Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board May/June Conditions on the Main Whitney Trail

For those of you interested in trying to climb Mt. Whitney this spring you should be aware of current conditions, and more importantly how to interpret those conditions to help you decide how to make decisions with safety in mind.

Snow is still present on Mt. Whitney left over from the winter. You can count on negotiating a snow covered trail from somewhere above Trail Camp until Trail Crest and possibly farther. From the cables until Trail Crest there are hazardous areas where a slip can turn into a fall that can lead to an injury or fatality. This section is part of what most of us refer to as the “97 Switchbacks”. The weather has been unstable since the last week in May. This coupled with the fact that the 97 switchbacks are on a north facing slope between 12,400' and over 13,600' means the snow will not melt off quickly until temperatures warm up.

Given these conditions there are certain things to keep in mind if you decide to attempt climbing Mt. Whitney via the Main Trail. This list is not exhaustive but is a good place to start:

(1) Recognize that your ascent will take longer than it would if the trail was dry. Plan extra time into your itinerary to account for this.

(2a) Realize that current conditions require climbers to have learned and practiced several mountaineering skills which include self arrest with an ice axe (this is how you would attempt to stop yourself in the event of a slip on the hard snow and ice), how to walk with crampons on, and how to efficiently climb up and down snow covered slopes.

(2b) This means that ski poles are no substitute for an ice axe. Ski poles are great aids in walking. Ascending a route they are like a portable hand rail. On a descent they help reduce some of the jarring to hiker’s knees. They will do nothing to help stop a person in case of a fall. Yes, some ski poles are made with self arrest grips. This is no substitute for an ice axe.

(3a) The slope between Trail Camp and Trail Crest is north facing. This means it loses sun exposure early in the day. You can be on this slope during a warm sunny day and find the snow comfortable to walk on, but once the sun leaves this slope the snow will become firm, hard, and slick. It will stay that way until the sun hits it again, which might be the next day, or it might take several days if clouds obscure direct rays from the sun. Even with direct sun exposure the conditions could still be firm, hard, and slick.

(3b) Be prepared to climb on firm, hard, and slick snow. If you find yourself on this slope after the sun begins leaving this area you need to be prepared to negotiate increasingly firm, hard, and slick snow conditions.

(4a) Sliding down the snow on your butt (commonly called “glissading” among the mountaineering community) from Trail Crest is not a safe option. It doesn’t matter if you see tracks from people who have previously done it. Among those who contributed to glissade tracks in previous seasons include several people who lost their lives from the decision to glissade there.

(4b) People have tried glissading here for years. Understand that this slope is subtly angled in such a way that it can pull an unsuspecting mountaineer slowly to the left, which can make you slam into the rocks at a high rate of speed. There have been many injuries and even fatalities due to people glissading here.

(4c) If you decide to glissade anywhere on any mountain, remove your crampons. Glissading with crampons is never an option. You run a high chance of injuring an ankle, a leg, or worse. It is extremely poor mountaineering technique to glissade while wearing crampons anywhere at any time.

(5a) Remember that the summit should not be your primary goal. Your first goal is to get back to the parking lot safely. If you can stay within a good margin of safety, then the summit should be your second goal. This means that just because somebody else decided to ascend in questionable conditions it should not determine what you decide to do. You need to make your decisions based on your known skills and the ability of your group.

(6) There have been reports of people leaving crampons and ice axes in their cars because people down below told them they weren't needed or were too dangerous for the inexperienced. Don't take that advice at face value. Ask questions about conditions and get reports from as many people as possible. If in doubt, don't leave the gear behind. It's better to take it and not need it than the other way around.

Climbing up a mountain is optional, descending is mandatory.

Excellent advice. I will give Whitney a shot on Friday, but I realize with the icy conditions it may just not be a complete summit trip.

Thanks, Kurt!!

We are hiking the circumnavigational route starting on July 3rd, and back down the main trail, and now I am a little more concerned that I should be taking an ice axe and crampons with the late season, unexpected storms. Do you think they will be necessary at that time? I would really like to avoid dropping another $300 on these items if at all possible (probably the only time I will use them in my life and can't seem to find any for rent), but obviously safety is first and foremost. We really need to decide if we need these soon, so we can make sure we have applicable training time with them (experienced hikers but haven't used crampons). Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!

What's your opinion about Instep Crampons? Looks like a lower cost alternative for someone who rarely uses crampons & never on "ice climbing".

Do not use instep crampons on Mt. Whitney.

The places you need them, it is steep. You need the real thing climbing or descending in those situations.

Hi All,

We are headed to Whitney on Friday. We are hoping to summit on Sunday. (We have been to Whitney before. Last year, we came within 1/2mi of the summit before we turned around due to T-storms. It was the night that there were mudslides at Portal)

We will have 10pt flexible crampons and ice axes but we have not used them before. We have been acquainting ourselves with techniques (grips, self-belay, arrest, step cutting) from books/youtube, etc. but were wondering if there was a good, safe place to practice prior to ascent? Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Peter H.

I can't believe what I am reading. If you have no prior experience using ice tools, my only advice would be to error on the side of safety and if you feel exposed and in need of the equipment, you should turn around. You can get comfortable on the hike up with the extra traction of the crampons and balance of the ice ax, however unless you have practiced how to self arrest on a steep slope untill it becomes second nature, you may not stop yourself in time. A fall on hard ice is alot different than a soft moderate snow slope, I have lost my ax in the sudden slip and only reflex has kept me face to the rock and able to reach up and grab my ax (I have a runner to my climbing harness so I can change hands and grips without messing with a leash, and it keeps it where I can get it back in a fall, and after acceleration, the runner has saved my life as I dug through 2" ice on top of the snow slope and came to a sudden stop). It looks like it is snowing on the mountain now so there will be more time getting falsely comfortable with new skills on the hike up. I suggest your main goal be learning some new mountaineering skills while enjoying Mt Whitney, and making the summit a lesser priority. Things should be fine if you start early and do not push yourself too hard as I feel the most dangerous thing for beginners is trippig when catching a front point on a pant leg or gator(easier to do when tired). Good luck and be safe.

SnowshoeDave's Dad

we rented gear @ Wilson's in Bishop.

http://eastsidesports.com/eastside/node/9

Great people & great rates on rentals - $40 for both for 5 days

Cheers

Hi davidlayla,

First, thank you for your feedback. I have read all your other posts on related topics as well. Our group has discussed our goals and the first goal is to get back to the parking lot. Second goal is to get some practice with the tools. Third goal is to summit if possible. If we don't feel comfortable we will turn around.

Our group has a significant amount of outdoor experience. We have nearly summitted Whitney before. We are taking the main trail. We are conscientious, self-aware and properly equipped. That doesn't mean things can't go wrong but we will be careful.

An anecdote might help give you some insight to our mindset:
Last year 3 out of 6 in the group turned around at the first clap of thunder about 1/2mi from the summit. The other 3 went on, summitted and arrived back at trail camp just before the hail, thunder and lightning broke loose. Could we have made it? Yes.
Did we make the right decision to turn around when we did? Yes.
Was it heartbreaking not to make the summit? Yes.

The three guys that turned around are the same three going back this year but we are not so goal focused as to make poor decisions. We will only take what the mountain will give.

So back to my original question:
Are there any good places to practice that someone can recommend?

Best regards,
PH

PH,

I do not believe the main trail should be a problem with the right mindset and attitude. I feel that there are only a couple of places where the danger is real, however if you are aware of what is coming you should be fine. There might be an ice slope by the waterfall at the end of the portal road. It is at low altitude, however it stays shady. If there is now snow down low, there should be some by consultation lake, and up towards trail camp for practice before your summit attempt. If you stay off of the steep ice slopes and gullys, the summit should be no problem. I suggest one person bring a length of rope and a little chord and webbing in case you end up needing it to go down, as we all know it is more technically difficult to descend than to climb. Whatever you do, do not rope together if all your skills are low. It is safer to let everyone belay (with ice ax)themselves than to have a group of lesser experienced people all fall because no one can self arrest. I always have my ax in the uphill hand on a traverse in the self arrest hold as this is where you are most prone to slipping, and watch the front points as you step. The other hard thing for bigenners is mixed ice and rock, which you should find lots of. Be sure-footed when walking on granite and aware your footing will feel really different. I suggest walking around your yard(you can aerate the soil also) and mix up the surface. (Good steel mountaineering crampons are designed for the abuse, not the cheap aluminum ones). Last April, I took a friend up the main trail who had 30 min practice with ice tools on Baldy last year, and he had no problem even in the chute next to the cables. It was only after we got home and I was looking at the pictures did it dawn on me what could have happened if he fell on one of the traverses past trail crest. As I said, everything was fine and we took our time, however I did second guess myself as to whether we should have turned around due to his skill. Have a safe and fun time, and remember to watch the front points on your clothes (they will rip the best gaiters and mountaineering pants). I wish my wife would let me come up for Fathers Day weekend, Oh Well....

Conclusions,
1, go as far as your skill will let you
2, ask questions and advice, however be careful to let people know your experience as they will try to tell you this is the hardest mountain, very dangerous ect, and try to turn you around
3, have FUN

SnowshoeDaves Dad

Thanks for the advice, David. That all sounds reasonable.

Strange that we can't do what we want for Father's Day, no?

PH

Kurt or anyone,

For a proposed trip on June 14 for relatively inexperienced hikers, considering the icy conditions, would you recommend to bypass the 97 switchbacks and go up to Trail Crest through the snowfield. What are the advantages and disadvantages?

Thanks,

ERhodes

We have two people coming to hike Whitney Friday.

Here are some pictures posted by hikers who hiked on June 06:

If the trail is icy, the steeper slopes will have the same conditions with more exposure to a fall. It is easier to walk the trail than to climb a slope with ice. Go up and see for yourself what the conditions are as they change constantly. I have noticed people who do not summit tend to exaggerate the difficulty ahead, maybe it is their skill comfort level or they are trying to justify why they did not make it and would prefer nobody else to. I have been advised to turn around due to waist deep postholing ahead, only to find a couple of places where we would sink 18" and routefinding was more the issue. That guy probably got 3-4 groups to turn around for no reason. Do not be scared of hard work, only dangerous conditions.

SnowshoeDaves Dad

Those are some awesome photos for this time of year. I can't believe that it has been snowing for so long this year. While I know it can still be winter conditions up there, I did not think it would be so consistant for so long.

Here's a few pix from a hike to Trail Camp on June 13, 2009.

Constellation Lake


Lake at Trail Camp


Lower switchers


Whitney on a cloudy day


Lots of folks headed up the SBs... bet they had a chilly day. It started snowing at Trail Camp around 1100. There were snow flurries all the way down to Outpost Camp

Ranboze, how was it going up the SBs? Did you have crampons and ice axes? I'll be going up with a group on the 27 of this month.
Those are some really cool pictures.

Randy... my target was only Trail Camp. If the sun would come out for more than 60 seconds at a time, things might melt. A group of BPs came over the crest on Fri from Guitar Lake w/o crampons. But Friday was sunny and snow probably softer. Saturday was a different story Im sure.

Ranboze, thanks for the reply. Yeah it would be great if the sun came out for a while. This is the earliest that I've gone and I'm not used to all the continuing snow. Thanks