Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board MR Newbie Questions?

Ive been up the main trail 3 times. October 4th, im hoping to get 2-4 walk-in day permits for the MR. I was wondering how easy the route finding is up there? Ive read many TR, seen lots of pics, i feel like i know what to expect, to a certian degree. Im an avid hiker, 1 of my partners is a rock climber. I guess my main question is am i going to need a compass and map skills? How do you all feel about helmets up there? Any other suggestions, lets hear em'.

I just found a great topic on this a few pages back. Pretty much answered most of my questions. If anybody would like throw some more info my way, feel free! Thanks

I would bring the helmet. Everyone has their own opinions but the rockfall potential is beyond your control and a helmet only weighs a pound or so. Helmets can save your life so if you have one, why not bring it. I've heard a lot more stories about people crediting their helmet for saving their life than I have heard people blaming their helmet for increasing their injury.

As far as route finding, it is mostly straight forward and straight up. The couple areas that can be tricky for first timers in the first stream crossing. If you find yourself in 3rd class prior to crossing the creek twice, you went the wrong way. When you reach LBSL, the standard route is following the trail up along the left (South) side. Continue up the slabs and eventually follow the trail to the south towards the cliff band that will lead you on your way to Iceberg Lake. If you find yourself standing on the shores of UBSL, you missed your turn off by several hundred feet. The rest of the trail I have only done in snow and never seen the actual trail so can't comment on tricky parts, but other than working your way around the waterfall just below Iceberg Lake, it should be pretty straight forward.

Study the conditions and route up until you go and yo should be ok. I always bring a map and compass, you never know when conditions will deteriorate so much that you may rely on them. Good Luck and be safe.

The route is pretty straight forward and pretty easy to follow (by the light of day). I would say that some of the brush could be a bit confusing in the dark. If you have done the research the route up the ledges will look familiar to you. There is a little short cut up the ledges if you are comfortable with a very short climb and the exposure (if you are you will probably see it up to the left after you go up along the tree then climb up to your right and are walking along with the ledges on your left). If it doesn't jump out at you don't attempt to "find" it just stay on the very apparent route. I understand (possibly incorrectly) that this was the site of a fall in the past so be cautious, but the ledges are really not a bid deal IMHO. Follow the Cairns when they are present.

The trail to LBSL is obvious. There are a few ways to get to the slabs from LBSL that are also faily obvious. The trail stays low around the left side of the lake then starts climbing toward the slabs. Follow the cairns on the slabs. As was stated you shouldn't be on the shore of UBSL unless you missed the trail up the short ridge (to your left as you look at UBSL). The trail is pretty obvious, but you should be out of all the brush when you cut left to go up the ridge.

After you get to the top of that little ridge and make that slight turn to the right that eventually takes you to the water fall that is below Iceberg Lake - don't go to low. I have seen some hikers end up well below the trial by the time they reach the water fall area and end up having climb back up to water fall. Again, the trail is pretty easy to follow through this area.

The water fall can be climbed on the left or right - I like playing around going up the right edge, but either way and what ever you are comfortable with. I have not stayed below the waterfall, but I believe I read that you can stay below it and go climb up through scree (toward the base of the east face of Whitney) to get to the base of the chute. I like the waterfall route.

After that go up the left side of the chute up through the rocks and drop in to the chute about 1/3 (or so - maybe more) of the way up. I am sure you will see someone going up through there and possibly someone going right up the chute. I like the left myself because it seems to give me a bit more solid footing both on the way up and after dropping in to the chute, but again whichever you prefer.

Wear your helmet from Iceberg up as you will experience rocks coming down as you are going up...and down for that matter. Last year I saw a very very close call (inches...) directly across the chute from me that would have likely added to a statistic that none of want to see increased. A helmet may have made the difference had he been struck...

After the notch you should see a few cheater rocks stacked up to get you started up the chimney (which is to the left after the notch). You will likely run in to someone going up, waiting to or coming down that area. You can then cross below the ice patch and climb up the right side or stay left for a bit more of climbing experience.

That is basically the route by memory (or at least the way I remember it). There are many more memebers here that know it much better than I do as well as alternate routes (through the ledges for example) and have pictures with the route identifed, but hopefully this helps a little and wasn't to long of a read.

Have a great time and be safe.

Rich

john muir already did it but is it MUCH harder with the gear for 4 days on your back? just the climbing/scrambling part of the route!