Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Preparing for Whitney in the Winter. Best rope?

My friend and I are going to attempt our first winter ascent of Whitney this season. We intend to go up the chute to Trail Crest and we're planning to tie together.

First time tying together. Anyone have suggestions on how much rope, type of rope and possibly best brand that will work?

We do plan on taking a snow class, but trying to gear up as much as we can now. Thanks.

rumor has it there's a guide who posts on this site. If he wants to chime in on the particulars of roping up, he can have it. I won't go there.

But in response to your question: If I were to bring a rope (for the main trail), I'd probably get a so-called "glacier rope": something relatively short (maybe 30-40 meters) and relatively thin (8-9 mil). A dry treatment is mandatory.

Whitney in winter is magnificent.

Brian, please search the board for "winter" in the subject -- you will find hundreds of posts over the past few years.

As you read, you may find that rope is the least of your worries.

Here's a good topic to start with:

Winter mountaineering on the upper mountain

Hi I think the best would be wait until after the snow class and decide on the rope and other needed gear, you will learn why to use a rope and when and the conditions related to a fixed rope to another person and what is needed to make that choice.

With out the training and pratice history tends to indicate that it just leads to more injury if a fall does happen, two or the number on the rope may also be injuried.
Thanks Doug

Brian, I don't think that people rope up on this slope, and doing so would significantly complicate the climb of the slope. If you've not done climbing with a rope, it can be quite distracting, and can actually increase your danger, in addition to adding weight (counting associated gear).

Others with more experience on technical roped climbs may be better able to advise you, but I'd not be buying such gear without such input.

Proficiency in using an axe, and practice in self-arrest are vastly more important, and an avalanche class is important to have (not that this slope avalanches, but you will be moving through avalanche zones, and general snow reading will be very helpful.

G'luck!

First, there is your starting point in the winter. Which could be back where the road switchback up to Whitney Portal. This will at 4 miles to your ascent.

Gearing up, eh. Rome was not build in a day and neither is a winter gear closet. Big packs, multiple mattress, warmer sleeping bags, snow shoes, fangs, axe and most importantly winter skills.

A snow class is a plus but one day on the slopes of a mountain with skilled mountaineer does not necessary qualify you to go up the chute to Trail Crest in the middle of the winter.

I've had more fun on the MMWT in the middle of winter without ever reaching the summit than I have had summiting in the summer.

Since your question was about gear - this rope is a good option for the use you describe.

Beal Rando - 30m Dry 8mm rope.
http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD0812/Beal-Rando-30m-Rope-DryCover-8mm.html

Sitting here with my coffee, still in my sleep socks, but I'm getting a tingle, yes, a SAR tingle . . . this thing doesn't sound like a "winter ascent," so much as a winter rescue.

Look over to your left in the feature topics––there's a section called, "what can go wrong on whitney" I think it's echoed here in the other posts, but if you need to ask questions about rope, you're already in trouble. Pay for a guide and even they'll probably tell you to "wait until spring . . . bandini"

To answer the question directly, I've been using the 60m 8.5mm Mammut Genesis for the past couple of years sucessfully for glacial travel and climbing.

To add on to what everyone suggested, find out why you want to buy a rope before buying one. A good rope will cost a chunk of money. Invest wisely!

Before I sound like too much of an idiot, the winter Whitney attempt will be a prep hike for a possible Rainier bid in the Spring.

I've done Whitney three times, once in late winter with lots of snow (but still went up 99). My friend and I just bagged Shasta, so basic snow skills were tried and tested.

We wanted to hike Whitney in the winter for the sole purpose of training before the technical Rainier climb.

Thanks to everyone who already responded.

In that case the Mammut Genesis 60m 8.5mm is a good choice. Super dry treated sheath and core and dynamic. Light and strong enough for glacial travel. 60m is sufficent for 4 climbers and team-rescue situation. 8.5mm is sufficient width for prusiking (given equivalent prusik cord) in self-rescue situation. It is a double rope so pair it up if you do technical climbing.

There are single rope out on the market now that are almost as light which you can use for almost anything. From my limited experience using rope, there are no best rope, just the best rope for the climb.

Have fun shopping.

Since this is not really for a Whitney Climb, but a Rainier Climb, you may find more voluminous resources at:

www.Cascadeclimbers.com

and

http://www.mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/

By the way, on the second link is a fascinating article about climbing with a US Senator.

What is Capitol Hill rated at?