Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Winter snow gear?

Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:28 am Post subject: Winter Mountaineering gear

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Having headed up to the Whitney area many times in May, I always have problems staying dry, the secret for Winter Mountaineering. It seems to be a weight and gear issue, being in the snow for multiple days.

For those of you who go in the winter, what kind of gear does it take.

Plastic boots? Don't have yet. My water proof leather gortex boots eventually get wet...after 6-8 hours in the snow.

Gaitors? Bought some new ones this year.

Snow shoes? Don't have

Crampons/ Ice axe? Have those

Gloves? Mine always get wet after a while. Do you take multiple pairs?

Nice tent? Would seem obvious

Zero degree bag? Have that.

Water proof pants? I bought a ski bib this year...I haven't really tried it out yet.

I guess I want to go spend a few days up in the snow and go as far as I can get....if I could work out the staying dry isssue. Any ideas?

Kash, the plastic boots make a real difference. I've not found a reasonable way to make leather boots remain waterproof. Got to have good gaiters. I use two pairs of ski gloves, a pair of glove liners, and a "outer mitt" of a waterproof material.

In terms of a tent, I'd advocate for two, a REI half dome plus-style, with two side doors, two vestebules, and you don't have to climb over each other to get in and out.

The bags with the DWR cover help, but liberal spraying with Scotchguard helps. I find a lot of the moisture comes from perspiration, so having good venting systems in the clothing helps, and being quick to shed a layer, as one heats up, is critical.

It seems like the most difficult thing is drying things out, so it is best not to have them wet to start with.

plastic boots are best for keeping water out, though they are very stiff for long hikes like whitney. Sportiva also makes some good non-plastic expedition boots that you might want to check out.

I'm with Ken: bring some goretex overmits to keep your gloves dry and/or bring an extra pair of gloves. Note that down loses most of its insulating properties when wet, so synthetics are better for gloves (and maybe sleeping bag).

Goretex pants are a good idea, make sure they are seam sealed. Ski bib, if insulated, is probably too warm to climb in.

Make sure that you take a real 4 season tent (heavier, but stronger for higher winds). The Bibler is pricey, but very good. If you end up hunkered down for a few days in a storm, you'll appreciate it.

Bring extra food and fuel, since you can get trapped in white-outs. Don't wear anything cotton and bring layers since you will get warm when climbing and cold when stopped.

Try buying Mountainering Freedom Of The Hills, everything you will need to know.

Although I am a huge fan of F.O.T.H., It is very general, as it would have to be.

Sierra specific weather, for example is vastly different than Cascades, or Rockies. For example, I think a three season tent, if the right design, can work just fine in the Sierra Winter. But one has to know what they are doing.
There are always trade-offs, and in the winter, I think one has to be more aware of where the margins lie.

I do think that FOTH is a pre-requisite for learning about those margins, and where to start.

I got my Mountain Gear Winter catalog today (www.mountaingear.com). I thought of your question as I looked through the gear options. For example, under "Mountaineering footwear" they list a Vasque ice 9000 boot on sale for $395.00 (regular $495.00) That is a lot more then the $125 I spent on my waterproof leather boots. It reminds me of the friend who showed me his new $750 Mountaineering boots he had imported from Italy....just in time for a winter ascent in Alaska. They sure were nice.

Their Alti Mitts are $179.00, much more then the $45 I spent for my winter ski gloves. They also have theta sk pants (ski bibs) for $375.00. That is much more then the $75 I spent for my ski bibs.

A four season tent comes in at $579.00, much more then the $75 tent I bought last year.

The point is that true "mountaineering gear" sometimes is much more expensive then what we might pick up for a day on the ski slopes. Consequently one might have the illusion that one is better protected then he thinks. I would suspect that one who wears clothes costing $1000 would stay much dryer then one who paid a few hundred dollars.

If you want to do a winter ascent, be prepared and careful with your gear selection. It is really a huge jump to get into really nice gear. Maybe one doesn't need top of the line clothes for the Sierras, but it certainly helps to pay enough to get good quality stuff.

Hey Kent, how has it been?

Maybe your question is about going in the heart of the winter, a time you have yet avoided. That would require better gear for sure and you would have to start the walk way down at the bottom of the switchbacks where the road is closed. That would add hours to the experience, hiking miles before you even get to the portal.

Your trips up to the snow in April and May are starting to sound better all the time to me. The weather is better, you can park at the portal and you get the snow without the serious avalanch danger. Remember our trip to Thor Peak in May in a heavy snow year, camping on five feet of snow at Lower Boy Scout Lake. That was the best

Best wishes to you and keep hiking