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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Chiming in from Idaho. I have recieved my permit to climb the Main Whitney Trail on Memorial Day weekend. There will be 4 of us in the group. Are crampons a necessity on that portion of the trail or would snowshoes suffice? This will be everyones first time climbing this mountain, and outside of viewing the topo, we don't know very much about the terrain and conditions we will encounter, as of yet. Granted, we have plenty of winter mountaineering experience out here in this portion of the rockies, but I would like to get as much information as possible about the trek up the main trail at this time of year. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Also, we might have one of the 4 slots available, if anyone is interested in climbing the mountain on Memorial day.

Joined: Apr 2005
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The 99 Switchbacks above Trail Camp will in all likelihood have snow. It has been a heavy year. That slope is high and north facing. Bring crampons and an ice axe... and learn how to use them! There have been several injuries and deaths over the years from people falling on that slope and not knowing how to stop. Or, they think they can glissade. If you decide to glissade (which I wouldn't recommend) at least make sure you take your crampons off before doing so.

There is about 8-10 feet of snow at Iceberg Lake right now and that is similar in elevation to Trail Camp. It is melting fast but I'm sure you'll have snow there.

Be safe and have fun!

Joined: Jul 2003
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Joined: Jul 2003
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Here is a link to a report from last year in May: <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001930"> May 18,2004 Report</A>. If you go to the previously posted web page with the <A href="http://cdec.water.ca.gov/cgi-progs/current/PLOT_SWC">water content</A> of the snow you can see that lower mountains have over 50% more snow than last year. A recent thread notes how there is a good chance for ice even in July: <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002927">Switchbacks and ice</A>.

Joined: Dec 2002
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Snowshoes aren't going to help you on the side hill stuff you will see in various areas, nor on any hard ice areas.

You most definitely will need crampons and ice axe.

Joined: Apr 2005
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Thanks for the advice. What is the slope angle of the chute above Trail Camp? Would I expect the entire chute to be covered in ice, or would it get isothermic later on in the day when we descend? Definitely descending a chute in ice is not my idea of fun.

I will definitely take my points and have the ice axe.

Joined: Apr 2005
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Joined: Apr 2005
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The slope angle will vary between 25 and 45 degrees. To give you an idea of how this translates into the "real" world figure that intermediate ski slopes are usually up to around 25 degrees, while advanced runs can get up to 45 degrees. Some people think that 45 degrees doesn't sound that steep but in reality people regularly over-estimate the angle of slopes. 45 degrees is steep.

The snow will range from firm to somewhat soft. There might be some icy spots but firm snow is more likely what you'll see in the morning.

Also, it isn't really a chute. It is a big open slope.

Joined: Jul 2003
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Joined: Jul 2003
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You may want to look at Bob R's photo gallery from May 31, 2004. He has a link to it on an adjoining thread (scroll down): <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002913">Windows</A>. Look at photos 53-55 around the cable area. You can see the snow and the slope. Of course, there probably will be more snow there that time this year.

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 14
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Joined: Jun 2004
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More memorial day 2004 pics showing trail/snow conditions are on my site

http://homepage.mac.com/tobiasdansen

I miss the mountains... moved back to Holland last month. Highest point around my town is 125 ft


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