Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Summit Attempt on 6/10/09

Just came back from cable areas today.

Be prepared to wear crampons a few switchbacks before and around the cables. The last cable in that section is buried, so it is very sketchy going around, not to mention the increase in unstable weather. This is where I was humbled and turned around.
I had crampons and axe, but got spooked and used my best judgment. However, without those tools, I did not have a shot. I am an athlete, and in great shape, however, I have novice mountaineering skills. So, remember this when you attempt a summit, at least this week or next Be prepared for winter-like conditions. Make trail camp your first challenge, then switchbacks, then crest......and if your lucky, summit.

Trail Camp - basically frozen, we got snowed on for 4 hours Tuesday night. . Be prepared to get a water fill 1 mile below trail camp. The main snow line starts just above tree level and continues all the way up. It was still a great hike. The conditions were tough for a 1st timer, but I was glad to be humbled and I think she offered me another chance

I was stoked to make it back for a burger and pale ale.

Miklo

Thanks for the update on conditions, sounds like you had a great time.

Glad to see you used your brain and turned around. I stopped at trail camp on a very stormy lightning day in mid-August a few years ago, knowing it's just too risky. I wasn't that obsessed with a place I'd already been to the top of 2x before.

Hopefully 3x this year in about 6 weeks.

I too was humbled on the mountain this week. I headed up Wednesday morning (today). Everyone that was walking down said that they could not make it past the cables or even Trail Camp. One climber described Tuesday night's weather as a "Blizzard." We spoke with someone from the Forest Service (the guy doing the "Lightning Survey") and he said the official report was 2' of snow at Trail Camp on Tuesday night.

Personally, my group went as far as Mirror Lake. It was already starting to snow there and we kept seeing more discouraged hikers coming down the mountain. Supposedly people were summitting, but we did not see any of these people. I had ice axe and crampons and was prepared to make an attempt when I set out that morning. However, the weather was turning bad and is supposed to stay bad this week. We didn't feel like digging through 2' of snow to make camp and we knew at that point that a summit was most likely out of the question.

So, we turned back and enjoyed pizza and beer down in town.

Good luck to anyone going soon. Its going to be rough. I'll be back in August!

Definitely a week for the pros. Great thing is that there was no wind, so it was warm, guessed about 25 at TC. Warmer when the sun came out. Took us about 4.5 hours from TC back to portal today, no rain, no snow, but around 7 hours from portal to TC Tuesday. Mainly due to snow and lots of climb negotiations.

Miklo:

Thanks for this. You made some good decisions up there, and that is a sign of a responsible and smart mountaineer. Congratulations! I am hoping conditions improve next week: got a big trip coming up!!

-L

Thanks! Good luck.

Miklo,
Was there deep enough postholing to warrant gaiters? Thanks for the report.
-Dustin

Only in certain sections. I didn't have gaiters and was more than fine. Most of the deeper areas, there were tracks laid, so hollow steps were there. On switchbacks, it was crampons on/crampons off. Snow was nice and packed. Just have good crampons and axe from TC up. Anywhere below you can manage with trek poles and good boots

Miklo,

Can you post a few photos from your stay at Trail Camp and the area where your turned back? That would be very helpful. I'm trying to dissuade some friends from making an attempt next week. Or at least prepare them for what awaits.

As soon as I get them from my partner.... For now check out those pics posted under "May/June Conditions on the Main Whitney Trail" subject. There are three photos that depict the current conditions very well. (fog-sun). Visibility changes every hour....usually, morning is best visibility..

Miklo