We used an ice axe - carried our crampons. I was a first timer with no experience - and I just turned 40, I'm reasonably fit - (no marathons) and reasonably cautious. We left the Portal about 9 am Sat the 26th after downing one of those incredible pancakes I read about ( I think there is cinnamon in there). We had a group of about 12 total - but we were unofficially divided by skill and age.. and started a various times. (we had matching shirts though!) We took our time up to Trail Camp - I wasn't use to carrying a pack; I was very full from breakfast; and we were enjoying the views. We arrived at camp about 4... and went to bed about 9...wanted to see that full moon, but also wanted to get some rest. I had decided before we left that trail camp would prob be my summit...it would be good enough - I wasn't going to climb a chute. I figured I had: never slept in a tent, never been to 12,000 feet, never used a wag bag so that seemed good enough for a first timer. BUT when I woke up Sunday morning feeling good, weather was amazing and reports were that the switchbacks were passable -I decided I had to make a go of it. We left for the summit at 8:30 am. For a first timer with a slight fear of heights - it was definitely a challenge...but totally doable. We used an ice axe, but not the crampons (which we had on our packs) The snow fields were intimidating...but the only 2 places where I was really concerend were the cables...we went under, held on and walked on the outside (when I look at the pics that were posted I thought that doesn't look so bad - but it felt scary!) The other place that was intimidating was the transition from the switchbacks to trail crest...we had to "scramble" up the boulders. Somebody wrote that it isn't technical, and I guess if you have done that before it's prob true bc physically speaking: it wasn't super hard; but, when you don't have experience climbing up rocks...doing so at 13,000 feet knowing that you really can't afford to mess up - is intimiadting. On trail crest there were a few more snow crossings, but nothing too bad. All of this is prob irrelevant bc after spending 45 min at the summit (which was amazing) we headed down at 2 pm - and the conditions had already changed...the snow was melting at a furious pace....If the weather doesn't change much, I have the impression in the next few weeks you will be more concerned with water and mud...the switchbacks that had some water flow in the morning, were literally waterfalls when we descended. (We did not glissade although some in our group wanted to) After packing up our camp and eatting a little, we headed down about about 6:30 pm. I was dreading putting on that pack, but it wasn't that bad. We took a couple breaks on the way out. The primary thing I noticed was how much more intense the waterfalls were on the way out...as well as the mud/water on the trail. It got pretty dark around about 8:45pm...we used head lamps for the last hour or so..(just fyi - I laughed when my friend told me to buy a head lamp...my advice, buy a good one!) The last hour I was not a happy camper - but still had a smile as I debated in my head what hurt most...my toe, knee or back. Remarkably, other than being a little sore today, I feel great...and honestly pretty proud. It is an amazing climb...you can do it, especially if you are reading this with concern for conditions. Best of luck.
