Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board March 13th MR photos

I took a few <a href="http://file.internetonastick.net/wmr2005/">pictures</a> on my first winter ascent of the MR. It was a beautiful and challenging experience. Much thanks to everyone here who provides updated conditions and photos and to those volunteers and government employees that protect such a magnificent place!


Me in the notch. =)

Wow,
Those photos are great. Thanks for providing such a detailed and beautiful view of climbing Mt Whitney in winter conditions. Must have been like heaven up there!

You maniac, glissading with your crampons on! Exactly as I would have done...

Good show, Matt! Thanks for sharing. Well done.

Awesome photos! Any you filmed your glissade down?! Brilliant! Nicely done!

Matthew D., thanks for the experience. We made a good summit team.

What's next dude!?

Great photo's! Thanks for sharing the experience of the video...makes me want to leave work right now and do it myself

Congratulations! Nice set of photos. (Lose the crampons for the glissade next time. Too many people get hurt that way.) Fill us in on whether this whets your appetite for more winter climbing.

I'm jealous. This will be the first time in a number of years that I haven't been up Whitney during the winter.

It was interesting to see how the landscape has changed since the big storms in early January.

It was also sad reading that another climber has died on Whitney.

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<a href="http://piotrowski.smugmug.com">Smugmug Photo Albums</a>

I'm really glad we summited and I'd love to do it again some time since you asked. I think I'd like to try to get in better shape and try out some alpine touring skis. From the notch down, I was kicking myself for being on foot. After kili, I have loose plans to do more of the seven summits in the next few years so I wanted to get a good feel for snow travel and camping. Of course, I'd be happily climb in the Sierra Nevadas the rest of my life.

As for glissading on crampons; yeah, I'm pretty good at boot skiing normally but while holding on to my camera, I was on my butt, ice axe under the arm pit and the other hand used to dig it in. That alone wouldn't have been enough braking power so I kept them on. While I'm young and stupid, I'll value my camera over my knees. j/k, I was careful, it was a blast!

Some of you may have noticed in another thread, the guy we passed going up to the notch and met again coming down to it didn't make it out. They found his body at the bottom of the chutes on the north face. It is a little surreal knowing this guy left this world just after we were talking to him. I suppose if he is anything like you and me, he was killed doing what he loved and he is probably okay with that wherever he is.

Matt,
I went up the MR on March 6th. I was the first one up to the notch and ended up going up the notch solo. I felt that getting over the first section of rock was particularly tricky this year. I would bet that that is where the accident occurred. The wind was fierce 50-60mph and bitter cold when I got to the top and I immediately turned around and went back down. Coming down over the rocks again was tricky. It looks like you went up and down along the West wall of rocks... mostly in the rocks...I went straight up the middle...just a question but which way do you think is easier?? I've done that route the last 3 winters and every year is different....

Nice Pics

kellyts, we started on the west side of the chute closest to the notch since it is easiest to get in there and less exposed. You're right, scrambing over that first section of rocks is always the bad spot; whether it be iced over in the summer or trying to get over the rocks on crampons in winter, a slip and roll would probably send you to the bottom. After that first section, we crossed the chute to the east side and that spine of rocks. There were some good post holes in the snow up that side so we used them, otherwise I probably would have gone up the middle and then off to one side of the cornis like you did.

We probably have you to thank for some of the post holes up to the notch. Glad you made it safe in the wind. We couldn't have asked for more perfect weather for the few hours we were up there. It was cold in the shade and hot in the sun and the clouds and snow didn't set in till we were off the summit. I'd like to hear from the party we saw on the summit. Coming down in a white out must have been hairy.

guest / Member # 2831
My comment of "wft" has nothing to do with Richard, it was critical of the other group we saw on the summit. We talked to Richard several times on climb so within seconds of reading the SAR report, I wrote an emotional response, quickly recounting our time-line to see if this might have been the same guy and if so, under what circumstances this tragedy occurred and mentioning another group on the summit might have run in to him because they remained on the summit too long seemed pertinent at the time. Out of respect for his friends and family and now knowing he was, in fact, the one who fell there is no reason to continue discussion of this other groups' situation on the summit on the other thread.
That being said, in this thread, I'll share with you what my critical explicative "wtf" intended. This group on the summit let one mistake compound in to several mistakes.

1. They didn't manage their water for the summit at all if they had to cook snow up there. Reasoning; my hiking partner carried 1 liter for LBSL, I carried 2 to Iceberg and 1 from there. Every time you drink a quarter liter or so, fill the bottle snow. Your bottle(s) should never be empty since the snow melts quickly.

2. Because they managed water poorly, they extended their exposure on the summit. They were using a slow start, white gas stove and setting up shop right on the summit next to the lightening rods.

3. The weather was clearly making a turn for the worse as we left the summit. It was clear the clouds would be on the summit within a half-hour and white it out. It was time to head down, at least to the notch; water or not. This group remained.

This is why I said "wtf". Granted, this group made it out safely so it may not seem like a big deal on such a low peak but minimizing exposure on a summit and adequate preparation are incredibly important to winter climbing.

If the other group is reading this, I'm simply pointing out mistakes and making no judgment of you outside of this climb. You are welcome to respond to me in public or private if you feel my account is inaccurate or unjust.

Matthew..thanks so much for sharing the photos and trip report..awesome work! Man..it was reports like yours that put the bug into me to start winter mountaineering.

Question..I hope it's not inappropriate in light of what happened to the solo climber. Did he die from injuries sustained in the fall or did he die of exposure due to immobility after the fall? The reason I ask is that I'm weighing the risks of solo winter (or heck..even summer) mountaineering. Obviously it is probably much safer to go with a partner..but sometimes that just isn't possible to line up. As a person who understands that life and adventure is a risk and mitigating those risks within reason is a good idea..I'm not dead set against going solo. I was just wondering what you had heard?

Thanks again for sharing the photos...

BeachAV8R

Matt,
Thanks for the reply. I wanted another perspective on the route..I totally agree that the first set of rocks is tricky. I've gone up 7 different winters on both the MR and main trail...every year is different and awesome. Going over those rocks solo this year really bothered me..it was so cold my Nalgene bottle inside my pack flash froze!!...must be getting older...last year I had weather like you and it is absolutely amazing on the top...congrats on a great hike..

Not sure who knows, but this same thing happened in early spring of 97. A party of two from Arizona split up while assending the MR shute. My buddy John and two others spent half the night looking for him. He also ended up at the bottom of the North Face. It seems if something bad is going to happen, it happens up their. This post is to let everyone know that this is something that happens once in a while. So hopefully those who read about this incident will take extra percautions during this part of the route. Good Luck to all!

Your (self-stated) first winter ascent of such a peak, yet you claim such a condescending, critical position. It seems you should also be as highly critical of your own behavior, namely, glissading with crampons - dangerous and extremely poor technique! Let's hope your prospective climbing partners are willing to accept the potential consequences - perhaps they'll drag a sled along for your benefit. Ah, yes, and it is general knowledge that white gas stoves are the most reliable at altitude and low temperature - "slow start?" - perhaps you're spoiled by the convenience of microwave cooking at home and the self igniting gas range. And, really, a "french" party ascended to the summit ahead of yours? Were those their names in the register, proceeding yours? Did you stop to think, even for a moment, that those parties in advance of your own might have set some solid steps from which you gained great benefit? How do you know that party was melting snow for water? Perhaps they enjoyed a warm beverage whilst you stomped about the summit for too long with cold feet. It seems they were in no more imminent danger than yourselves - after all, didn't you say they had summited before you, and thus, you would have been yet ascending with the signs of worsening weather and pressed on with summit fever in any case? One would hope that such close exposure to the incident you allude will provoke some healthy introspection and sensitivity to the situation about you. Fare well and climb safe!!!!!

guest
There's no need for spiteful posturing. I'm not going to debate this at length on a message board. I'm sorry you feel that I was making a personal attack and had to lash out back. Let me clear a few things up. This was my first winter summit of Whitney. I have quite a bit of experience with mountaineering in general, in the snow and other higher altitude peaks but I realize I'm far from expert, you're clearly safe so I could be completely wrong; my comments are simply the observations of my own and my other climbing friends.
I realize glissading in crampons is normally a terrible idea, I never recommended it. I did it for a short distance for a lark on camera in very soft snow. I'm flexible enough to put my foot behind my head insert head in ass joke here and never locked my knees so I wasn't too concerned about snags and anyone else's responsibility to get me out if I had one.
Not everyone signs the register so I'm not sure why you brought that up. This is the first time in many summits on Whitney that I've signed it. Also, I never denied that other people post holed ahead of us, in fact, I've said it was very useful and that going up that section in the snow is faster and easier than it is on the summer scree but again that is irrelevant to my comments on preparation and need for water. I never had cold feet on the summit, I had quiet warm feet thank you. =) We were up and back below iceberg lake well before the summit whited out so I'd say we judged the weather on our ascent pretty darn well. I'm also trying to figure out your constructive "spoiled by microwave cooking" comment. I've used just about every fuel and type of stove known to man on long and short hauls. On short hauls, nothing has ever beat i***utane on weight, simplicity and reliability. Insulated i***utane stoves can boil two cups of ice in two minutes at freezing temps. It just costs a little more. It takes my Whisperlight a solid 5 minutes to get set up, primed and running smoothly not counting water boil time and tear down time. Stove discussion is a completely minor point anyway but I figured I'd indulge your "general knowledge" comment.
Despite of whatever you think of me at this point, I appreciate your concern. Feel free to email if you want to discuss further.

BeachAV8R,
I don't know what the final prognosis was. You might try emailing the Inyo SAR and ask what they found Wednesday. As for weighing the risks of solo climbing, this incident was obviously the extreme. Would a partner have been able to get out in time to reach search and rescue or down climb the north face without ropes? Probably not. I solo rock climb and made a solo January attempt on Whitney. I think most people's biggest risk factor is family. I have no wife or children to factor right now so I'm prone to all sorts of bad decisions according to my girlfriend and mom but I've never felt my life was in danger. When Marty Hoey died on Everest, her instructions to her friends was to have a party because she died doing what she loved. I like that idea. =)

Please show respect for each other and take the message by tkid serious,
The Mountaineers route is not to be taken as an easy class 3 way up, or is the main trail when the area is covered with snow and ice , one slip may send one a very long way and as the terrain changes vertical drops are possible. Thank You Doug

Thanks for the reply Matthew...

Guest - You bring up good points and your argument (or counter-points) would be much more constructive if you dropped the cynical attidue and sarcasm. Just a suggestion...

This incident..like all other tragedies in the mountains, or in kayaks, or wherever, is a great opportunity to learn and be educated not only by things people did wrong..but things they did right. As a pilot I know much of me and my fellow pilots knowledge comes from "hangar flying"...retelling our horrible stories that we were lucky enough to survive. A bit of humility and honest assessment of what we screwed up is the key to getting good information out to my buddies (not to mention it can make for a funny story..). The more viewpoints we have of this incident from the more angles (all with differing perceptions) can be beneficial to everyone.

I know one thing..I have even more respect for that area above the Notch that ever before. I only wish I had laid my own eyes upon it when we were out there last year!

Regards..

BeachAV8R