Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Crampons & Ice Axe

Elsewhere in this forum I asked for opinions about 4 pt instep crampons. Steve C. answered back not to use them on Mt. Whitney because the trail's too steep (thanks for the feedback). I guess what I'm looking for is why they would or would not be good on the MMWT. When is a trail too steep, or what conditions might they be less useful than 8 or 10 pt crampons. Seems that this time of year, the snow is patchy and with care, 10 pt might be overkill. I really don't want to invest in all the money for a single trip.

Also, anywhere in the Lone Pine area where I can rent crampons & an ice axe? I'd rather rent than buy.

Here's where you might need them:

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/62548/page/3#Post62548

As for rentals:
http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=1&Number=62523&Searchpage=1&Main=8244&Words=%2Brent+%2Bcrampons&topic=0&Search=true#Post62523

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=1&Number=61306

You can rent crampons at "Elevation". A hiking store on Main St. in Lone Pine.

Instep crampons may be OK in a icy parking lot where you can shuffle your feet to keep the points close to the hard surface. On steep and uneven terrain, any step you take that raises the heel and transfers weight forward toward the ball of the foot disengages the points just when they are needed most. Coming downhill stepping onto a hard surface even the heel of your boot may not penetrate to allow the points to engage the surface. 10 and 12 point crampons have points on the outline of the boot sole to ensure there will be contact between points and hard surface at all times the foot is placed.

Patchy snow conditions don't help. The patches that remain are there because they are in places that can stay icy more of the day. If they have made you feel less concerned about conditions, they have made you less safe. On the icy parts, once you start to slide you can't expect to stop happily. Ice ax and crampon skills are about preventing slips in the first place and responding immediately to prevent speed build-up if that fails.

The common technical term for a successful stop by ice ax on an icy surface after reaching speed is 'miracle'.

Dale B. Dalrymple
http://dbdimages.com

Hi DLab,

Have the items you are looking for, you are welcome to borrow them.

Ice ax and 10 point crampons (Stubai very light weight)

Send me an email bmettenleiter@san.rr.com

Live in Rancho Bernardo

I have the same question (4 step OK?) Also, had been contemplating going w/o ice axe.

But I will be going later. Will be starting the JMT July 1 in Yosemite and will be at Whitney July 20.

I hadn't been too concerned about conditions, but we're having weird weather this year; and then read that solo female hikers' account.

I appreciate any input.

JOn

I was up on May 28th. I had both crampons and axe.

I bare-booted the entire trip, though there were two or three sketchy sections where crampons would have provided more confidence. I did use my axe to glissade down the chute.

As you know conditions change and each person's level of experience is different. In my opinion, the only section of the MMWT that is "steep" is the switchbacks. When I hiked there were only three sections where there was snow - the cables, and two traverses near the top.

I would use your own judgment and look at conditions closer to your hike. If the chute is still snow covered by then, you may at least want to bring your axe in case you decide to glissade - a real time saver in my opinion.

Thanks for the input. While I am certainly not new to backpacking, nor to the Sierra, we will encounter conditions new to me. I've not needed to use crampons nor ice axe on previous trips.

Hi All,

On a separate thread I posed the question: were wondering if there was a good, safe place to practice prior to ascent? Any recommendations? Is there some place near trail camp?

We will have 10pt flexible crampons and ice axes but we have not used them before. We have been acquainting ourselves with techniques (grips, self-belay, arrest, step cutting) from books/youtube, etc. but would like to practice.

I received some feedback but thought the posters in this thread might provide more pertinent feedback.

The other thread is here: http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/62961/page/1#Post62961. Starting at 63042.

Thanks in advance.
PH

On this board, you don't usually find one group of people reading certain threads while other groups of people read other threads. So there really isn't any advantage to posting the same question in two different topics/threads.

CaT

Its interesting that it has been asked in two different threads, which as stated wouldn't be advantageous, yet no replies with suggestions for spots to practice. I have been watching these two threads hoping for an answer, because I wish to know myself. Since I don't know, I can't offer suggestions, I would if I knew.

My experience with 4 point crampons is that they are good for nothing! I carried them on many trips, and whenever I used them, they were inadequate on any type of slope. They will not provide the protection you need and/or desire.

Until the trail is free of snow, most likely sometime in July, you’ll need to carry an ice ax and crampons. Depending in the conditions on the day/time you climb, you may/may not need to use them. If conditions get icy, and you don’t have them, you will not be able to advance safely. If that happens on your ascent, you’ll just need to turn back and you will miss the entire point of you’re trip. If things ice up later in the day, as they often do, you’ll risk your life trying to descend… Cheap trip/life insurance in my opinion.

In rock climbing, guidebooks are common because most conditions change slowly over long periods of time. On snow surfaces the suitability for travel and safety practice varies rapidly. Snow depth and consolidation and terrain coverage vary throughout the seasons. Snow surface conditions change depending on temperature, wind, sun hit and precipitation. A single area's suitability will change with time of day. I know places I have used, but I used them based on judgments made there and then. Don't expect anyone knowledgeable to recommend a place without the presence of someone capable of evaluating on the spot.

Dale B. Dalrymple
http://dbdimages.com

Thanks Dale,

Your post helps to answer the question. Once we get to trail camp we'll look at the set-up and conditions and find a safe spot to tool around, sans packs.

Regards

THanks bj. That's exactly the info I've been looking for. I prefer to hike safe & adequately prepared. I have a friend that has both, and I should be able to borrow (rent) his.

Jon