Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Denali Preparation near Hollywood

Hi guys, sorry to go a little off topic, but I know you have the answers...(especially Kurt!)
I am trying to prep for Denali this coming June. I moved to LA from Seattle, where I knew what to climb to progress, and had friends to take along. I have solid beginner-intermediate mountaineering skills, have done the Alpine Ascents week long mountaineering course and traveled for an unsuccessful climb of Lhakpa Ri in Tibet (mucho avalanches, a typhoid outbreak among the sherpa, became a survival mission rather than a climb...)need to get into better shape (who doesn't) and was planning to do a Rainier climb with my buddies which didn't get us to the summit this fall since we hit a bad weather window. My evaluation after the Alpine Ascents course on Shuksan this March was that I would do fine on Denali with a few more winter ascents (they suggested Rainier) and working on conditioning. So after this long, drawn out intro, my question is...can people suggest some local(ish) climbs beyond Whitney (which is on my list) for Denali prep? Kurt, any guided mountaineering options to build my skills this winter? Thanks all.

Yes I can give you lots of options for Denali prep. As far as guiding options goes I do that in the Sierra during the winter and spring months. Every winter I get referrals from Denali guide services who's clients are signed up on climbs. Many of these clients live in California or Colorado. I take a curriculum of skills needed for a Denali climb then look at where you're at with those skills. I'll make sure you're comfortable with those various skills and we'll do a peak ascent or two to put it all into practice. I can also give you my slideshow of McKinley so show you how various skills are put into practice on the mountain. There are also lots of little "tricks of the trade" that I can show you. Get in touch with me and we can set something up. The best way is info@sierramountaineering.com or the office phone number at (760) 872-4929.

Regarding on going training there are many options for you. Locally in your neck of the woods you have three peaks above 10,000 feet: San Gorgonio, San Jacinto, and Mt. Baldy. Assuming we get some good storms they'll have snow on them. They'll all be accessible as day trips or you can turn them into overnighters and get some more snow camping practice.

In the Sierra the Whitney region is a great area. Other areas that are reasonably accessible in the winter/spring include Onion Valley, South Lake, North Lake, and Convict Lake. Mt. Morrison, Mt. Laurel, and Bloody Mountain are pretty easy to access from Convict Lake. There are other areas too but that ought to get you started.

We have a few McKinley vets who participate on this board. I'm sure if any of them are around they can offer some more helpful suggestions.

Congrats on making the decision to participate in a McKinley expedition. It's a beautiful mountain and the Alaska Range is an awesome place to visit. Be sure to do a scenic flight with a bush pilot while you're there to get a spectacular view of areas you won't be climbing in.

Pretty much what Kurt said. I wouldn't call Socal an ideal location to train for Denali but there are tons and tons resources available. Starting with conditioning, your playground will be the Socal 10'ers and Sierra 14'ers. Get a 60lb pack on your back and go up and down Baldy from the Village throughout this winter. Rig a kiddy sled and put 50lbs on that and pull it up the South Fork on San Gorgonio. Build a lot of platforms and snow/icewall when you out there this winter.

These areas, including the local climbing crags can also be used for crevasse rescue, both self and team. Use a steep slope to set up z-pulley system for the team. Go roped up with your team to get a feel of it. Use the local climbing crags to practice ascending a rope. I think the Ape Wall at Malibu has an overhanging section. Joshua Tree is another place.

Assuming you are doing the West Buttress, get Colby Combs West Buttress Climber Guide. Also get Andrew Selters Glacier Travel and Crevasse rescue.

Shoot me an email. Glad to help out.

Thanks very much to both of you - I haven't been to most of the places you mentioned, so I've got a nice few months of work (ok, play) ahead of me. I will definitely meet you up in the Sierra, and Kurt, I'll call you for some skills buildup through SMI. Thanks again!

the San Gabriels are 20 minutes from LA. i suggest going up the Devil's Backbone to Blady in winter, and up the North Devil's Backbone to Pine Mtn from Wrightwood in winter as well. San Gorgonio, Mt Jepson and such. both pretty steep ridges and interesting in the snow. thats the closest Socal gets to denali, but with some of trees.

this place will give you valuable info

http://sangabrielmnts.myfreeforum.org/

Don't underestimate the resources you'll have available right in your new backyard. Los Angeles is surrounded by three major ranges, and many, many smaller ones. The big three top 10, 10.8 and 11.5K elevation, all rising from near sea level, all offering technical winter terrain. Aside from vertical ice and crevasse travel, you'll find quite a mix to play with.

Ski on,

Not a whole lot of people know we have one of the highest unbroken escarpments in the lower ’48 right here in So-Cal. It’s the Snow Creek route up the north face of San Jac.

Here is a link to a SP rite up. You can Google and find more info on the route.

http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=155928

I’m no expert but I think sending a 10k route every weekend should help a bit with your prep for ‘The High One’!

Good luck, and maybe I’ll see you up there this season. I’ll buy you a beer at the Tram!

I also remember reading a TR about a winter climb of the north face of one of the T's (near Mt. Baldy) that was probably more "technical" than anything you'll see on the standard route on Denali.

Oh my goodness! Zowie! The Snow Creek route was not on my radar! That looks like an awesome challenge. Thanks again to all of you - the playlist is filled for the winter, I think.

Snow Creek is awesome and it is in our backyard! It is "in conditions" for a short period in the Spring.

Here are a few other ideas on the east side of the 395.
Keynot Peak via East Ridge
White Mt. via West Ridge
Telescope Peak from Panamint Valley

Then there's the Sierra in winter:
Split. Mt via East Ridge
Mt. Langley via Northeast Coloir
Mt. Williamson via Shepherd Pass
and our beloved Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route .

and then there's Mt. Shasta .

And you thought moving away from the Cascades ended your mountaineering career.

I just made peace with living in Hollywood - thanks very much!