Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board First Whitney Climb in June

Hello all,
I have been browsing the board on a regular basis for several months now and since I submitted my permit application recently, figured I would go ahead and post and start getting to know the right information to make my climb a success.
One thing I have noticed from several posters on here is that Mount Whitney can be a very dangerous place. Let me get it out of the way that I understand that. But I also believe that someone without a lot of mountaineering experience can do it safely if they put in the effort to prepare themselves. So that being said, let's dispense with the go/no-go discussion and focus on what the dangers are and the best ways to mitigate them.
Myself and a friend of mine are planning to ascend to the peak during the first week in June. We have extensive experience in the outdoors and with land-nav, but unfortunately the vast majority of it has come below 10k feet. We also have little experience dealing with the kind of snow we will find on Mount Whitney. I have had to deal with some postholing and such, but no large snowfields on significant inclines. This past summer I was able to do several hikes above 10k feet (no higher than 12k) in the Sierras. Since then, I have set my eyes on Mt. Whitney and this will likely be the only chance I have to do it for many years.
I would appreciate any advice anyone has to give as I am sure I don't even know all the right questions to ask. However, I will ask the few I do know to ask to get the ball rolling.

1) What are the typical snowpack conditions (given what we know of the winter so far) on Mount Whitney in June? I am certainly well-aware that trying to predict the weather is nigh on impossible, please try your best to give me the best picture you can.

2) Is it possible and is it advisable to do such a hike without the aid of cramp-ons and an ice-axe?

3) If it is advisable to use crampons and an ice-axe, what are some areas (I am in Monterey- so mid-Sierra area is the best) you would recommend using to get familiar with the type of snowpack conditions you would see on Mount Whitney in June? Are there any books you would recommend for me to read to start familiarizing myself with the techniques? I know personal instruction is the best way to go and I am trying to work that out.

4) I have seen a lot of people talk about dropping their packs at Trail Crest and summitting with only minimal gear. Is it really that difficult to finish out the summit that you would risk seperating yourself from most of your gear?

5) I've only spent a total of 7 hours above 10k feet on foot, but I have yet to experience any symptoms of AMS. What is the best way to avoid it and once you experience the onset of it, what are the best ways to deal with the symptoms?

Thanks for any input and encouragement...
Scott

Let me begin with a couple of introductory remarks.

I would disagree that Whitney is a dangerous place....if a person is prepared for the conditions found on the mountain. Most of the serious injuries and fatalities occur because people are not prepared. You're asking these questions, 3-4 months ahead of time, is a good thing.

General Prep: the trail may be clear, although probably not likely. This year, the snow is shaping up to be quite similar to last year. You might look back to the archive of posts from a year ago, and look at conditions then.
If it is clear, it is simple hiking.
If it is not, it is a significant mountaineering trip.
This graph may be the best guide to what will happen, particularly as you get into May(updated nearly daily):
http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/products/PLOT_SWC.2009.pdf

Problem is, you may not know until a week before, which it is. In mountaineering, you prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. That appears to be what you are doing.
Read Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, the bible for learning mountaineering.
you should also read AT LEAST one of the guides for Whitney.

2. If no snow, yes. If persistant snowpack, can vary from very problematic, to suicidal.

3. Tough to give you a great recommendation of a nearby practice area to you. Part of the problem is that snow is almost an organic, evolving substance, which changes character during the year. In the same exact place, it may be very different, just weeks apart. Obviously, Sierra. Steep terrain. Perhaps some of your local Sierra Club folks may be able to suggest places closer to you. Problem is, you don't want to set off an avalanche upon yourself, so the places that may seem good, may be dangerous at times, and you don't appear to have those evaluation skills.

4. It sounds like you are confusing two different groups: People who have backpacked in from the west, who are carrying full loads, who typically drop them off at the intersection (NOT Trail Crest!)......and people who are doing a day climb, either from Whitney Portal, or Trail Camp, who would typically not drop their minimal stuff off. (although many drop off a bottle of water--yes, it does make a difference).
Two very different groups. You are probably in the second.

5. Best way to avoid AMS: spend time in the few weeks before above 10k, and especially spend a couple of days above 7k and preferrably higher, just before your climb. If you spend that time at the Portal, you will have a great opportunity to talk to people coming off the mountain, and evaluate what is going on up above.
Best way to deal with symptoms: STOP. Rest for an hour. Hydrate. (dehydration may mimic AMS). If it persists, consider descent, or further rest.
Going UP with symptoms of AMS is a BAD idea.

If you haven't already, read the links to the left, particularly "What can go wrong on Whitney"

Lots of preparation to do, but have fun!

Yeah, what ken said!

Thank you SO much, Ken. That is exactly the kind of reply I was looking for. GREAT info that I will certainly take to heart. I can not tell you how much I appreciate it.

The extent of my snow reading skills is sticking a trekking pole or stick or something into a snowbank and feeling if it is layered or not. So yeah, not much in the way of those skills. Thank you very much for the book recommendations and I will eat those up. I have already started reading everything I can find on the internet about the trail and Mount Whitney in general (including "What Can Go Wrong on Whitney"). Thank you for pointing out that "the intersection" and "Trail Crest" are two different places. A great example of the tidbits of helpful info that come out from discussions like this that are hard to pick up from narratives one reads.

As far as acclimization is concerned, my current plan was to spend the first night at Whitney Portal after hiking up the trail a few miles and then back to The Portal. Then, the second night camping and Trail Camp after hiking up to Trail Crest (or a little higher) and then back down to the camp. Then summitting and descending on the third day. What do you think about that plan? (Assuming conditions stay favorable)

Good job getting advice early.
One thing to note: You can't learn mountaineering skills from a book. You may be able to learn them in your head, but head knowledge does NOT equate ability.
That being said, find someone to take you up an show you the ropes. I'd be more than happy to go up with you into Sequoia if I've got an open weekend when you do, and show you some basics, but with a busy SAR schedule my weekends aren't as open as usual. The best thing you could do would be to take a class.
As Ken said, buy and read Freedom of the Hills, it is outstanding. I would also encourage you to pick up Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Grab all the volumes you can, others' mistakes may just save your life.
There is a good chance you may end up on the snow for the majority of your hike, be ready for that. The mountain isn't the place to learn skills.
Again, find someone to take you up and introduce you to the basics, I have yet to find a mountaineer who isn't happy to share their knowledge.

Thanks for the advice, snaps. Trust me, I clearly understand the difference between knowledge and ability. The military teaches you that lesson with extreme prejudice. I will seriously consider your offer.

We summitted last year in the first week in June. If it is like last year, you must be prepared for snow conditions. The trail was drying out for a few weeks prior to our trip and a storm moved in a week or so prior and changed the conditions. We had, however, started preparing for the those conditions, like you months in advance. This board is a tremendous source of valuable information and knowledgeable people to help you prepare.

Two things we learned, successfully, were proper clothing choices. We came prepared to deal with the 20 degree temps ( and -5 wind chill) and were for the most part warm and comfortable without being hot and sweaty. Lastly, and I believe most importantly, we decided on summit day that if the looming clouds in the distance started seriously making their way to us it was turn around time, no questions asked. Weather can change very rapidly and this is not the time of year to get caught. Keep a close eye on weather and trip reports here on this board, as well as the White Mountain weather station link as a very helpful resource for real time weather conditions.

The difficult area that early in June is the switchbacks, from trail camp to trail crest. Unless it remains dry the rest of the winter, I would expect snow to cover that portion of the trail the first week in June. If the trail is still covered, you would need to climb the steep hill to the west, and crampons would be required. It is in the shade and dries out slower then other section of the trail lower and higher.

Here is a picture of that area from the last week of May 2006, in a year the snow pack was about 85% for the area. The switchbacks go up the steep hill in the back in the middle of the picture, behind the extended pyramid shaped hill called Wotan's throne.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2402231860061435028AWLjme

2002 was a real dry year, with the snow pack way down around 30-40%. This pictures was taken at the cables in the 97 switchbacks May 23, 2002

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockwellb/480271171/in/set-72157600165038642/

Another dry year May 23, 2007, which was around 25% snowpack.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockwellb/512998558/in/set-72157600263127145/

This year should end up somewhere in the middle. Either way I would gain access to crampons and ice axe and learn how to use them.

Those are some great pictures! Thank you. Judging from maps of the area, it looks like this picture is taken from Thor Peak, correct? If so, then you are saying that it is best to climb the same general face that the switchbacks are on, just up the west side? Because from just west of the switchbacks, the ridge turns N-S, so I am having a little trouble pinpointing exactly where you are talking about. Thanks for the advice, sorry if my questions seem a little mundane.

Scott

1. Snow in June...No one can give you an answer. I went over the Cottonwood Pass the same weekend in early June, the year where we had the most snow the pass had the less snow the previous year. A lot depends on how late the storms come and how early the spring melt comes.

Plan for there to be snow that will have be dealt with from Trail Camp to the summit.

2. Ice axe and crampons...Advisable no. I will add it is not advise able with ice axe, crampons and at the very least rudimentary snow skills. Fortunately, there is time to acquire all three before the first week in June. Go to Sierra Mountaineering International website. The offer a basic snow skills course monthly, in my memory serves me correctly.

3. Practice...Finding conditions like the chute up from Trail Camp and the west side will be difficult anywhere but the Sierra, where you will most likely need these tools. I know I haven't found the latter in SoCal.

Pick up a copy of Freedom of the Hills. It is a help.

4. Dropping gear...These are usually people dropping the backpacking gear at Lower Trail Crest on the way up from the Guitar Lake area. Day hikers have no reason to drop gear. At this point we have not established if you are a day hiker or a backpacker.

5. AMS...It is hard to tell if you are susceptible to AMS based on your information.

The best way to avoid it is to acclimate properly and that takes a lot of time, which most either do not have or are willing to do. Once the you are symptomatic, the only thing you can to is go lower. I've had symptoms go away in as little as 700' of down climbing and as many as 10,000'.

You are correct in saying that the first photo was taken from the summit of Thor Peak.

During the winter months, the snow is deep enough to cover most of the 97 switchbacks. Consequently winter climbers go straight up the hill directly to the west of the switchbacks. In the kashcraft webshots photo, you can see this hill just to the right of the summit point of Wotans Throne. It looks very white and smooth, except for a small vertical rib of rock going up and down....in the middle.

The Switchbacks go through the area of the photo, just to the left of the summit point of Wotans throne. This area has a less smooth look....with many small rock outcroppings.

The little bump up on the top of the snow covered ridge, almost straight above the summit point of Wotans throne...is Discovery pinnacle. As you come right from this bump you reach the first large rock spire sticking up. That is the start of the North South ridge that contains many peaks until you get to Mt. Whitney. That first large rock spire is just north of Trail Crest. The most prominent point sticking up on that side of the ridge is Mt. Muir. Mt Muir is about 25% in from the right side.

I followed Gone Hikings link to find Bob R's picture from last April, showing the switchbacks in the snow, and the snowfield on the right side.

Look here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockwellb/2413174927/in/set-72157604537334439/

Scott: My office is in Monterey and I have a few books on climbing Mt Whitney that I can loan you........send me an email to let me know how to get in touch with you. I climbed it a couple of years ago and will do the MR this summer.

gk.peg93940@sbcglobal.net

Gary

Another suggestion, in March or April take a weekend around Whitney Portal. Camping at either Whitney Portal or Lone Pine Campground and snowshoe up to Trail Camp. This will give you a general idea what to expect come June...minus a lot of snow hopefully.

Unless you there right after a storm, there is usually a trail cut up to Trail Camp.

My friends and I have done it a half a dozen times between November and April.

The following link is for pictures our May 2007 trip. Because of the mild winter, this is what you are most likely to see in a normal early June.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/559049009idbmct

Here's a shot of the chute above Trail Camp to Trail Crest on June 7, 2008.

That's a lot more snow than we saw a year earlier in mid-May.

Every year is different.

And on July 7, 2008 all of that snow was gone.

I too will be heading to Whitney in June and figure some new boots are in order.
I've been looking at La Sportiva Trango S Evo's because I figured crampons may be necessary. Does anyone have any recommendations? Can I get by with a heavy backpacking boot instead of the Trango's?
Ideally I would like something that I can use later in the year on my next trip to Shasta, Adams, etc. I realize a backpacking boot isn't enough for Shasta and I'll assume the conditions in June on Whitney would be similiar. Just not sure if I want to invest in the Trango's quite yet. Thanks for the help!

s_kavert:

What type of crampons do you have? If you are like me and have a universal type of strap ( Grivel G12 ) you can wear them on almost anything. Of course, the more flexible the shoe, the increase of stress on the bar of the crampon and the higher possibility of it breaking/snapping. I've worn my G12s on trail runners (Ritter/Banner last July), all the way through my Montrail Mountaineering boots. Last weekend, I wore them over my Asolo boots with excellent results.

Long story short, I think it depends on your comfort level w/ the crampons on the shoes in varied terrain. If it's steep, I prefer a stiffer boot. If I'm cruisin' along, I go lighter.

Hope this helps!

-L

s_kavert wrote:
> I realize a backpacking boot isn't enough for Shasta and I'll assume the conditions in June on Whitney would be similar.

Whitney in June is not similar to Shasta. There is far more ice and snow on Shasta, and Shasta has no trail. If you're hiking the Whitney main trail, you may be able to avoid whatever snow and ice that is left.

And I've climbed Shasta several times, always with crampons on hiking boots.

Just for fun, here's a picture from the Shasta North Gate trail head last Monday.

I guess I should have clarified... I've only climbed Shasta from the south side (AG) route in a low snow year so that's what I was comparing Whitney in June to.

Figured the Trago would be a good choice... Lots of support, good for crampons, but still a summer boot.

Moose-i have BD contact straps. If I can get by with a backpacking boot, something like the Asolo fugitive, that might be the way to go, although I think I might want something more rigid for Shasta/Adams.