Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Route Advice to Mt. Whitney Summit

I'm new to the board, but hope you all can answer some questions for me.

My husband and I are planning on hiking Mt. Whitney late July or early August. We're from Colorado and have each done our share of 14ers, so there shouldn't be altitude problems that we haven't encountered and overcome before. We also have experience in routefinding and orienteering.

We have become a little disenchanted with the idea of climbing by the main Whitney Route, (although it is still a possibility) so I have looked at a couple of other routes. My source is "Mount Whitney, the Complete Trailhead-to-Summit Hiking Guide" by Paul Richins, Jr. I've also checked the Inyo National Forest Website for info.

OK, on to the question...
The two other routes that have caught my eye are Routes #4 and #8, if you have the book. Route 4 is the Circumnavigation Route from Whitney Portal, to the Whitney-Russell Col, to Guitar Lake and up the John Muir Trail to the Summit (12 miles one-way). Route 8 is from Horseshoe Meadow, up New Army Pass, Soldier Lake to Crabtree Pass, and up Trail Crest to the Summit (18 miles one-way).

My questions are:
Which route would you recommend for a one or two night backpacking trip?
Why?
What is the situation with Marmots at the higher elevations on these routes (ie. is there a place to stash a pack at Trail Crest?)
Are bear canisters required in these areas?
What is the permit situation (for Route 4, the trailhead is Whiney Portal, would I have to apply for the Whitney Lottery)?

My husband is also interested in the Mountaineers Route, so I'll pose this question here as well. He has extensive Mountaineering experience. I have only done a handful of Class 3 climbs (12000-14000ft). What are normal conditions in the couloir in late summer? And what is the exposure (I fight mild vertigo, but have the ability to do Class 3)?

Basically, I'm looking for an enjoyable trip that will fit within our time constraints.

Ideas?

Thanks,
AmyB

You are going to have to be awfully strong backpackers to do these trips in two nights. If you choose the Horseshoe Meadows route there is a bit of trailed shortcut you might consider, it cuts at least 3/4 mile from the trip. When you make the first stream crossing as you leave the trailhead, the SF of Cottonwood Creek, look for another trail going off on your left a within 200' of the stream. This trail is less sandy and more eye appealing. The funny thing this trailed short cut isn't on the Cirque Peak map but is on the trailhead information board, go figure. Once you gain the South Fork Lake you stay on the south side of the lakes to the western most lake then cut north to the trail.

To answer your questions:

1. I have done either and both are on my around to it list, I own Richins, Jr.'s book too.

2a. The marmots are around but they become more plentiful from Guitar Lake to Trail Camp. The ones on the summit and at Trail Camp are totally habituated.

2b. There is a pack drop as you gain Trail Crest with room for at least 30+ packs.

3. Approved Bear Resistant Canisters are required on the routes you mentioned.

4. Both routes are not a part of the Main Trail Lottery. You call the reservation office 6 months before your entry date and request a permit. Check the Inyo website for the 2003 trailhead quotas.

There is a Trail Crest Exit permit you will need, the reservation office will tell you this, there is nothing you have to say to them. This how they control people from other trailheads exiting on the Main Trail, the quota last year was 33, with 19 reservable/day.

4. I haven't done the MR, again on my around to it list. I sure a lot of the regulars will be willing to give you beta on that one.

Good luck,

Bill

Last summer I took ten boy scouts and leaders on the New Army Pass Route (Route #8 in Paul Richins book) It was an incredible trip (we hardly saw two people from cottonwood lakes on) but we took 7 days to pack it and a good portion of the hike there is no established trails and is very strenuous. Please be careful in Paul Richins book the part listed as mile 14.8 to 15.6 (upper crabtree lake to trail crest) is extremely steep (no trail) and very loose gravel. We had a problem trying to get up and over this part and eventually had to reroute down crabtree lakes to crabtree meadows and up and over from guitar lake (John Muir trail). We contacted Richins after the hike and mentioned the book maybe did'nt describe that one section good enough but he stood by his story it wasn't that difficult(I would disagree). It took an extra 12 miles. Moutaineers route is probably your best and is definetly doable in 2 days. Good luck.

I think it's a good idea to avoid the main trail if you enjoy the feeling of wilderness. I can describe 2 routes I took, which are similar to the 2 you picked.

1. Cottonwood lakes -> Langley -> arc pass -> mt Whitney -> Whitney portal
Paul and I climbed Langley in 1 day and spent the night on top, exhausted. Day 2 we descended a scree & talus filled chute NW of "the major general" to Rock Creek and went north to Arc Pass and down to a tiny campsite on the shore of Consultation Lake. I almost got Paul with a loose rock descending Arc Pass. Day 3 we climbed the main trail to Whitney, hiked out the main trail and drove home to San Diego by about 4 am. This was fun! It was the summer of 1979.
2. Fritz, John, and I left Whitney portal late, after driving up from San Diego. It was dark when we started up North Fork Lone Pine Creek and I became separated from the other 2 and camped above lower Boy Scout Lake after midnight. I got up early and climbed as fast as I could, hoping to catch them. I went by Iceberg Lake, through whitney-Russell pass, and up the north slope to Mt Whitney without finding them. After spending the night on top I hiked down to Whitney portal and spent the night in the bushes by the parking lot. Fritz and John came down the next day. This was probably in 1980.
Neither of these routes would aggravate anybody's vertigo, but they had their tough spots. I'm partial to the scenery in the Army Pass region, but Paul and I needed a car shuttle (with Fritz's car) to get back to Horseshoe meadow from Whitney Portal.
You can be fined for not having a bear canister in the 'mt whitney zone' even if you are just passing through.

Amy,

I forgot a website for Trip #8 in my previous post, http://www.stowell.org/whitney99/

Good luck again,

Bill

Amy,
I am a 49 year old male who has done the mountaineers route in a day many times and I have done the PCT/John Muir trail route from Horseshoe Meadows (HSM) to Whitney Portals once in 1996. I was able to easily get to Whitney Portals in two days from HSM but I spent the first night at HSM so I could get a good early start. My first night on the trail was just past the ranger cabin at Crab Tree below Timberline Lake. You can't camp at Timberline Lake. The next day after an 0630 start I made it to the summit about 1030 and I was down to the Portals by 1500. It was in late July and I traveled very light, no tent, no stove and just a bivy liner to sleep in. At that time you did not need bear canisters or a special Whitney permit to come down the trail. I forgot to mention that I started from the lower (south) parking lot at HSM and went over Cottonwood Pass. I like that way better than going up over New Army Pass. Your choice.
The mountaineers route is great! By the time you go in late July or August the use trail is very well defined. If you do it in two days I would try to spend the night just below Upper Boy Scout Lake (UBSL). There is a nice little sheltered spot in some trees by the stream that comes out of UBSL. If you like 3rd class then take the rock route just to the left of the chute (couloir) above Iceberg Lake. It goes a lot better than that loose, lousy chute. Eventually you end up back in the chute but at less of an angle than the lower part. At the notch at the top of this chute I like to take the first gully to the left and head up to the summit. Some folks traverse past this gully to the back side of Whitney and then come up the back side to the summit. This can be very dangerous if it is icy and many climbers have been fatally injured crossing here. In heavy snow years this traverse can require crampons, an ice axe, and complete confidence in one's ability to arrest. The gully can be a little tricky to get into when the snow is all gone but once you are in it, it is nice third class to the top. Many people like to exit it to the right side at the top. I like to turn left at the two triangular shaped overhanging rocks and climb up to the ridge coming out from the comode on top. A little exposed but great climbing!
To directly answer one of your questions. I would choose the mountaineers if I only had two days. Going from HSM to Whitney and back would take three days minimum. Otherwise you will need a ride from the Portals back to HSM. Couloir conditions above Iceberg Lake depend on the year, but usually by August all the snow is gone. Check the board again in July to see what the conditions are. Good luck. You'll love it no matter which way you go. -wdr

I did a similar trip to Route 8 last September. I wouldn't do it for a 2 night backpacking trip unless you really plan on getting a workout! The trail up Rock Creek to Sky Blue Lake is nice, but after Sky Blue you are basically on your own up to Crabtree Pass (It's not hard to get around though, it's just that the trail vanishes). From Crabtree Pass we went all the way down to Upper Crabtree Lake. Once down there we didn't like the look of the climb up to Trail Crest so we ended up going around Mt. Hitchcock to the ranger station, Guitar lake, etc. to get to Trail Crest. Going directly to Trail Crest is a steep climb with no trail and we didn't want to try it with our heavy packs on. I guess if I were to go there again I would look for a way to Trail Crest from Crabtree Pass that doesn't include climbing all the way down to the lake (maybe climb the ridge to the right?), or camping in the area and making a light day hike to Whitney from there. The trip through the Crabtree Lakes was nice though, and one of the lakes had a beautiful sandy beach!
Have fun!
-dan

I did a similar route last year. Instead of Cottonwood Lakes, I went Cottonwood pass. The trail takes you to the PCT there. It was fantastic. Cottonwood Pass isn't a killer, either. Camped the 1st night by a meadow, 2nd at Guyot Creek, 3rd just above Guitar Lake. A wonderful trip.

Wow, Thanks so much for your advice, everyone. I'll let you know what we decide. Whatever way we choose, it should be an incredible trip.

Just curious, has anyone else done the circumnavigation route?? (We're kind of leaning toward this because of our time constraints and trailhead issues- one car.)

Thanks Again,
Amy

Amy,
In 2001 3 of us summitted via Rt 8 in Ritchie's book. We did it in 4 days, with a layover day at 12,200 below Crabtree pass. As others have commented, there is no trail above Sky Blue but it's not tough to find your way. From the lake at 12,200 up to Discovery Pinnacle the going is much tougher. You chose between a slog through the scree or up through a large boulder field. Either way it's tough with a pack. Once you reach the Discovery pinnacle area be careful coming down onto the main trail as there is lots of loose rock that could injure someone on the trail. Again tough to negotiate with a pack. Paul recommends contouring below the pinnacle although we could not find that route. Personnally I was a bit uncomfortable on that portion of the route not for my safety but for hikers coming up the main trail. That said, we made it safe and sound and the trip was beautiful. The area around Miter valley and Sky Blue lake is spectacular.

This past year we did the High Sierra Trail from the west side and that was equally cool but at 70+ miles more like a 5-6 day adventure. Good luck, I too want to give that Mountaineers route a try sometime.
Doug