Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineers Route

Hi,
We are considering to attempt the mountaineers route this year, after successfully climbing the main trail in one day last year. We need information. I've read conflicting books and articles about needing a permit for this route. If you need a permit, when is the lottery? the same as the main trail? Also, how technical is it? I've read that the only equipment really necessary is an ice axe and crampons. We are somewhat experienced hikers, but are new to this route. When is the best time of year to do this route, before the snow melts or after - late spring or early summer or late summer? Any advice, information or help would be much appreciated.
Thank You,
Los Dos Nuezes

To answer your questions...

You need a permit if...you are backpacking the trail (overnight) or your return trip of your day hike is on the Main Trail.

There is no stinking Lottery (Thank God!)...The MR is like every other trail in the Inyo. Call 6 months prior to your date of entry for a permit. They are still $15 because you are entering the Whitney Zone.

The technical stuff I'll leave to the people who have done this route. I'm going to give a go in August.

Bill

I did the MR last fall so I'll mention the things I found confusing about the process.

First, the permit. You do need a permit, but it's a regular wilderness permit (except for the price) and the quotas are separate from the ones for the main trail, even though they share a trailhead. In other words, don't be confused because both routes start at Whitney Portal. They are considered separately by the FS.

Second, the route. Even though it is called 'unmaintained' and is marked as approximate on maps, it's really a highway. A very steep highway to be sure. There are portions that are somewhat cross country but many ducks have been placed and if you have done any cross country route finding you'll find this trail easy to follow.

There are one or two class 3 moves on the Ebersbacher ledges, it should be mentioned. The Whitney chute is just steep and tiring class 2.

I assume you will be climbing in the winter. If so here is my recommendation: The main concern with the MR is just beyond the Notch after you climb the colour, everything before that is pretty simple. You have 2 options at this point, continue to go straight for a hairy traverse on the north face, then an easy walk to the hut, or head straight up from the notch up class 3 ledges. For the ledges, I recommend being tied in or setting up some pro - the exposure is terrific. I wouldn't worry about the Ebersbacher ledges below Lower Boy Scout Lake unless their iced over. All the books make a big deal about it, they should really focus on the last 400ft scramble just below the summit. Good luck.

los dos, ive been up the MR twice, the first time we tried as a day hike & ran out of time at iceberg lake, the second time we did it overnight, summiting the first day & spending the night at iceberg. even though it is a well traveled route there is some routefinding required. We did not find the eiserbacher ledges to be too technical but we just didint find them the on the first attempt. we did it in mid august and traversed the north face through minimal snow with no need for crampons, if you go on a weekend i do recommend wearing a helmet in the notch for protection against rockfall from climbers and hikers above. there are some good books that describe the route. best of luck, respect the mountain.

Martin gave you good advice. The traverse after you get to the top of the couloir above Iceberg Lake can be fatally dangerous. Check conditions just before you go to find out if the traverse is still snow/ice covered. If it is still icy I recommend a rope to protect the traverse. The traverse is not difficult but a slip could be fatal.

Regarding your question about time of year... following a heavy snow year there can still be snow on the traverse even in the fall. I feared for my life when I did the icy (from the previous winter) traverse unprotected one October. Following a light snow year you might find the traverse free of snow in the late summer. Then no rope is needed.

I have never gone straight up from the gap at the top of the couloir as Martin described. It sounds like a rope is a good idea on that route all year.

It is a beautiful trip with scenic elements that do not exist on the main trail.

We are planning to attempt MR at the end of March. I've never been there before, so I don't have much info about this route. As I understand the last section might be quite challenging, and some people prefer to use protection there. We will have a number of snow anchors with us, but I am not sure if we should bring ice screws or any rock protection. Also, how dangerous is the route in terms of avalanches? I will appreciate any information. Thanks.

Sergey

Just did the MR on Feb 8-11 with a guided group. On the way up, we wore plastic boots for most everything below iceberg lake then clipped on crampons and wore helmets for the long, steep but direct route up to the notch. We roped in for the traverse and used 3 pitches to make it up the last 400+ ft up to the lip of the summit. Lots of loose rocks up the notch and through the final stretch. A few climbers w/ skis resting at the notch pointed to the short but exposed traverse and noted that a few climbers w/o crampons have lost their footing when icy and taken the long but scenic plunge below the north face.

After enjoying a sunny summit, we spent the final night at our higher camp (below Iceberg Lake) and woke up to heavy wet snows for our way out. With heavy packs, we were postholing and falling on hidden ice spots that were more apparent on the way up. We found it easier to sit on our butts and slide down a few sections.

Still, the MR was a nice winter challenge during early Feb, practically deserted, with great snow conditions, and amazing High Sierra views.