Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineers Route

It's too early to tell yet. We won't know until (or if) the snow falls. On a normal year snowshoes are definitely helpful. These past two winters they haven't been necessary on the vast majority of the trips I've done in there.

When are you planning on going?

Dec 26th

Anyone has climb Mountaineers route this past week and can share the conditions on the notch and the final 400' chute? Thanks.

Hi Norma, the current MR conditions are muy bueno (aka, very dry).
One iceflow in the middle of the final ‘400 is easily avoided and there’s no ice on the entrance moves
Photos from last Sat (9/26)
https://grahamcracker.smugmug.com/2015/Whitney-Hike-Sept-26-2015/
Have fun

Thank you Ken for the TR and for posting the great pictures...A lot of my hiking friends are flaking out but I might try to head out there this weekend....

Hey anyone that has questions about the route up the Mountaineer's area check out Grahams set of photos!!!! They cover the route very well, long needed complete set. Thanks great seeing you this past weekend.

Nice set. Looks like a great time. Thanks!

Surprised to see so little activity on this thread this season. I will be on the route in about 2 weeks and wondering if there is still enough snow in the chute to require crampons and ice axes or if I should expect a scree ascent. Any recent info would be appreciated!

Likewise. I'm headed up with 4 others July 15. If there aren't any posts I will be sure to post description and pictures when I get back on the 18th.

Hey Phil posted about a week ago , still some snow and ice on the last 400' and the bottom of the chute but as always can be avoided by using the rocks.

Thanks Doug.
Richard, I will look for your info. Have a great trip.
Gary

All the snow is avoidable other than getting onto or off of the blocks.

7/6/16

How was the chute up from Iceberg?

Some snow on both the left and right (main) chutes but all avoidable. Mostly dry though and drying out quickly. The streams are running strong with the melt off.

Took a group of five up this weekend. Conditions were outstanding. Still some snow in the lower section of the chute above iceberg lake. My preferred route is to the left on the rocks to get around the scree here anyway so that route keeps you off of that snow and then there was nothing of significance above that. Chute above the notch is completely clear of snow. I should have some pictures ready in a couple of days and will post them. My only other observation was thousand of mosquito larva getting ready to hatch in the marshes around lower boyscout lake. I would expect to encounter significant mosquitos in the next few weeks.

It's been awhile so might be time to mention a few hints on the Mountaineer Route . Never end up in the bowl north of Upper Boyscout Lake , That's why we say you should NOT see upper Boyscout Lake until you are South of the ridge and looking back down on the lake.

Next is the "waterfall area" since at least 4 waterfalls can be found in the upper section .many people take by mistake the wrong waterfall route. You never need to touch the area of any of the "waterfall" The falls below Iceberg can be bypassed and several easy climbs farther west can lead you to Iceberg.

If you look high on the ridge North'ly you should see a carin, Watch for this landmark. I notice many are taking the harder right route and have trouble, others are going back into the canyon and need to backtrack. So as you pass below the waterfall take the path that drops some elevation and starts climbing a loose scree slope after about 100 'gain you should be on rock and work your way North and west.

From Iceberg many take the smaller chute just left of the main chute , this ramp will lead you above the large rock the blocks the main chute and also keeps you out of the scree most of the way up.

I still see some maps the have the route dashed in and the line takes you to the ridge in the Upper Boyscout Lake area ,make sure you are left of the ridge and join a very well beaten path .

What is the collective wisdom about how long it takes to get from the Portal store to the E-ledges for an average group carrying ~35-40 pound packs? I'm thinking about what is the latest time to start in the afternoon in order to complete the ledges before it gets dark in mid September (~7 pm sunset).

Thanks.

Carrying a light daypack = 60 minutes...add some time for heavier pack - 90 minutes

Each mountain will have the potential area for accidents,Whitney is not exempt. On the main trail 3 areas tend to see the most recovery events ,walk off the trail and off the area above the waterfall at outpost camp, next is just below Trailside meadow ,people miss the trail out of Trailcamp and take the slabs down and fall into the area above Mirror Lake the next area is during early and late season is the snow slope above Trailcamp.
On the North Fork the last 400 feet when people choose the traverse to the south along the very steep sideslope,which can be covered with fresh snow over very hard blue ice or decomposed granite over the ice. The problem is this route may have a boot track and with limited climbing skills look a lot less intimidating than the normal route. We talked with the Park many years ago and they flew over to take pictures of the area,they show the tracks with detail of the area,This area of concern is common knowledge for many years but we still sadly know of accidents in this area we might recall 6 or more,Please understand the conditions ,changing conditions and the need for the experience to travel cross-country up steep terrain.Our prayers are with the family and friends that have fallen in this area or the areas on the main trail.

Melting out fast