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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Just a quick trip report at the request of some fellow climbers we saw heading down on the way in.

Approach / De-proach:
Was pretty straightforward on the way in, could stay in the gully and off the ledges. On the way out a lot of stuff had really softened and there was significant postholing to be had.

Route:
Perfect styrofoam snow to kick steps in up the main couloir, snowpack was wind-scoured, but seemed very stable. a few rocks in the top of the couloir, but nothing serious at all.

Above the notch the second couloir involved some easy mixed climbing, which was exciting but straightforward (we did not rope up). On the way down we took the traverse alternate which had great snow and much easier than the upper couloir.

All-in-all a great trip, spectacular conditions, and what scenery!

AlpinWeiss

Joined: Jan 2003
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thanks for taking the time to post useful information. it is appreciated.

Joined: Jul 2008
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Joined: Jul 2008
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Great news. Did you use skis or snowshoes up there at all. How long/many days did you take.

cheers

Joined: Feb 2009
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Joined: Feb 2009
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had a leisurely start saturday morning around 9am, camped at iceberg lake by 3pm. began ascent sunday morning 4:30am, summitted by 8:30.

snowshoes going up on saturday the final third to and from iceberg; before that early morn sat they weren't needed, sunday coming down they weren't helping much. obviously, time your ascent & descent carefully to take advantage of the snow conditions throughout the day

cheers!

Joined: Nov 2005
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How would you describe the snow coverage in the North Chute (above the notch)?

Is it skiable this year?


Joined: Dec 2006
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Congrats AlpinWeiss and sharperblue! Any pix posted? smile


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