Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Is it madness? One-day solo in April

All you Whitney climbers, I need your advice:

I'm thinking about doing Whitney later this month (between 18 - 22, depending on the weather).
I guess best is to try to drive up the road to the Portal as far as it is open and then get on by foot from there (hope the road is pretty free or it will be a VERY long day). I've got mountaineering experience in general, but I don't know the Whitney area. Could you answer me some questions:

- which route do you think is faster and better - normal route or MR - both for ascent and descent?
- how hard exactly is the MR (what's the most difficult part like)?
- what are your experiences or estimates about the time necessary for this?
- is there a chance to rent an ice axe and snow shoes somewhere (got crampons but no axe with me due to luggage restrictions on my flight)?
- any recommendations about non-camping accomodation (got not tent, same reason as above)are highly welcome!

I'd be glad if you could help me with this! Gina

The Portal Road was blocked after the first switchback on Thurday. It took me about an hour to walk up to the Portal Store with no gear.

In "winter" conditions, the MR is definitely faster due to the shorter distance. It requires more technical skill.

Conditions vary. Several recent posts have stated that the last section above the Notch is more difficult than in recent years. I met a couple of skiers on Thursday who stated that the traverse around to the summit plateau was "not that bad."

If you don't have prior acclimitization, a one-day in current conditions would be very difficult. I think I recall that the skiers made it up in six hours. Obviously, less for them to ski down.

You could probably rent equipment at Eastside Sports in Bishop.

There are plenty of motels in Lone Pine.

The most difficult technical climbing in the early spring will likely be the route from Iceberg Lake to the summit. There will probably be risk of avalanch and rockfall (helmet is a good idea) in the chute above Iceberg. From the notch at the top of that chute you could either go directly up to the summit, which will probably be mixed climbing in snow, possibly a little ice, and rock (very cold rock, so bring gloves) or traverse across. The traverse is exposed, so you would only want to tackle it if you are confident in your abilities with crampons and ice axe. You might also want to bring pickets for some pro. This traverse could also be subject to avalanching depending on conditions.

It is definitely climbable if you know what you are doing.

Gina,

let me know if you want company, I've got a tent and everything else and I'm ready to go up again. PM me or email me. I'm from L.A.

To put it short that would be one hell of a climb if you were snowshoeing all the way. I would only do it if I were in tip top shape and aclimitized. Climbing approx 7000ft in most likely soft winter conditions is no sloutch of a climb.
Eric J Lee

Thanks all you guys for your advice! I'm still up for it and hope the weather likes me. I'll take in all the good suggestions I read on this forum, especially about altitude etc. I'll try to get a day trip above 11,000 before going for the real trip and drink plenty!

Gina,

The Mountaineer's Route can certainly be accomplished in one day, especially in good conditions and if you're already familiar with the route. I have photo documentation of the whole route, which I could e-mail to you if you'd like (rob.spinosa@flagstar.com).

In any case, in May of 2000 I arrived at the Portal on a Saturday morning, hiked up to Lower Boy Scout Lake and stashed some food and water there. I hiked back down and slept at the Portal that night. On Sunday, I got an early start, and was up and down in under 9 hours. I had done the MR several times before that, and knew what I was getting into. I traveled very light. The crux is definitely the short section after the notch and right before the summit. Mark your exit onto the summit plateau with a wand or other gear.

Good luck and be safe. On a nice day, there is nothing like being up there with the Lower 48 at your feet....

Rob