Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Shepard's Pass / Mt Tyndall conditions

I'm doing Mt Tyndall by the NW Ridge over the Memorial Day weekend. Does anyone have any information on recent trail conditions?

Here is a <a href="http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_photos/barnard_1/reg/DSC00055.jpg">picture</a> taken from Barnard posted at another site taken the weekend of 5/8.

I was up at Anvil Camp May 14-16. Went to the top of Tyndall via the NW Ridge. The approach hike as well as above Shepard's Pass is pretty remote and quiet. Snow begins above Anvil Camp. Good climb overall.

Im having a hard time with a related question that I still need to consult my favorite bookstore on. The question is: does Sheperd's Pass take between Tyndall and Williamson only? Is there a trail to the summit of these mtns or do you need to rock climb? The ranger's station says its all climbing. Whats up?

Mt. Tyndal is stated as a class 2/3 but Mt. Williamson is at least moderate class 3 by the easiest route. No trail to either peak.

How is Sheperd's Pass? Is it technical? Isnt it around 26 miles?

As Andrew said, there is no trail to the summit of either mountain. The Shepherd pass trail will take you as far as the pass . . . after that it's cross-country to Tyndall and Williamson.

When you get to Shepherd pass, Tyndall is staring you in the face. Depending on the route you choose, it is readily apparent how get to the summit.

Williamson requires moderate route-finding skills to traverse the Williamson bowl and find the start of the West Face route. The crux of the route is a 100 ft. class 3 portion. Once you top this portion it's quick jaunt to the summit. The class 3 portion is not really that exposed, and depending on your comfort level climbing it shouldn't be a problem. Downclimbing it is probably more difficult, and I've heard that some rappel down. Personally, the exposure wasn't that bad, there were plenty of solid holds, and it was faster and easy to downclimb rather that set up a rappel. Beside, we didn't bring the equipment to set up a rappel, so the point was moot.

To answer your latest question, Shepherd pass is not technical (at least when the snow can be avoided). It is a class 1-2 walkup. It's about 25 or so miles round trip from Shepherd pass trailhead to Williamson.

TN

G4P,

Don't know what the conditions are, but this is from 2 yrs ago, and shows what the hike to Shepard Pass is like.

http://community.webshots.com/album/49723235POucmp

We'll be there early July

Regarding Brian's question about Shepard Pass and Mt Tyndal, I made two trips last year. The first was over the Memorial Weekend, and I had summit interuptus. The second was a grudge trip, and I summited Tyndal via the East Face. Both were, pardon the Arnoldism, FANTASTIC, though for totally different reasons.

These stories and pictures are posted at www.geocities.com/oldclimberstavern

I'd take an ice axe, for sure, and maybe crampons, depending how much you want the peaks. Conditions vary greatly, from day to day. You may need an axe for getting up to Shepard Pass; many times there is a snow field covering the trail. I used crampons earlier in the year.

BTW, the class 3 section up the West Face chute route on Big Willie is only about 40 feet. One book recommends taking a rope, but I wouldn't, again. Just climb with care, or if you are a beginner, you should try easier peaks till you are good with class 3. Some 10,000' gain round trip to carry a seven pound 150m 11mm rope, if that's all you have.

And if you do do this, I'd love to see photos posted. I did both peaks slightly off-season, since I thought them too easy, then, in mid-summer.

In case anyone is interested, we made the summit on Saturday. I will say that it was an adventure. I think we got a little off route on the NW Ridge. I guess your not supposed to stay on top of the ridge for the class 2 route, but in the chute to the right of the ridge. Problem is that this route is covered in snow right now. So, I think we took the harder, time consuming route up the ridge. I think our rear ends were hanging out over a lot of exposure we didn't have to be around. After a late summit, we glissaded (controlled death slide) down the North Rib. First time I actually had to self arrest when it counted. Still plenty of snow on Shepard's Pass. Crampons definitely needed for the Pass and if you want to go up the correct “easy” route of Tyndall. I’d add pictures if I knew how. 5 14er’s down, 10 to go.