of the chute, before it opens into the bowl. We took our crampons off for this section. The advantage of this route was a complete and deep snow field (I could see down 10 feet next to some of the bigger rocks) and it comes out the highest in the bowl of any of the eastern routes (about 11300-11400 feet).

This year the snow in the bowl was full of soft sun cups. Very slow going sinking in over and over again....the only unpleasant part the trip.

Mike, who came to climb with us, is from Idaho. He just got his PHD in English and want to have some mountain fun with us in California. He brought with him a new Black Diamond Ice Axe and crampon set.....which served him well. A good start to his mountaineering adventures in the future.

Our pictures are here

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2931341710061435028TwbnmQ?vhost=outdoors

On a funny note....we ran into a young hiker near Lone Pine Lake...on his way to Mt. Russell. Opps...wrong canyon.

DOH!

Sorry I missed you guys at the Portal yesterday, Kent! We'll meet up one of these days!

-L

Nice set of pictures. I especially liked this one.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2048776740061435028pYzJwr

How does a rock like that get in that position, hanging on the edge? You wouldn't want to be under that rock during an earthquake.

If you were near Lone Pine Lake, that guy was at least an hour past the turnoff up the North Fork. You just smile, look compassionate and say "I hate to tell you this, but remember the first big river, way down there? That is were you missed the North Fork Trail".

So just how steep was it? Both of these pictures take my breath away.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2330429030061435028ZcUigj

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2926620970061435028AitmmY

Hi Heather: In general the bottom portion of the southeast chute is around 30-35 degrees and continues that steep up until you reach the bowl.

If you turn left (west) at the intersection, there are places where it seemed a little steeper then 45 degrees. From time to time I would have to ram the ice axe into the snow above and kick in hard to continue upward (and not fall backward). So it was beyond just walking up a steep hill. I kind of wished I had a second small ice axe during the steep parts, for my left hand...like the kind the use to climb frozen walls and waterfalls.

I think this picture more clearly shows how steep it really was.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2537385080061435028CCmQEM

Great pictures.... I was surprised to see the one climber without sunglasses.

Well, over Memorial Weekend, I was thinking of tackling Thor, but with no crampons and all, I guess that is out of the question. I know that there will be a heat wave the next several days, but I doubt it will be enough to open up a route.... oh well. I'll just have to be satisfied with day hikes to new Army, Meyson Lakes and Kearsarge Pass

Again, thanks...... big difference from year to year.

paul

Thor Peak would certainly be a possibility this Memorial Day weekend. I doubt the Southeast route would be free of snow but others would.

Bob R. climbed the Mirror Lake route a while back. It was already mostly free of snow, except for the approach up to Mirror Lake. If if wasn't too early in the day you could probably walk over the snow up to Mirror Lake without crampons.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockwellb/2413983520/in/set-72157604537334439/


Also the route from Lower Boy Scout Lake drys out early. From the lake you head south and then climb up and to the left. That comes out in the bowl on the left side in the picture from Ashcraft's trip below. You can see the redish dirt coming up from below the rim down to the left near the left cat ear. Once in the bowl you just follow the dry northern rim around and up to the summit.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2713533460061435028tdXkla

In this link Bob R. calls that the secret route. It is in light gray. It may be a little hard to pick out at first. It starts with the yellow and then forks toward the right in the picture until it meets up with the blue line.

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/...ic=0&Search


In the recent pictures, descent chute is already dry enough, if you stay on the northern side. But it is a pain to go up. The two eastern chutes still have snow in them, and may not be dry by then.

I think Heather is correct about Thor Peak in a few weeks. The Mirror Lake route would be fine. I found this photo on Bob R's Flicker sight with the route.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockwellb/2047197929/in/set-72157603237006858/

Usually there is a path worn in the remaining snow up to mirror lake. It is not far from the beginning of the snow at Lone Pine Lake to Mirror Lake.

If you go up the North Fork, much of the trail is on the north side until Lower Boy Scout Lake. This would be dry by now. When we looked down toward Lower Boy Scout Lake there is some snow, but not fully covered. The Secret route section described would be all dry by now, with some minor snow to cross down closer to the lake. That would probably work fine also...without snow gear.


When you get to this point above Lower Boy Scout Lake, just pick a path leading up to the rim on the left side. Much of it will be drying out or mostly dry by then.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/1465873375061435028kNZyQj

Ah, the secret route. Yes I am familiar with it ever since joing Bob R on the message board hike last September. I was in the group that stayed with Bob as the others took a different route.

Thanks

paul

Hi Paul: Just an update

These pictures came online today. Sure looks like you could pick a mostly snow free path to Thor Peak from Lower Boy Scout Lake.

http://ranboze.smugmug.com/gallery/4956438_N3DKq/1#296662590_JH73i

http://ranboze.smugmug.com/gallery/4956438_N3DKq/1#296664815_fw9q3

http://ranboze.smugmug.com/gallery/4956438_N3DKq/1#296668174_SguLN

With a week to go, I wonder what this heat wave will do to the remaining snow...... from the look of it, it's melting fast.

I am really looking forward to climb Thor again. Thanks for finding the pictures for me.

Paul