Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Glen Pass, Muir Pass, Bishop Pass

Well, now we know Forester will likely be a pain for another month, and that a few hardy PCT'ers have made it as far as the VVR, are there any reports on Glen Pass, Muir, or Bishop Pass?

I don't like promoting other message boards but VVR now has a discussion forum and trail conditions is one of their subject lines. As of a few minutes ago, VVR reports they have had 4 PCT thru hikers with no information on passes conditions. They have reported many difficult stream crossings.

<A Href="http://www.edisonlake.com/forums/index.php">VVR Message Board<A>

Sorry about your feelings about other message boards. It's not like I'm trying to draw attention away from here. I'm just trying to get some general information on snow conditions noeth and south and the VVR was one of the options I could think of. I didn't know they had a message board. I've been checking out the PCT page for weeks to see what news without luck.
Would you be so kind as to tell me how to work your vvr message board link? Many thanks.

My apologies if I mislead but my comments were not directed toward you. I personally do not want to promote other message boards out of respect to Doug and others that have spent many hours making this the great resource it is.

VVR's message board is only a few weeks old and unfortunately is down today.

If you are asking about how to create the link, see the thread entitled <A href="http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=003089">How to Post</A>

WARNING, LONG POST. I got this via email from the PCT-L. It was written by a PCT hiker who is already past MAMMOTH!! Below is his text, not any of my personal knowledge.

"Email Post by David and Michele"

Today being ray day seems an appropriate time to be posting a conditinos report for the Sierra.
First, a disclaimer. The conditions will change (the report is up to 15 days outdated) and my memory may be incorrect due to stupidity, altitude etc. Our equipment and mountaineering experience may be different from normal.

Background
Michele and I (Dave) entered the sierras on 1 June at kennedy meadows, carrying 11 days food and planning to see how far we could get. We hiked looselty with freebird until whitney portal where he exited to begin a planned flipflop. thereafter we hiked with Mr Roboto, who we'd met at KM and all agreed to team up once the snow got significant.

Summary
We made it to VVR in 11 days, then 2 days more to mammoth after a nero and a zero at VVR (which is an amazing, fantastic place that we can't speak highly enough of). The sierras are therefore passable to correctly equiped, skilled parties. The trail was 90% snow free from KM to Whitney Portal. Thereafter around 30% snow free until Mammoth. Snow conditions are hard/icy until 10-11am (refreezing above 10k FT after 5pm). Snow level minimal below 9k FT, near constant above 10k FT annoying in between as insufficient for x-country travel but enough to make trail-following difficult. Add 1k FT to these heights for S slopes and subtract 1k FT for N slopes. The snow softens 10-11am to give frequent postholing in the afternoon, There is extensive sun cupping, usually 6-12" deep although up to 3 feet deep approaching mammoth. River fords were often on snow bridges above 10k FT, others presented no problems. Evolution was mid calf deep only, Bear was knee deep. Mono was waist deep but short, silver was waist deep and also short.

Navigation was by major features (mountaineering style) above 10k ft, by trail below 9k FT, and by blind luck in between.

Passes in order of difficulty (hardest first) were Mather, Glen, Forrester, Pinchot, Muir, Seldon.

We were not the first hikers through - Squeaky left KM on 23 May arrived in VVR 30 May.

Equipment: We used 6 point crampons, cassin ghost axes, Garmin foretrex GPS preloaded with More-than-a-mile waypoints. We wore trail runners rather than boots. We have both suffered some nerve damage (minor frostnip) to our toes leading to a loss of sensation. Mr Roboto had instep crampons and a real steel headed ice axe which was much better for cutting the huge row of steps across forrester. Toll for using these is 1 beer.

Weather. Days 1-7 were clear and sunny with patchy pm clouds. Days 8 & 9 were cloudy with light rain/snow (1" fresh snow on Seldon). Day 10 was sunny. Temperatures bottomed at 10-15F overnight at 12k FT.

Other comments.
1 The sierras were incredibly beautiful and wild. We saw only 2 other people - one 2 hrs out of KM, the other at the woods creek junction who'd hiked in for a day.
2 We had to hiked very long tough days, but it was worth it. We averaged around 1.2mph.
3 There were absolutely no mosquitoes.
4 The conditions were not nearly as bad as people speculated in advance. THe postholing was not too bad if you got the snow over with in the morning, the passes were not particularly steep (Mather was the only one where we'd have roped up if we had it, and then because of soft chossy snow), the fords weren't as deep, the navigation not as hard, .... Most importantly, VVR was open (in fact, it now opens in April!).
5 The hardest thing was timing tyo get over passes before posthole hell started at 11am and to set up the next pass for an early ascent the next day. As a result we had 4 nights at over 11.5kFT; this is debilitating.
6 We used bear canisters the whole way and managed to get 20lb of food into each, and carried an additional 10lb for the first 2 days. BEtween 2 of us we ate 50lb of food and were still hungry.
7 Finally, special shanks to Tom Reynolds for his immense help in discussing snow and water conditions. Almost everyone else we spoke to would spend hours listing the problems. Tom was unusual in devoting his efforts to finding solutions. It was largely through his influence that we entered so early, in an effort to ensure the fords were all manageable. This appeared a successful strategy.

I'll send a second mail detailing each day and route.

Dave & Michele.

Second email with more specifics on the passes and their route.

Disclaimer as for previous email. This is our route which doesn't make it right or good. It did get us through tho'. There's almost as many typos as there was snow. Hope this is of some interest/use to people.

Day 1: Kennedy Meadows to 1.5mi after 10,540 saddle c. 20mi
No snow until 9k FT
10,300 false saddle snowed in, trail was just after saddle goin up the ridge to the right.
10,540 saddle descended 250FT slightly to the right to hit the bottom switchback.
Trail thereafter clear. Camped at around 9-9.5k FT.

Day 2: To poison meadow. c. 20mi
Lots of snow after trail pass but could still see switchbacks. Saddle above poison meadow obvious; the drainage pulls you that way naturally.

Day 3: To just after Guyot Creek.
Cottonwood pass all snowed in - the trail is obvious at the pass itself. We lost the trail by chicken spring lake but crossed the outlet and headed straight up the side of the ridge to intersect the trail again at a switchback. We then aimed for the ridge (large rocks at left on ridge with nice views) which the trail travels along for c. 100FT before traversing off.
Siberia pass - we headed up the ridge for the low point where the trail traverses off on the other side heading to the right (as you aproach the ridge) - it was clear enough to see trail just over the ridge. Others got a bit lost here.
Then we got hopelessly lost and descended to little Rock Creek. Mr Roboto did the same (independently). Freebird followed the sound of a wood thrush (I kid you not!) and found the trail the whole way. He had an uncanny 6th sense for the trail.
On the PCT crossing of rock creek there are lots of logs that can be used- we forded the first one after the waterfall which was about 0.5mi too early so had to bushwhack down the other side of the creek to find trail. There is a 90 degree bend in the river (by a small cliff on the NW bank) which is not on the maps - the 90 degree bend on the maps is further downstream from the first one you meet.
The ascent up to Guyot creek was on clear snow free switchbacks.

4 to just before forrester. 14mi
Easy climb up through Guyot pass, no major snow. Guyot flat ok, then lost trail in a broad snow covered plateau but refound it by heading to our right for the traverse to crabtree meadows. The trail was clearer hear; we forded Whitney creek in the meadows rather than at the real ford, and travelled downstream till we hit the PCT. Then we had a snow free ascent to Sandy (snowy!) meadows. Thereafter it was continual snow.
We lost the trail goin into Wallace but it was an obvious drainage with an easy crossing at the trail.
Wright creek was also easy. Found and lost trail many times goign to tyndall, but lakes provided a reference point. Tyndall was an easy ford (could have used a flaky snowbridge) tho I dropped one of my lighttrek trekking poles and it was gone instantly :-(
Then headed due N up to the plateau and headed across it to the forest, right through the middle up to a rounded ruidge ahead N. We traveresed/ascended to the R of the ridge and camped on a small bare spot up there.

5 To just before glen
Ski mountaineers pass was obvious and relatively snow free but I hate scree so we elected (actually, Mr R wasn't given a vote!) to go over Forrester. The pass is obvious from miles away, and we could see the switchbacks coming in from the R about a quarter of the way down the avalanche chute. It was an easy snow ascent up the lower, snow covered switchbacks. Just at the point as the gradient and flaky snow surface approached the crampon limit, we reached clear switchbacks up to the snow chute. I cut steps across this (there was already a set of steps on the direct 'scott wiklliamson' line up to the top, but I couldn't assess the cornice from below so didn't want to chance a reversal). The switchbacks on the other side were clear, apart from the last 6 feet which was a solid wall of snow so we scrambled up the rocks. Descent was intialy by glissade through soft, postholey snow.Lots of snow on the N side, bubbs creek was snowed over. Centre basin creek was an easy ford. The snow lessened at 10k FT tyhrough vidette meadows, with clear switchbacks up initially towards Glen, then lost of snow around the creek crossing (can't remember which one!) and an endless ascending traverse into the glen pass drainage.

6 To just after pinchot. 18mi.
We could make out the switchbacks under the snow up to the pass. We climbed up the snow from the L, and just to the L of the switchbacks, then traversed left to a rock back for 100ft of ascent, then back R across to a few clear switchbacks until we hit a snowfield just belwo the pass, where I cut steps across and up to the pass.
The descent was easier than some had suggested, traversing down and R, to a faint ridge where we could see the edge of a switchback, then straight down the ridge to clear switchbacks 500FT below.
Thereafter the trail was buried. There was a good log bridge across the Rae Lakes ford and at dollar lake, tho we had to chip the ice layer off these first. We made it out of the snow before posthole hell and had a fast descent to the wonderfully thick air at woods creek. We asecnded and hit snow at 9500FT, solid by 10k FT all the way to Pinchot. The snow was refreezing hard at 5pm easing our ascent up pinchot. We took the line up the ridge to the L of the pass (as you stand and look at it), then cut steps across over to the low point of the pass. The descent was very easy; we snow camped 30mins after the pass in the shelter of some rocks.

7 To deer meadow.
Continuous snow from pinchot to Mather. Toughest pass yet, done in soft lunchtime snow. We came in from the left, ascended the second of 2 small avalanches, cut right to ascend some rocks, straight off the top of these past more rocks, then picked up a line of traversing prints heading R which after 50 FT went straight up to the pass at the very left. THe rest of the pass was heavily corniced and I would not have considered it safe to traverse under.
Great glissading descent to the bowl, then around the N side of the lakes to find the golden staircase (aided by skiers tracks). A few patches of snow on the staircase, and LOTS of water pouring down it. Some small washouts. Snow free at deer meadow, with fresh bear tracks.

8 To Muir
Easy cruise to Bishop pass trail tho 2 avalanches have made short sections problematic. Snow more prevalent from 9k, continuous 9.5k, but we followed the creek and often found patches of trail. Easy ascent to Muir. Naturally we didn't stay in the hut because that's not allowed, even if its snowing (which it was).

9 to Can't remember where :-)
Easy descent down muir, walked straight across Wanda, then followed lakes and rivers into the valley. Found clear switchbacks at 10.8kFT with enought trail to follow. Lots of avalanches over the trail with snow patches to 8k FT. Evolution ford easy - crossed 20 yds upstream from trail, across to where a branch/tree is dipping into the water.

10 To Bear dam diversion trail
Trail clearish to Senger creek then lost it so followed round into the natural drainage from seldon up Sallie Keys creek. Went to the R side of lakes up to the Pass; a few tiny bits of switchback appeared near the top but almost all snow. Beautiful pass, with lovely easy descent. Went L of 1st lake, then L of ridge on W of 2nd lake. Forded W fork of bear creek on log bridge, snow patches but could make out trail increasingly until main ford which was easy at the trail - knee deep. Alternatively 300yds downstream there is a wide slow area, or 30yds down of that are some potential log bridges. Little snow thereafter but trail often underwater.
11 To VVR. Easy ascent up ridge, then lots of snow as we traversed to N side. Snow down to 8k FT in the trees and trail very hard to follow.

VVR Ferry was not running so we walked the trail. The ferry should be running within a few days; even if its not its well worth the walk. They can ferry you back to the trail in a small motorboat if the water level is still too low for the main boat.

A few words on VVR, since there seems some controversy on the trail about it. We were treated incredibly well, given fantastic food in hiker sized portions, and prices were extremely reasonable. We've just paid more for a smaller breakfast in Mammoth than we paid in VVR. They are the only place in the Sierra that was prepared to guarantee being open (try getting a commitment from Reds or Tuolumne!) even tho they have to use ATVs and snowmobiles to get all staff and supplies into the resort; the road was still shut when we were there. It is a truely amazing place.

12 - Zero at VVR

13 - VVR- Fish creek bridge.
Mono creek fords were bigger than anything previous (much hotter weather) but still easier than they looked. Silver creek has some objective danger but was easy - just hug the rocks!
Silver pass was snowed in from 9-10k - we were almost caught out bu a falst pass 150ft below the real one; the real silver pass is 90 degrees to your right and up a bit when you think you've got to the top and are looking at a nearby, small, round lake. Descent was easy but we didn't lose the snow till fish creek bridge.

14- Fish creek bridge to halfway along mammoth side trail.
THought this would be an easy day, but everything apart from S facing slopes were in snow, and the side trail to mammoth was completely snowed in. It was constant GPS all the way from the PCT, and at 6.30pm we quite for the night just a mile from the trailhead.

15 to Mammoth trailhead , with no sign of trail at all. The trailhead is closed due to CO2 danger, so you have to walk a short way down the road, but there was enough traffic for us to Yogi a ride from some tourists.

Motel 6 in Mammoth $55+tax weekdays, $72 wekends, next to post office, free bus round town, free net at library. Great place. Reds is shut (est opening 6/29), Tioga/Tuolumne also shut (locals don't believe they will get the pass clear this year at all!).

It was one of the most amazing, memorable experiences of our lives. Now we have to go out and repeat again for another 200 miles :-)

Feel the fear. Do it anyway.
Dave & Michele.

It is important to note that Dave and Michele have a lot of experience in this kind of travel. YMMV.

Eric - Any idea what dates that trip report refers to?

Thanks!

He states they left Kennedy Meadows on June 1st and it took 11 days to VVR, 1 day layover there, and 2 days to Mammoth. That puts them in mammoth on the 14 th if my math is correct.

Any more updates?

Thanks

paul