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Joined: Dec 2002
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Had a great walk up to the Portal yesterday with Richard, we shared some of the past adventures of this season so far. Meet several groups either going up or coming down . Reports of very deep snow and icy slopes , on the main trail one group would not do it without a rope and climbing experience .West side drifts and icy slopes.

Another slide within the last 2 weeks , could of covered the lower portion of the main trail. Snow level at the Portal 2-3 feet .

Road is closed so this will add 3.6 mikes to the trailhead and work on road may require you to wait to get pasts a work zone or the road could close for foot traffic. The NRT trail is dry to the Meysan Creek area , but last year we think the bridge was washed out so not an easy way to cross, also above this area is deep snow on a steep side slope with rockfall coming down often (I Don't think this is an option for safe travel.)

If you are not geared or experienced in winter mountaineering I would suggest come later in the season .

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First time poster, many time reader. Can't thank everyone enough for all the great posts over time regarding conditions, safety, and equipment recommendations.

So for those experienced with this much of a winter snowpack, what is your best guess as to the earliest the summit can be reached via the main trail without ice axe or crampons being needed? Taking my 14 year old daughter in late August and actually wondering if even that will be late enough...

Ohikero #105280 05/01/23 07:34 AM
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Thanks for the question,several areas of the main trail can have ice all year,the cable area,since the trail was cut into a water seep,north facing and solid rock often this area will have ice but can be crossed with caution,the n ext area is the last long switchback before trail crest early snow will get packed down and become ice,again can be crossed with care.
By mid July we will know how the main trail is melting out.This is the period when the shift is from the chute over to the 97 switchback.The chute is often turning to more ice than snow and rocks are showing through.A slip at this period most often will cause injury.
Last thought we have our first snow most often the third week of August ,this clears quickly but starts our winter cycle of a system about every 7-10 days,many systems pass with little or no moisture but can bring cold air into the area.

Doug Sr #105286 05/01/23 02:45 PM
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Thanks--I have read about the cables, am prepared for that. We wouldn't try the chute, never glissaded, and Whitney sure is not the time to learn. Will check back in July and see how its going, but it sounds like it may well be iffy even in late August.

Doug Sr #105288 05/01/23 04:36 PM
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That answered my question too.

Thanks.



"...this we do that others may live."

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Foxrider #105321 05/09/23 06:48 PM
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Road opened late today. Gate before the trailhead still closed. Campground and store still closed.Very limited parking



NO AREA TO TURN A LARGE RV OR TRAILER AROUND this is a deadend road also your friends will park in the road and at times turning a car around will require great skill. cars must be parked clear of the traveled road, limited parking along the side of the road .

About 50 ' up the trail you will run into a snow bank. The trail is covered .About 300' walking towards the main wall will get you to a dry section of the trail this section is south facing and will be dry for a short distance once you turn into the shaded area the snow is solid .
Another problem is most are going up the North Fork ( mountaineers route) this is not the main whitney trail. The main trail crosses the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek . The mountaineers route truns up the canyon just before crossing the NF Lone Pine creek.

The long list of what to expect /gear and conditions are changing daily . Until the trail melts out ,we have the run off and stable days of weather no major thunderstorms , very few people on the main trail will reach much above 12,000'for a day hike. Sadly many will do the go in the dark and spend hours trail finding, going later as the melt starts you will post hole waist deep or more if you break a snow bridge or tree well or rock well .
This winter hiking up to shovel we used the kitchen sink: ski ,skins , microspikes, trail runners, snow shoes, e-bike (pushing and riding) , one trip after leaving the main track it took me 20 minutes to go about 50'( from the bathroom area to the store) snow was at least 4' deep and not set up.Next trip snow shoes.

We are not seeing the melt at the upper elevation yet, we watch the waterfall and the North Fork Bridge just above the store.When the melt starts the Portal roars and late at night you can hear the rocks tumbling in the creeks, our concerns are the creeks jumping the banks which has happened with monsoons but not with run off, this year may test that.
All the stream crossing will be wider and the normal rock hops will be under water , the logs before Lone Pine Lake may float ., going into OutPost camp area will be very wet and the stream coming out of Mirror Lake will cover the trail.
Always a problem area is trailside meadow the trail is gone and a steep wall blocks going higher, this can be pasted by going left of the wall using the canyon that leads into trailcamp area. Most years this is the turn around for many day hikers Caution the slope leading down canyon goes to the waterfall above Out Post Camp DO NOT follow tracks to this area you are walking on a stream and this will exit into that waterfall.
All the basic winter mountaineering skills are needed , we will have several more snow storms , expect high winds , several will have snow blindness, many will not use enough sun screen , many will not have enough layers to stay dry , Always stay in your group , don't leave a group member behind or go ahead of the group , this is risky in the summer but can be fatal during these conditions.
This sounds like a fun hike ! Hey front load all the information you can and be ready to have a great hike even if it is only a few hundred feet up the trail.

Last edited by Doug Sr; 05/10/23 09:36 AM.
Doug Sr #105322 05/10/23 04:46 PM
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Headed up to the Portal today...

Some comments and then a bunch of photos...

MR: Most smart people seem to be staying on the SOUTH SIDE all the way up to LBSL...I wasn't...got suckered into following a crappy boot track to about 9200'...scared the **** out of myself as I attempted to cross from N to S about where the Summer 1st Creek Crossing would be...you will hear the water rushing under your feet if you are DUMB enough to make the same mistake...as Doug has stated more than a few times recently...Snow Bridges are sure to collapse soon and will result in a fall to your death by drowning...Better judgement had me retreat for a Snack and then a walk to the Wilderness Sign on the Main Trail side.

There seems to be a really good boot track on the Main Trail side...continuous snow started right after the NF Crossing...didn't see any tracks I'd want to use heading down the "Old Trail" terrain...

Overflow Lot Cleaning was completed by Heavy Equipment Operators today...









The turn at the "top" of the Portal Road.



What you'll have to deal with if you want to walk the Main Trail...I chose to climb up the Carillon Creek snowfield.



The North Fork Of Lone Pine Creek crossing.



Looking up the NF towards UBSL...2 climbers on left side and at least 5 higher up...



The Wilderness sign is exposed now...



Carillon Creek Crossing...



Trailhead sign...



The Overflow Parking Lot...

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Richard, as always, great photos and they all tell a story.

Question though, how does the Portal Family Campground look? I am arriving Friday, May 26th...I had to cancel my Wednesday and Thursday dates since Rec.Gov indicates the campground will not open to Friday.

Do you see any work being done at the campground?

Paul

paul #105324 05/10/23 05:17 PM
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You always seem to remind me of the things I was going to mention...

There is still a LOT of snow in the campgrounds...but there is also a lot of dirt showing. I couldn't predict...

There were a couple of "official looking" people looking at the campground...maybe checking out what needs to be done to get them open...?

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Warm day run off could be starting from the upper elevation both NF and waterfall showing increase flow this afternoon, still freezing in the shaded area in the portal . We are starting to make the transition to spring but not melting out due to the deep snow in the shaded areas. Richard will post some photos of his trip today I hope .

Doug Sr #105327 05/12/23 06:55 PM
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Highlight of the day...hanging a quick left at the Hostel and spending time BSing with Doug, Cayden, Ranger Chris and 2 great young men from Alabama... ( Richard didn't hear what they called him!) they made a trip to the big mountain and now have stories and pictures to hang in thier offices.
Earlier in the day (about a Noon start), I climbed up the North Fork to UBSL (really, not calling LBSL UBSL this time)...

Here are a few photos of the Family Campground and then some of the North Fork...












UBSL...Some really nice tent sites up there...no water showing...melting required...



The Headwall above UBSL...day climbers can contour left above LBSL and shave quite a distance...



Looking down to LBSL...it's melted out...


Now for some complaints...

Boot tracks all over the place...the snow is still firm enough that it didn't matter, but I'd say a week from now it's going to be hell if there isn't a DEEP boot track...

Glissade tracks wiping out what appeared to be good boot tracks...can't you move your lazy @$$ over a little bit???

Same for the dam BC Skiers...I realize your line might have to cross my boot track, but seriously, wiping out a long stretch of tracks???


I do have to admit to stopping to admire the Classic Figure 8's coming off the North Face of Thor...that was a talented pair of skiers...(I was going to take a pic on the way down, but forgot...)

Last edited by Doug Sr; 05/12/23 07:24 PM.
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Thanks Richard. It looks like the Portal Family Campgrund is clearling out nicely and will be ready for Memorial Day Weekend.

Paul

paul #105329 05/13/23 07:44 AM
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Yeah, unless there's another cold snap, the snow is a goner...Doug stated that he doesn't think the Portal area is seeing anything below about 40, so 24/7 melt...

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Quick update Major run off has started so watch the stream crossing and snow bridges breaking, snow surface is wet and slick!
Water turn on started and will be tested next Monday / Tuesday a slight chance things may open late next week but many downed trees in the Portal and FS crew working to clear the hazard trees .
Melt is clearing the lower elevation quickly but this means the trail conditions will be a wreck changing by the hour and we could see many small wet slides and rockfall coming down area of concern is from the north fork crossing up , recall the slopes of Thor and again anything past Lone Pine Lake the walls to the south can have rockfallonto the trail area.

Doug Sr #105355 05/18/23 11:45 AM
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So, this just popper up in my feed...



This was from: Premiere Buttress (5.8/A0) - May 18, 2013...with Myles.

Quite the contrast...

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In 2022, I hiked to the Summit on the Main Trail (using the Switchbacks) on May 17 and in 2021 on May 12, as well as hiked the High Sierra Trail in June 2021 encountering trivial creek crossings. This year is certainly on the other end of Bell Curve. Maybe next year we will finally have a Reversion to the Mean?

Richard, Your recent photos are REALLY HELPFUL. Thanks, Jim.

PS- In May 12,2013 (6 days before Richards May, 18, 2013 photo above), I reached the Summit, but still needed to take the Snow Chute approach.

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Some (usual) off-topic...

Quote:
Highlight of the day...hanging a quick left at the Hostel and spending time BSing with Doug, Cayden, Ranger Chris and 2 great young men from Alabama...


Part of the conversation was about how Ridgecrest isn't immune to the disturbing trend of increased petty crime...my wife's e-bike had been stolen right outside the back door of her workplace (disappeared in less than 10 minutes of being outside). Well, the good folks of Ridgecrest PD (don't defund the Police) managed to recover the bike yesterday...apparently, RC has a gang that likes to steal bikes and motorcycles... (Kern County Sheriffs department told me the same thing when one of my dirt bikes went missing).My wife offered them free food, but they were too busy to stay...


Somewhat on topic...curiosity has the best of me, so I'm heading back up to Indy to check some things out...like that new road up towards Indy Peak...

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The trail head puzzle after about 100' on the main trail you hit the avalanche debris field , many are going up the snow some are going north as the trail would go and about 150' you join the dry trail.
Getting down to the trail is a steep slope so watch out , I wouldn't do this in the dark!!!! snow clearing quickly on the lower elevation and the main runpoff has started from the upper elevation, Still winter conditions with the spring conditions mixed in . snow surface is not quite snow and not sluch but very slick so poles and good boots for the lower elevation .

Doug Sr #105373 05/23/23 03:54 AM
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Ditto on what Doug's says on not wanting to negotiate the Avi Debris in the dark...large potential for a slip that could end badly...there are "flags" marking a somewhat logical route through...

The WPS was being stocked yesterday...I was standing there chanting Open...Open...Open...(not really)

Interesting day...I did basically nothing, other than hang out...

I did meet Diana, the true Queen of Mt. Whitney...300+ ascents...

The sweeping of the upper loop is finished...downed trees may still be an issue...(maybe???)

Parking down below the upper loop is a royal PITA...

The Campground Host was moving in...

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Right now the "old trail" is much more nicer/safer. I took it down on Sunday evening because I didn't feel like trying to cross the raging creek. It's in better condition than the regular trail.

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