Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Whitney - 2023

Whoops, newbie mistake already. Switched around Outpost and Trail Camp in my message

Hey all, trying to get some information on what the hike to Trail Camp is like. I haven't seen too many condition updates and was curious if anyone had any. I know the chute is the only way further, but wanted to check on that first 6 miles.

MAIN TRAIL CONDITIONS June 21-22:

Went up the Main Trail Wed June 21 in the afternoon and camped. Ascended Mt Whitney the following day and then hiked back down to the Portal. The weather was great. The timing of the significant hiking on snow was planned so the conditions for snow travel were good.

I started out going up the Old Trail to avoid the crossing of the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek one mile up the regular trail. Then rejoined the regular trail 50 paces after the creek crossing.

For mile 1-2 the trail is clear. As usual, a grouse was making a racket protecting its turf. (No, that sound is not a bear ready to attack!)

From Mile 2 to Lone Pine lake the Trail has succumbed to many fallen trees and other debris. The Trail Crews are currently working hard to restore matters. Much appreciated!

As one approaches Lone Pine Lake, the trail progressively becomes more covered by snow. Just before the Lake, the 11 log crossing of the creek is solid.

Trying to follow the Main Trail from Lone Pine Lake to the ridge above Mirror Lake (about 1.5 miles) required about 70% travel on snow. If one is not familiar with where the trail goes here, then meticulous prior study is crucial. Also there are many natural clues indicating were the trail should be if it is snow covered. Mirror Lake is half thawed. The crossing creek at the outlet of Mirror Lake is on a snow bridge, as well as the log crossing over the outlet flow from the Spring in Bighorn Park.

The ridge above Mirror Lake is dry. From the ridge I stepped on to the snow field to my left (south) and followed it to my favorite North Shore (Consultation Lake) campsites which were snow free. I did not camp there, as there was just a speck of thawing on the north shore, and I did not want to deal with it to get water. (However, I noted a camper there the next day on my descent).

Passing Consultation Lake I hiked a few more minutes (still on the snow field) to Trail Camp. To get a secluded and snow free camp site, I walked across the frozen pond to the north shore. There was nearby rapidly flowing water at the Pond outlet. Other sources of melting water were to be found nearby with a little investigation.

The following morning at 5:45 AM I left camp and continued on snow (the only option on all directions) to the base of the Chute. The snow for the ascent of the Chute was in perfect condition for ascending (at 6:15 AM). The rock band in the middle of the Chute is now quite exposed.

From Trail Crest to the back of the Keeler Needle is on clear trail. From the Keeler Needle to Summit Plateau there is the usual early summer snow field, but it is on steroids this year. On the far right side, there is a consensus (somewhat steep) path
up it.

On the Summit there were quite a few hikers enjoying the superb views in all directions and fine weather. Many people had camped at Iceberg Lake the night before and ascended the Mountaineers Route. The Summit Register was outside the ice filled Hut and many pages remained waiting for signatures on the official paper.

I descended the same way I came up. Significantly, I started down the Chute at 1:00 PM. The snow had softened enough for a secure plunge step. But depending on location, the steepness of the Chute and quality of the snow did change, and this was very carefully noted.

Summary:

For me, the hardest part of the hike was from mile 2 to the top of the ridge above Mirror Lake. Patience, navigation skills, and daylight will be an asset there currently.

Once on the snow field above Mirror Lake, the hike is basically business as usual for the prepared hiker with fundamental snow travel skills. It could be dangerous for others.

With the weather warming later this week, the conditions on the Main Trail might deteriorate above the Mirror ridge due to snow melt: areas where snow travel is now supported, might see the snow collapse into the underlying structures.

With the warmer weather this coming week, perhaps water flow in the creeks will rise. We have a family gathering campout planned at the Whitney Portal Family Campground for the weekend and I fear I might have reserved a campsite too close to the creek. I might have survived the hike up the Mountain, but not the Family Campground. Life plays out in interesting ways, as the Mountain still makes the rules!

Jim

Thanks Jim for the detailed report as noted many miles of snow travel,for a seasoned travel a blessing but others a walk in circles findind the direction of the trail.Take note of Jim's times of the chute to avoid ice on the down climb.

All:

I just canceled an overnight permit for 3 people on July 10, 2023... It's available on the recreation.gov site now.

Just attempted to hike up the chute on 6/30.
Taylor, Jim's description of the trail is as close to step by step instructions and description as one could ask for. I actually printed it out, and wrote my own notes along the way while looking at AllTrails map in order to create a visual in my mind before heading out.
A few notes that may help you in your journey.
1. I am 61 YO, and in quite a bit better shape than the average person.
2. I weigh 178 and am 6'2", very lean legs not build to carry heavy loads.
3. I trained in elevation, with 25-30 lbs backpack, and had all of the appropriate gear (no Ice Axe, no Crampons).

My challenges.
1. I expected it to be colder, but within the first mile i was over-heating, and as such, stopped several times to change layers.
2. Over-loaded with how much i ended up carrying. Did not plan well for the water supply. Carried too much water which added to the weight. If i had known that pretty much every 2-3 miles i could filter and resupply, I would carry much less water. Plan according to how much water you need.
I carried 44 lbs while trained with 30. This came to haunt me along the way.
3. Once past the first two miles, the few switchbacks are either blocked along the way, or impassable, you will see that most people have elected to take a snow-line straight up to the next point of destination. My partner and I pretty much were the only two trying to follow the guides of the AllTrails app. most everyone was simply following foot tracks or each other.
4. Due to the warm temperatures, the snow was slushy by 10 AM on the hike. quite a challenge to navigate. Slipped and fell several times. even while moving slower than the average hiker.
5. At a couple of stream (now waterfalls and deep wide stream), I could not navigate over the stones, I wasn't comfortable that i would not slip off the rocks, so i just walked through the stream (so much for gators, and water-proof boots). I think Jim or someone else mentioned taking plastic trash-bags over your boots , and walk through the stream. I strongly recommend this as you will need it to cross a couple of the streams (especially if you don't want to go over any snow bridges). I fell in one as the bridge collapsed. Thank God it was a shallow 3 feet, and narrow (4 feet) fast moving stream.
6. We started the hike late. On the trail at 7. Paid the price with soft/slushy snow on trail. For quite a long distance, you are expose to the sun straight down on you with not much shade for protection.
7. All the extra weight and trekking in snow slowed us (me) down considerably. It too us more than 10 hours to get to Consultation Lake, and our campsite. I strongly recommend that even for an overnight trip, be on the trail between 4 and 5 AM.
8. By the time we reached camp, we were exhausted, and barely grabbed dinner. That is when my partner told me he was feeling very nauseous. Oops. He is a strong 34 YO backpacker and thought it was because he was going hard and fast. Whatever the reason, he did not recognize that he was suffering from altitude sickness. I had purchased the O2 canisters from a sporting goods store, and visited my doctor for prescription altitude sickness medication. So we spent the next couple of hours healing the ill.
went to bed at 11:30 PM, and woke up at 4 PM to the sound of other hikers already making their way to the Chute.
We considered going for it, but felt exhausted from the night before. A quick early morning conference and the decision was made to no-go the climb. But I tell you, having gone that far, makes the chute look easy. Considering that after Trail Crest you still have over a mile to go, and some more climbing, and the fact that after descending, we still had a 4 hour drive home, we decided that we better pass on this time, and fight again next. BTW, we passed by two different groups at lower elevations. One group recognized the signs, headache, nausea, and decided to stop and camp where they were. the other group through they were feeling light headed since they hadn't had breakfast. So be ware, altitude sickness does not announce itself, you or a team member have to recognize the symptoms and put your foot down with regard to what to do next.
9. Descending the next morning.
We broke the distance into sections, so it was well managed from an emotional and mental aspect.
Had to traverse mostly through snow:
- We had micro-spikes, and DEFINITELY could have used CRAMPONS! seriously consider spending the money and get them. If your boots aren't made to accommodate them, just zip tie them onto your boots. Whatever you need to do!
- the hike down was quite a bit more tactical than i expected as every 2-3 steps one or the other foot would slide in any direction. Slipped and tumbled many times.

Summary:
Start Early.
Manager Amount of weight and water you carry.
have altitude sickness, and first aid kit handy.
Do the hike in 3 days rather than 2 if you can. Hike to camp; rest the next day. Summit and descend on day-3.
Carry micro-spikes and crampons if possible. You may need the crampons more than the micro-spikes.
If you plan to purchase a sattlelite communication and SOS device, I would recommend the higher end model as they are easier to setup and operate. Also, purchase it early and spend time setting it up. I had the Garmin InReach Mini-2; quite tedious to setup and operate. Ended up not using it at all.
I will definitely do the hike again, but only during no snow years.

Good luck to everyone who is going up in the next few days and weeks.

Greetings! Does anyone have some high quality photos of Arc Pass in the last week or so? Thanks

Great tips Raz, everyday we get the "I'm going to trailcamp "how long will it take?" Many are still thinking the trail is clear to trailcamp like summer and the chute is the only area of snow, , The snow is clearing now to just about outpost camp that is offset by more water and muddy areas, many still missing the trail above outpost camp area. A simple equation is do you want to carry the weight on the snow covered trail sleep at 12,000 feet hope the wind is calm and stress your first day getting to trailcamp? If then why not camp at the JMT junction camp that would put you a short distance from the summit? If you want to cut the distance down the second day?
My bias is never stay at trailcamp the first day, make the first day hike to the lower elevation camp, use this as a rest day get somewhat adjusted to the elevation , carry a light day pack to the summit and sleep again at the lower camp. Hulda Crooks did this at the age of 91 but came down to the portal on the second day not staying the extra night.

On the creek crossings rock hopping is a risk of a fall . either take off your boots or just get wet . Your feet are going to get wet at some point , so bring extra socks. Wool works great and a thin liner sock helps.
Some not using enough sunblock or glasses, the snow adds to the exposure , long pants ,long sleeve upper also helps plus a head cover of some type. Bugs a lot of bugs!
I always hear the afternoon thunderstorms get off the summit by...
Have we had any afternoon thunder storm ? If you see clouds building watch the rate of cover and the direction of the clouds moving if any ,don't walk into a storm!
A great couple of days watching records being set on the Badwater race , First a lady won the race ,and set a second place fastest time, next a young lady 18 YO finished the race and on the other end of the clock a 70 YO lady finished.
The winning runner was doing a 10 minute mile pace that would put her time for a Whitney RT of just under 4 hours. The race ends at the Portal.

Thanks so much guys for all the information. I have a day use permit for July 18. A couple of questions. I do not know how to use an ice ax, but I have used crampons. If I am going up the switchbacks is there a path to follow? Can I get to the summit and back in one day? If not I will be in Yosemite September 16-19 is there anyone who has an extra pass? I respect your opinions so thanks in advance for your advice.

Heading up next Wednesday (7/19) This will be my 4th time up there; 1 one 2day trip - stayed at Trail Camp (first time in 2016) and then 2 solo 1 day(overnight) trips in 2021 and last year. Made the 1 day trips up and back in 18 hrs. Thinking not bad for a guy that is almost 60.

I did have some snow on those trips; however, nothing like what I am seeing from the great pics people have been posting this past 2 weeks.

My question is: in reference to Mr. Doug Sr's earlier quote, "the switchbacks are now available" Can a person go up the Chute and then come back down the switchbacks right now? Or, the reverse, go up the switchbacks and come down (Glissade) the Chute. Taking into account the weather and rate of melt - would either of these 2 options be possible?

Target time to be at Trail Camp is 4:00 AM and start ascent by 4:30/4:45.

Also, 100% agree with Doug Sr. on Outpost vs. Trail camp. Already have a group trip planned for next year and we will be staying at Outpost this time instead of Trail camp.

Any updates and answers to the above are greatly appreciated. Looking forward to getting back up there again next week!

The switchback are clearing now the lower section and the top is starting to show middle section will be snow covered for a while. Many years people will go up the old trail route and traverse above the cable area,comes in about switchback 60,then switchback to trailcrest.
Another often overlooked route is the boulder
field near the northly area of the chute,these boulders are showing now and can cut about half the snow climb out.
Timing now is the key, time to get on the snow and back down before it gets hard.
Now onto the glissading thing ,as the area at the bottom and middle of the chute rocks will start surfacing ,a fall now or loss of control could be fatal.A long snow slide can beat you up but hitting the rocks never turn out well.We expect the next 5-7 day to be very hot 107 in town ip+ at the Portal.Streams will be a concern ,wet slides near the toe of any area that runs out maybe near the trail ,Above Mirror lake to trailcrest.

Thank you Doug for all that information, those are great suggestions.

Looking at the switchbacks from Image; the end of the cables at #46, yes? Could I enter the switchbacks from there?
Also, where would I start to come in like you mentioned about the old trail route and get up to around #60 switchback? And, is it possible to go halfway up the Chute and come in at 90? Or, would this be a waste?

Thank you again for the advice on the Glissade, might not be a great idea by next week depending on the melt.

MAIN TRAIL CONDITIONS JULY 9:

Went up the Main Trail yesterday. Enjoyed great weather. Unfortunately, got back too late for dinner at the Portal Store.

Started out on the Old Trail (from the back of the Portal Pond) to avoid crossing the North Fork Creek.

Continuing on to Lone Pine Lake, the Trail is now basically clear of lingering snow patches and due to the work of the Trail Crew.

The log crossing just before Lone Pine Lake is enduring the increased flow in the creek. Two logs in the center of the stream are somewhat separated and hiking poles are helpful here.

On entering the Mt Whitney Zone (just past Lone Pine Lake) the trail is obscured by patches of snow for a couple hundred yards. Knowing where the trail is located and heads (by prior study of a map) is helpful.

Crossing Bighorn Park will likely result in shoes getting wet.

The Trail from the fine camping sites in Outpost Camp to Mirror Lake still has some patches of snow.

Patches of snow from Mirror Lake to the ridge above Mirror Lake also remain and obscure the Trail. Temporarily losing the Trail there should be expected.

From the ridge above Mirror Lake to Trail Crest, the Main Trail is left and hiking is still on a snow field. Snow quality remains adequate.

From a distance, it could be seen that Trailside Meadow and some of the trail in that area is clear now. While hiking there on the Trail might seem inviting, the Trail soon cross a steep angle area of snow (which will collapse later in the summer.

In the Snow Chute leading up to Trail Crest, the rock band is increasingly exposed.

The Trail is dry from Trail Crest to the Summit Snow Field starting behind the Keeler Needle.

Note: No hikers were seen on the switchbacks.

Jim

Thanks for the update, any good gouge on how the western approach looks, ie coming up from Crabtree.2 weeks till we start, onion valley heading south, I’m assuming there is still a good amount of snow above 10k, going to bring crampons, probably ice axes and micro spikes to cover all our bases, thanks

Rhody,

Since I was last looking west from the Mt Whitney summit on June 22 this year, the western approach appears much more hospitable. Timberline Lake has completely thawed and Guitar Lake is getting there. From Timberline Lake to where the Trail starts switchbacking up the westside, there are now many large areas that are free of snow. For the final several hundred yards before the intersection with the Whitney Trail, the JMT/HST is dry, as well as the campsites just below the Junction.

Assuming the weather is decent, it appears you have an exciting and doable trip planned. However, this year the unusual late July conditions might require using the brain (reading the terrain, navigation, frequent decision making, contingency planning...) more than the feet!

I've done this hike in early July after a big snow winter (but in milder conditions than this year) and found the following helpful:

While descending from Kearsarge Pass, avoid the bottom of the Kearsarge Lakes drainage above Bullfrog Lake. It might be flooded.

To avoid a potential challenging creek crossing on the approach to Vidette Meadow on the JMT, descend cross country from the outlet of Bullfrog Lake, always staying left of (but not far from) the creek. This descent lands right on the Vidette bear box on the JMT.

Take time of day into consideration when going over Kearsarge, Forester, Trail Crest to hike on the most favorable snow

After descending Forester, wrap around Diamond Mesa heading in the direction of Shepherd Pass to cross Tyndall Creek high. This tactic avoids a problematic Tyndall Creek/JMT crossing. It involves cross country travel over very easy terrain.

After your hike, please post a few tips/suggestions/warnings for those of us doing this hike later this Summer.

Jim

Thanks for the update, going to be interesting either way. Have done this basic trip numerous times over the years but of course this year was a record breaker. Just found out they cnxed our campground reservation at onion valley for the 24th, suppose to now finally open on the 25th. I got a good backup plan just in case but hopefully can get my daughter to the top of Whitney on this trip, been pumping her up about the burgers at the portal store so she is ready,lol

I was able to secure a last minute day permit for July 20th and beyond excited to get out on the Whitney Trail for the first time. Will be hiking solo and don't feel I am experienced enough to tackle the chute and glissade on my own, so my questions are:

1) With the heat wave coming through this week, will the switchbacks be clear enough to try and tackle the peak in one day? I'm 40 yo, very fit/active male and will have been living at 6000' elevation for the proceeding two weeks

2) If not, how far up the trail will I be able to get without having to leverage crampons and an ice ax and how long will that part of the hike take? Happy leaving as early as needed to do the hike in one day, but if I won't be able to summit, would love to do as much of the hike in daylight as possible.

I'm totally OK with not being able to summit this trip, given its my first into the Whitney Wilderness and very much of the headspace of being OK to turn around at any point - just trying to adequately plan my departure time for this trip

We are talking with people that have screened all the sources and are hearing condition reports that are somewhat confusing , my thoughts are the reporting party based on the experience level they have are reporting on the point the trail/ area was a bit much for them and turn around , next people with years of snow travel and winter mountaineering see the area as in the transition phase some snow, some dry trail and a little wet at the stream crossing but walk through the water like a non event ,also the gear they have match the conditions no more no less ,if hard leather boots are needed for the crampons they have mountaineering boots. No not the 5 lb plastic ice climbing boots but winter boots with a soild shank , toe stiff enough to kick steps in and heel plunge on the way down.

We ask a few question when we talk to people , where do you live? do you Ski, been over 12000' feet before , about how long do you think it will take to reach the summit? How long to get down? Sun up is ? after the sun moves over the ridge how quick will the chute ice up? We fit these types of questions in while we are talking and answering questions . Many may be ready for trailcamp area but not up the chute and they understand turning around.
The next few weeks will see a transitiin from the chute to the trail and we will be near normal conditions still ice in the cable area, a short section just before trailcrest and the summit.

On the water issue notice that the normal water sources are running now and if you carry a bottle (wide mouth )if you add snow to about a half of bottle you will have water the entire trail. Carry the bottle in you jacket next to your body will help melt the snow.

Read the great reports from Jim and others for the fine points of the trail Thanks Be safe and the summit is the point you head back down>

Hi All!

I have a permit to enter on 7/23 to do the JMT, solo. I've been following the threads and updates and am really appreciative to all those who take the time to share their experiences.

Like the gentleman who posted about heading up on 7/20, I'm highly curious regarding the likelihood of the switchbacks being usable, though understand it is terrifically difficult to anticipate what conditions will be like a week+ away.

I did the JMT last year (in 15 days) and understand this year is likely to take a bit longer with the *SNOW* conditions. (Planning on taking microspikes, collapsible hiking poles (with snow baskets) and an ice axe.

A bit anxious about the South Fork Bridge area (just prior to Muir Trail Ranch resupply). Think -- on Alltrails, I saw that it may be possible to hike up either 1.5 or 3 miles from the bridge to cross. If anyone has info or updates would be very appreciative to hear. I'm reasonably experienced, but only on the trails.

FYI - good shape, 60 (soon to be 61 y/o), if anyone is headed up on or around July 23rd, please let me know @ konradmoore@yahoo.com. Good luck to everyone!!