Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mts. Whitney and Muir, 23 - 24 May

I'll let the pictures give the trip report. Or if you prefer the slide show version, check here. People are always curious about the route up Mt. Muir, so I took plenty of pictures while we were doing that.

You can see the change in snow coverage and depth by comparing pictures here with similar pictures a week ago.

On the descent, near the end of the cables, some people told us about this couple behind them, saying that someone should contact the rangers because they were endangering themselves. When I saw them I understood. My first impression was that the fellow was about 25 and his female companion 13, but those numbers could be way off. He had a daypack, she had none. Both were wearing tennis shoes, but neither had ice ax, crampons or hiking poles. The fellow had a gallon milk jug of water in each hand. She was on her hands and knees, crawling up the snow behind him, and wimpering. And they were approaching the most dangerous part of the climb: the cables section, with ice at the far end.

I stopped to talk to them. I was wearing my mountain rescue T-shirt, with insignia. In the sternest voice I could muster, I said "You have to turn around, right now!" "Why?" "Because from here on up, it gets really icy and dangerous, and if you continue you will probably die. My friends and I will have to come and haul your bodies out, and we don't like to do that." He said they were going anyway.

Knowing that I had no authority, knowing that they were doing nothing illegal, and knowing that Mt. Whitney attracts many "accidents waiting to happen" but usually they don't, I shrugged my shoulders. I told them that they had no chance to make the summit before dark. He said they had flashlights.

I continued down. Talking with people below, I learned that they were the buzz of the mountain. It seems that everyone was encouraging them to descend. They had flown into Las Vegas the night before, rented a car and drove to Whitney Portal. They started hiking at 6:00 AM. (It was about 1:30 when we passed them.)

The good news is that most of these "accidents waiting to happen" never do. People do decide to turn around, or they don't and only spend an uncomfortable cold night out, and we don't hear about them again. I certainly hope that's the case here.

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I learned later that ranger Brian had talked with them on the way up, at Trailside Meadow. He mentioned some additional concern about the female, and that he encouraged them to turn back. They had a permit, though, otherwise he would have ordered them to do so. He was happy to know that Kim and Mary spotted them on their descent, through Outpost Camp.

Hi Bob, I only wonder if these 2 were able to summit? Hmmm.

Can you provide more detail regarding trail conditions? I currently have plans to backpack in on Thursday & summit on Friday. Our current plans: hiking poles & gators only...no crampons or ice axe.

Bob,
Don't know if they summited or not, but they strolled past our camp at Outpost around 7:30pm last night(Sunday).

Thanks, Kim. That's good news. I'm sure they didn't summit. Taking your 7:30 and estimating their travel rate based on how long it took them to get from the Portal to the cables, they may have made it to Trail Crest before turning around. Perhaps a little farther, if they didn't take too many rest stops.

Nice to meet you and Mary at Outpost.

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CRSO, if you won't have ax or crampons, you should travel the switchbacks during the part of the day they are most safe (least icy). That's between about 9 AM and 3 PM, assuming normal weather conditions. Since the average hiker takes about seven hours to go up from Trail Camp and back, that window is pretty narrow. (Nathan and I took about 7 1/2, including a one hour diversion to climb Mt. Muir. But we're out there pretty regularly.)

That is about all you can do, Bob. People are going to do what the want to do no matter what someone with obviously more experience tells them.

I just move away as fast as I can because I really do not want to see the damage, having seen it way too many times.

Nice pictures. As far as the "accidents waiting to happen" sounds like they were not very well prepared but I think telling them if they continue they will die is a bit harsh as summit fever plagues everyone at one time or another and you probaby scared the hell out of the 13 year old. I have seen this type of situation many times on different mountains and usually find that no matter what you tell certain people they will more than likely continue without incident prepared or not. From your pictures it doesn't look that bad to me but of course I wouldn't be wearing tennis shoes. I see no reason why someone with gaitors and trekking poles couldn't make it easily.

IMHO people should worry about themselves (unless someone in injured or sick) instead of gossiping about some flat landers who weren't prepared and who according to someone else did make it back down and I for one hope they did make the summit,.

Already I smell the fuel , they flew into Vegas From Colorado Oh yea out east there around Burlington, but then again they tend not to wear tennis shoes more of the broughan country.

Lets try saying I passed this couple , they were heading for a very risky encounter ahead.... bridge is out and it's getting dark , but you know I would cheat them out of this very experience if I told them, so I nod and in California we say have a nice day, but I them must never look back, tell anyone else that you know if I would of just sorta of said I turned back because the canyon below the bridge if filling with bodies and looks like your group is heading for the same result, unless coming from the flatland you have developed skills that allow you to leap tall building and jump great heights.

So Did Bob talking with the couple save the life of one or both of the people? Did it save S&R A TRIP FOR RECOVERY OR REMOVAL , We will never know . But we do know that on this Tuesday morning it is easy to point fingers and grandstand what I would have done. Thanks Doug

Glad to meet you in person finally. I've learned lots about hiking, climbing and Whitney over the years from reading your posts. Thank you! And glad you did not have to make a return trip to the mountain that day:-)

This will be our situation as well. We will be taking microspikes for extra traction if needed b/c we're not trained in using crampons or ice axes (at least I don't think watching YouTube videos of arresting a glissade counts for training!).

Based on Bob's previously listed itinerary + the additional 20% factor, we would need to leave the portal around 3:30-4am to arrive at Trail Camp during the least icy time frame mentioned above. Our original plan was to leave at 12-1am to get ourselves off the summit before stormy hour, but this may be putting us at the cables before the ice has softened.

Any suggestions?

Thank you for the TR and pix. The weather conditions seem to be getting somewhat unpredictable.

"She was on her hands and knees, crawling up the snow behind him, and wimpering." It doesn't sound like his companion was much enjoying herself. Well, you did all you could do. At least you took the time to try. I commend you for that.

CK1,
I can't speak for Bob but it seems after reading his post that he was ascribing to the quote at the end of your posts. He wasn't judging others simply by how they look, but rather by their actions towards wilderness, nature,and his compassionate concern for his fellow man.

That "13" year old is probably glad Bob R came along. I know I would be if my leader was wearing tennis shoes and carrying two jugs of water - making both hands practically useless during a sudden and dangerous change in footing.

My guess is he really did not understand the conditions ahead - hence the tennis shoes (which might be great in July).

A few thoughts, personal observations, thank you:

(1) Actually telling an obviously unprepared individual he might die on the Mountain this time of year is not farfetched at all. Last month there were two unrelated accidents up there, each involving a fatality. Apparently sliding down snow and rock was common to both cases, which is the issue at the cables if one were to slip. ( As some might not know, Bob R generously volunteered his time and effort to recovering some of the personal effects of one of those who tragically died.)

(2) I am glad to see someone had the guts to talk to this couple in real world terms. Even though the couple went on past the cables, their subsequent decision process might have been influenced by the warning they were given at the cables. (Hey, maybe that old dude at the cables really did know what he was talking about!) Thus, it is conceivable that the lecture at the cables was the reason they were later seen walking through Outpost Camp.

(3) Yesterday (5/25), I went up Mount Whitney by the Main Trail. At 0750 I went by the cables under clear skies. Indeed the last section of the traverse was all ice. There was no obvious bypass. The icy section was not apparent from the start of the cables. It was just lying there patiently waiting for you. I appreciated the crampons I had just put on. (Going up at the cables was the only time I wore crampons during the entire day.)
When I descended by the cables at about 1400 it was snowing with good visibility, no significant wind, and not cold. (I did not need to put on gloves.) The icy section had mellowed out and boots and walking stick/ice ax were sufficient for safe passage. But if had not warmed up, again crampons might have been the way to go.

(4) Bob R, Thanks for this update on current conditions. Also the location of little known campsites is appreciated. Although some of these sites might not be our first choice for camp selection, they can be employed in unanticipated circumstances when we must go to "Plan B."

Hope everone has a great and safe summer, Jim

Besides the cables section of the Switchbacks, about how many other sections would crampons and ice axe be recommended this week?

Bob - those Muir pictures are more "Bob R Classics" - much appreciated.