Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Split Mountain

I will be climbing Split Mountain later this month with my son (me 56, him 20) and would appreciate any information on trailhead access and trip reports you would be willing to share. I'm especially interested in which route to take to the trailhead and the difficulty of the Class 3 section. I've climbed Whitney, Langley, Shasta and St. Helens but not sure I've done any Class 3 climbing.

Many thanks in advance for your assistance.

Hollywood53

Hollywood,

The easiest route goes from Red Lake up to the saddle between Split and Prater and then up to the summit. This is all class 2, no class 3. It is tedious and requires stamina, just like picking your way up Monitor Ridge to the top of the crater on Mt St Helens. I have seen considerable rockfall off Split on the face to the right of the St Jean Couloir so I would not hug the mountain there on my way up to the saddle.

I have not been up there in a number of years, but my last time up the trail to Red Lake was somewhat of a bushwack.

I have only approached the TH via McMurry Meadows and have benefited from 4WD with high clearance. I brought along a shovel (from my Baja days) and it was useful to help remodel the "road" in a few cases.

If I were to go today, I would seriously consider the (possibly illegal) shortcut approach to the TH from the Tinemaha Campground. To get an excellent map of the shortcut go to SummitPost.org and see the section on Split under Mountains and Rocks (maintained by Bob Burd). The map is on the first page of the section Photos and Images. I know others on this Board have done the shortcut and might comment wish on it. It goes through private property and the owner does not want you on it some say. For a day hike I would consider approaching the TH from Tinemaha Camground by mountain bike.

By the way, the Red Lake/Split outing will offer absolutely stunning views and is really worth the effort.

Jim

Our Alpine Club had a Split Mountain outing in early June this year. We took a 4WD with high clearance, and it was absolutely necessary! I bumped the bottom a few times even with that car, but perhaps that's due to my inexperience on dirt roads and with anything larger than a Corolla.

Since we had extra time the morning of the approach to Red Lake, we tried the dubious shortcut from Tinemaha campground described on SummitPost. With daylight and a bit of navigational sense, it's quite easy to find the way and you only have to worry about the questionable legality of the route.

The trail itself is a bit overgrown in places, but it's decent overall. On the descent through the dense shrubbery--you'll recognize the thickets when you get there--it's easy to take an offshoot that leads to nowhere, so be careful!

The couloir south of the Prater Split pass was still covered during our trip, so we took that instead of the standard route. I imagine it's a scree nightmare plagued with rockfall now, so the standard route is probably a better choice. I agree with the class two rating on that, assuming it was more of what we encountered above the couloir. Have fun!

Thanks Jim and Hamik ...........a couple of final questions: Are there any fish in Red Lake and any drinkable water above the lake?


Hollywood53

I remember snow fields above the lake, which I used to refresh my water, but don't recall flowing water.

As mentioned, the section in "the jungle" (perhaps 1000' feet below the conifer woods) is confusing. There are lots of semi-real-looking herd paths from confused people. If a path starts to fade out, back up and look again. Look for CUT (not just broken) branches in that section. In places the "correct" path is also the stream.

I took an older Subaru Outback (skid plates front and rear) to the trailhead by the normal route... and vowed I will never do that again. AWD was very helpful, but the modest clearance was not really good.

It's class 3 if you choose to avoid the funky talus and climb the high rocks. But the entire trip can be done as bad-footing class 2.

I have taken my 2wd Toyota 4runner in via McMurray Meadow twice so 4wd is not absolutely necessary but high clearance is. I have, however, never tried going back out to McMurray Meadow. Of the two times that I went to Red Lake TH, I went out to Tinemaha campground and the last time directly to the 395. I have no idea how I did it because there must be a dozen dirt road in that area and I got lost a dozen times before being able to find a passage to the 395.

Yeah, especially if you have seven friends pushing you up the snow bank...

Hehe... I forgot to mention that 4wd will be necessary in the winter. That or having 7 friends making tracks and pushing you.

An important note not to overlook. Navigating the jungle was interesting. If, after crossing a small stream, the trail dips downhill - if only for a short distance - then you missed the part where the path is also the stream.

I've been up three times in the past 20 years; do not remember any water above the lake in the late summer. The approach to Red Lake is a hot, southern facing slope, no wind slog, with little water. Start very early if you can.

Thanks for the input from everyone............does anyone know if there are fish in Red Lake?

Hollywood

For the archives, I meant high clearance is necessary, but not 4WD (when there's no snow, anyway).

Hi All:

Just to give an update on my climb of Split Mountain: We spent one night at the Red Lake trailhead (took the shorter way in off 395 by the gravel yard).....not bad but very rocky in some parts, you need good ground clearance.

Left trailhead at 6:30am and arrived Red Lake about noon. Good golden trout fishing in smaller lake and pond below Red Lake. Red Lake as a few VERY large trout (maybe cuttroat?) 20-24 inches long. I hooked one on a small yellow mepps spinner but it broke off as I was using 2 lb line.

The climb from Red Lake to summit was more difficult than others I've done (Whitney, Shasta, Langley and St Helens) due to steepness............7000 ft over 7.5 miles.

All three of us made it to the top.

The views were incredible. Put this on you list.


Hollywood53

COngrats, Hollywood! I agree that Split is one to have on the list and climb! I had a blast up there this past Easter and the view (my first into the backcountry in winter) was completely amazing!

-L