Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board The Whitney Trail is treacherous right now

Three of us (Walter, Jay, and I) were surprised at the snow conditions above Trailside Meadow yesterday. Usually, the snow is nice for step kicking or simply post-holing a little. However, there must have been a very warm spell recently, and the subsequent melt-refreeze created a thick icy layer virtually everywhere--even in the shade. I can't remember experiencing conditions this severe before.

We put crampons on just before the cables. Or rather, Walter and Jay did; I had brought the wrong pair so couldn't use them. I didn't mind the cables so much, but was very nervous for the next 200'. After a few more switchbacks, the others took their crampons off. We were careful crossing the numerous snow patches, and scrambled up on rocks from time to time.

Things didn't get better past Trail Crest, either, although there were a lot fewer snow patches to contend with. Because of the slow going, we turned back at 2 PM in the vicinity of Keeler and Day Needles.

The switchbacks would be even more treacherous this time of day, so we decided to descend the snow chute from Trail Crest. Fortunately, it worked out OK, but there were delicate times. There was some nice plunge-stepping at the top, but farther down we had to kick hard or use ice ax now and then. A few hundred feet was just barely glissadable, and I had to self-arrest a couple of times.

Bottom line is that no one should go up past the cables without REAL crampons and ice ax, and solid experience in using them. Don't descend the snow chute without same, and forget about glissading. These conditions will certainly prevail or get worse, until at least a moderate storm comes to add a thick layer of new snow.

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I don't post as much as I used to, so why this time? Not many people go up these days, and another Mt. Whitney trip (even one that turned out to be "interesting") wouldn't normally help more than a handful. The thing I want to emphasize is that last paragraph above. Weather.com says that the current beautiful weather will continue for at least ten days, so that moderate storm may be a long time coming. And the conditions can only get worse in the meantime.

Bob: sorry I missed you up there. Just posted about the MR and it's about the same. Yuck!

-L

The snow conditions on some of the Onion Valley peaks were similar this past weekend.

Wow..when "Some Guy" posts that it is pretty ugly and that HE was nervous..that's a pretty good endorsement that it must be pretty hairy up there. Can't wait to see some pics..!

I hope it gets better in the next few days.... I do not want to be eating Turkey on Thanksgiving. I was planning on something Freeze Dried.

Those of you who know me from the Sierras also know I never post anywhere, including here on the Whitney Board. And just to reinforce that fact, this is the exception that proves that rule. You primarily don’t see posts from me because I figure I rarely have anything actually worthwhile to contribute. That clearly doesn’t apply to many of the posters here . . . but Bob R did think the pictures of our climb might be useful.

Bob asked Walter and me to join him climbing Whitney this past weekend. But he neglected to bring his camera along to document conditions, so I will attempt to post a working link to the pictures that I took, as he suggested.

Before I scurry back into my hole, however, I must comment on what it’s like to climb with both of these gentlemen. As Bob indicated in his post above, even he could not remember experiencing conditions this severe up there before. That said, watching Bob and Walter handle the many challenges with such skillful aplomb was a rare treat, and I am honored to have been along to experience it.

They executed some amazing moves on many sections of exposed ice (largely minus crampons), and still occasionally managed to gently encourage the least-skilled member of the group to do the same (although somewhat less elegantly!).

Thank you again, Bob and Walter, for a very special experience.

Pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/dunesme/MtWhitneyNov21222009#

(Details will probably show best if you click the ‘Slideshow’ button.)

JayD,

Thanks for sharing your pictures. I enjoy seeing the pictures Bob takes after his trips, but by him forgetting his camera and you posting your pictures, we get to see more shots with Bob in them.

JayD, thanks for the great photo link - and taking the time for the captions. Those are as interesting as the photos. Gives me a completely different perspective from the trail I saw in August.

JayD, I thoroughly enjoyed your slide show, and thanks for captioning all the photos. Good work!

Jay, thanks so much, particularly documenting that interesting chute.

Awesome photos..and great captions! Pic #115 is scary.. As is the one of Bob past the cables (#70).. Looks like the weather was beautiful..but I'm shivering as I page through the photos.

Thanks for taking the time to share them. They are fantastic!

Chris


Love that quote Ken..

Thanks Jay, great photos and captions! Can't wait to post my own here some day...

Hey Jay,
Excellent trip report, very entertaining, nice pics too! Looked interesting up there...

Thank you to each of you for your very kind remar--oh, dang it all, now I've gone and posted again . . .

Oh well, there is a good reason to do so again: please make sure to note the update Bob added earlier this morning to his original message that started this thread:

"I don't post as much as I used to, so why this time? Not many people go up these days, and another Mt. Whitney trip (even one that turned out to be "interesting") wouldn't normally help more than a handful. The thing I want to emphasize is that last paragraph above. Weather.com says that the current beautiful weather will continue for at least ten days, so that moderate storm may be a long time coming. And the conditions can only get worse in the meantime."

Edited by Bob R (11/25/09 05:59 AM)
Edit Reason: Added emphasis


And for those too busy to scroll back up to re-read that "last paragraph", here it is:

"Bottom line is that no one should go up past the cables without REAL crampons and ice ax, and solid experience in using them. Don't descend the snow chute without same, and forget about glissading. These conditions will certainly prevail or get worse, until at least a moderate storm comes to add a thick layer of new snow."

Yep--agreed.

On the other hand, if you DO have "REAL crampons and ice ax, and solid experience in using them," the conditions could be enjoyable. I wish I were climbing this weekend instead of driving to Montana to eat turkey.

Thank you for the trail condition updates, JayD, Laura & Some Guy what's-his-name; I was worried that we were gonna have to wait (with baited breath) until Richard came back from Mexico to get any more updates!

Wow! What beautiful pictures and great captions, Jay! I really felt like I was right there with you!

Thanks for sharing your group's adventure with the rest of us. It was fascinating to finally see so many pictures of Bob R in action--we don't get to see enough (what a good-looking man!). Don't be such a stranger to the board!

Hmm...mayhap you were.

JayD thanks for adding the captions to all the shots.I really like that. BobR thanks for the warnings. The pictures don't do justice to the conditions you describe. That is such valuable info.

Did BobR show your the old China Lake MRG shortcut through the woods on the descent? (I won't tell if Bob won't.)